Mein wahnsinniger Synergy-Eindecker

[Clugh]

The cooling jacketi is a beautiful black anodized edition and fits perfectly between the motor mount and around the finned section of the external case..

[Clugh]

The extremal cooling jacket arrived. It is 63 grams. I also made my own version of a Zerk fitting from k&s brass tubing to lubricate the shaft with light oil. Its .125 inches and feeds a .125 hole in the stuffing box. I started on a radio box because I'm much quicker with the table saw CA birch ply and epoxy, weight wise it will make no different and wood is really easy to work with if I want to mount other improvised tidbits to it. Switches for lights etc. So that's next. I'm not waiting a day to print the box and I'm not paying 50.00 dollar for one because we've been doing them this way for 30 years and it wont hurt anything. I'm simply not going to 3dp everything that goes in the boat. Ill probably print out the servo tray that will fit inside the birch box.

[Clugh]

Since the lead Teflon are not loaded to the very end of the stuffing box I 3dp a nose piece with a 25.4 mm brass bushing insert to align the shaft in the stuffing box at the exit right into the collet. Ill support the last section stuffing box about 4 inches before the motor with the other tbar and lock it there. When I pull the shaft the stuffing box is going to stay perfectly aligned with the motor collet.You see how I sleeved the Anodized aluminum stuffing box with brass tubing to fit snugly and centered in the T-bars bore. You see that the Insane T-bar also gives you some lateral adjustment, which I didn't end up needing coz I'm good..



Regards
Hubert

[Clugh]

2118 ABC Ralph . Thats 2.1 inch diameter propellor with an aspect ratio of 1.8.. With the surface piercing boat prop you also have to look at the rake angle and BAR ( blade area ratio) options to go along with your pitches.The aspect ratios here are 2.3 and 2.4 the rake angle is 22 degrees the BAR is 38%

I hope you understand the numbering system for the ABC propellers

Hubert

[Clugh]

Hi Ralph
Tell Christian the next time he comes to Florida to please bring his boats. I'll bring mine. Ill be down there around august to pick up a real boat as well. In a basic sense the insane is close to finished . It needs a radio box and battery tray and we out! I still plan a few other "gimmicks". I have a twin cat with two hall sensed 45x101's that turn 90 bands.... (90,000) rpm I see the 6 turn 2260;s with ABC 2118's carry the german cats near 200 mph.


Regards
Hubert

[Clugh]

Scratch that. I want continuity in the boat especially if I decide to anodize everything.so I spent the 20 or so dollars for another insane T-bar in T6. l'll add and oil log to the stuffing box and use light weight oil before a run. No grease. That will finalize the .125 wire drive installation. All will be left is to add battery trays and the radio box and we can pull out from the pool in bayern.🤔.... I've had alot to have to calibrate with the 10PX. Telemetry with the XLX2, GPS, and a six axis gyro all had to be configured. Thats an entirely different thread. The battery rules are different between the two bodies so ill have to look deeper into it. NAMBA has a mah maximum allowed while the IMPBA doesn't.

[Clugh]

To support the last part of the log before the motor . ill sit it back 3 or 4 inches from the logs end.. Ill probably draw in broken edges etc. But this is just a rough rendering.

[Clugh]

Everything inserts into one another and butts flush end to end internally The brass insert allows me to use the alignment dowel for the stuffing box and stingers log but still the prop dog 1/4 inch from the end of the strut. The shaft was already cut to butt against the motor shaft and the Teflon bearing was sunk in the stingers log to the depth of the alignment dowel .

[Clugh]

The anodized aluminum pre curved logs,.125 wire, alignment piece and lead Teflon's arrived yesterday from Brent Byers. He triple protects it in shipping with the shafts and logs in a tube then in a pvc pipe then in the padded cardboard box. Very smart because and UPS and FEDEX will damage your items. No lie.

[Clugh]

U is for Mu and that in the graph shows the increase in the permeability of the ferrofluid in the gap and its effect on Eta..

Its clear👀

[Clugh]

And dont tell us it doesn't work...

[Clugh]

[Clugh]

And again ferrofluid closed loop does not need a pump to move from hot to cold. It uses curie and the magnetic field of the motor to do that.

[Clugh]

But none of it is going to beat my artic blast or direct gap Cooling. I dont know how low it can go. This was just a 2 second duration. 🙈🙉🙊

[Clugh]

I have a gear driven pump, that will probably flow alot more, in hand that uses a 700 sized dc motor so you know the size and weight possibilities. Now what I need since it was salvaged is a graduated cylinder to see what it flows and make determinations if is worth the time based on its additional weight and power draw. Its a crap shoot because a TEC cooler will draw power as well. The other thing is reducing through plumbing drag with reduction of barbed fittings etc. If you use ferruled fitting you can increase the positive flow. Is that possible with a soft flexible line? I don't think so. To remove the shoulder with a barbed fitting a thick hard walled tubing needs to be reamed to the depth and butt up with the tubing's ID that is the same as the orifice of the barb. That eliminates the shoulder and you get no turbulence or eddies in the flow in those area. The idea is always to get more water in and out of the boat.


Regards
Hubert

[Clugh]

What im considering is a tec cooler on the block to cool the incoming water then circulate it.



@ Ralph heres a pump run by the TX that uses a 28x60mm motor and here is the flow. I haven't calculated it but I dont think that will dissipate the kind of heat generated in a SAW run but it may stabilize things if the boat is stopped or just sitting in the water after a run. To be fair real calculations need to be made. Ill know more after I consult with Ferrotec No matter to use it in conjunction with a prop blast or a hull mounted water pickup will need a check valve inline somewhere to make it work correctly as a supplemental active cooling water source .

Here are the spec on the pump

Voltage from 3 to 6 volts
- Voltage: 3 V Pumping flow: 1.1L / one minute Pumping flow: 300ml / one minute
- Voltage: 6 V Pumping flow: 1.8L / one minute Pumping flow: 600ml / one minute
- Pump & motor length: 60mm
- Pump & motor length including the tubing fittings: 72mm
- Diameter: 28mm
- Wire length: 200mm
- Weight: 72 grams


Is it worth its weight in wattage dissipation? calculations are needed. And again Christian is going to integrate a small GDPDP enuf to fit inside the outrunner and flow enuf of what from what source in the plane? It would have to be closed loop with an effective heat exchanger. A radiator with a fan so to speak. id like to see the entirfe concept laid out not just the motor cross section. But anyhow you see what you have here in flow and the size of the pump. Is it feasible in a 20kW plane pulling over a half a horse in waste..?



Hubert

[Clugh]

I will definitely bring in more water than just the rudder pickup. I have a Insane prop blast mount but hate how that looks hanging off the ass of the mono. I think I'll do a dual transom mount on the left side of the boat and a double pickup rudder blade. Hopefully that will help counteract the rudder to the right that will be shortened at some point. The turn fin will also have to be sharpened quite a bit or might be replace with a knife grinded fin made of thin spring steel. Will cut you no doubt. This is not a toy.

Here is some of the late JA's still spring turn fins. This is real boat hardware. Thin sharp and strong!

I haven't forgot you Shifu.

Hubert

[Clugh]

In between the motor mount rear cross member and the first rib is about 68mm so we went with the 56x65 water cooling jacket. I went with the anodized black because silver is so common and I want to look at something a lill different under the hood. I'm actually considering purchasing an anodization set up. Anodized hardware on the black hull would be different.

👀Für das abonnierte Mitglied in Deutschland ist hier diese Adresse.👀

Water Jacket for 56mm Motor : 56mm x 65mm Long | Offshore Electrics

I need to get the new lathe up and running so I can stop purchasing things like this. It may make sense to make a cooling jacket from high temperature epoxy an CF. that would be much lighter. You can improve the P/W ration be decreasing the boats weight which, with >10000 mah cells, will be heavier than any gas boat or nitro setup in the same hull.


Hubert

[Clugh]

Trim tabs are installed.

[Clugh]

Small parts arrived from insane.