Mein wahnsinniger Synergy-Eindecker

[Clugh]

I wish I could find supercaps with no heat shrink. Id really like to pot the PCB and enclose the entire bank in a sealed enclosure then liquid cool them directly. The heat shrink is an insulator and get s in the way of the idea.

I'll likely have the use SMD hybrid caps like these for something like that this bank is still about 2 and a half castle banks. most would be more than satisfied with just it .
.





but it would work if the circuit board is fully submerged it the potting material, A silicone based thermally conductive one make sense. If not that the high temp epoxy i have would work and its crystal clear. And stable to 180C. The supercaps disadvantage is they cannot handle 180C like the best electrolytics More that 70 C can get you into trouble with the Etti bank.. But they cant be in a cryogenic mix that's too cold for them also.. make no mistake about it though...If you worried about fires or cap explosion with the MLCC that will not happen so I'm still planning to play around with those and the tantalums. What I'd really like to do for common electrolytics is build a balanced bank like APD.



@ Ralph I know you are reading here. U did not pay much attention to the small details PC!.The APD PCB's are 8 layers of pure copper what's a YGE 320 Ralph 4? The ir of the 320 is SIGNIFICANTLY HIGHER dc man... Even etti marine esc is much lower and can do 32khz. You need that to run a low induction machine with stability. I showed you the formula and how it all works some time ago on Heli freaks Ralph. There's other things you can do besides dial in higher PWM frequencies to find commutation stability. But you know now the problem is your field at heavy loads not PWM. You also haven't quality controlled the PM!!! Come on bruh.

you gotta qc the bulk china pm



Hope you understand....
Hubert

[Clugh]

The six hour print on this gurl has begun. I always print at a minimum of dynamic quality 0.15.. We will see how the embossing goes.

Castle makes it easy with the XLX2 mounting template. think the holes are on a 40.2 x 46 rectangular hole pattern .

[Clugh]

The other things I ordered from them along with 2 supercap banks are for a twin SAW project with the BB struts..

The rudder is 90mmx30mm.The rudder standoff is 100mm (3.93 inches)

[Clugh]

Its an intelligent cap bank for safety

[Clugh]

Do the math . The two castle banks available are 1680 uf and 2240 uf. So yes you can tell the boys with the concave hull the etti pack I posted is equivalent to 595 of the 1680 castle cap banks and 446 of the 2240 uf banks. 2240uf is only .00224 of a farad
.

That said I'll have to grab a few. 2 would support 12s lipo. A farad at 22.5 volts is alot of potential energy in such a small package.

Its something other American sailors in FE may wanna start thinking about.iI proposed it on the German boating forum 6 years before they hit the market. The few Germans that spoke up would rather eat duck if i can recall verbatim what "Mist" said. Yall boys be smarter and take advantage of the lithium tech. Electrolytics are only popular because they are cheap the mlcc has lower esr than electrolytics and a tantalum capacitor is much more stable and considered mil grade if there is such a thing.I may put together a few mlcc banks to share the ideas. Maybe WE should run ripple test with various banks. No one's done that that I'm aware of. Let's trend.


At Ralph u got the link...
Its all good about Anakin and his imaginary speed alliance with JAGS at the row pool in Tatooine. You know HOW IT GOES... from the powerditto days. U simply can't tell the smartest luke AZ with the 50 mph Styrofoam boats sporting 7.2 volts of nickel cadmium sub c cells anything in 2024...

What a strange German. Even more so than you..knowing both personalities I could have predicted the split.



Thanks for your continued interest. I suppose it would also really be well suited to get alot of capacitance in a high current speedplane.

Hubert

AKA "POCBOY"

[Clugh]

But still in 6s supercap is 1Farad (1,000,000 uf) ...that's the difference between it and electrolytics. Thats alot of punch. A 1 farad electrolytic cap is the size of a tennis ball can. and probably weighs 2.5 pounds! This cap bank is 4.25x1.48x.78.inches. 👀



Its equivalent to 595 cap banks from castle creations in parallel. Do the FE experts on OSE an IW realize that? I dont see alot on these packs installed in anything....

I dont recommend it for novice. It can knock you down.




Regards
Hubert

[Clugh]

35 volt 4700 microfarad ETTI Marine cap bank. Much more capacitance and more parallel caps than the 8s castle bank.. If you buy 2 then you can hook them up in series for HV setups later and they will support up 16s lipo (70 volts). If you build your own cap bank its better to space them out more so they can breathe.

[Clugh]

Inverter tray to mount in between the rails jus aft on the motor under the cowl air scoop. I made it for dual XLX2's on a parallel wound 2030 Neu .👀

[Clugh]

I need to 3dp a waterproof case and Tbar mounts for the gyro at the cg and inverter which ill try to place directly under the cowls ram air scoop at the second Tbar...

[Clugh]

All I need now is a carbon fiber plate. I can glue wooden anchors to the inside of the rails the load them with treaded inserts. Then I can remove or insert the tray easily. The tray will give me a nice long platform that will allow me to adjust the battery forward or aft for the optimal cg. Depending on the cell configuration some cell may have to sit out side the rails so I may glue in some secondary battery trays outside the rails we will have to see how that goes. Some times you change the approach as you build the boat. It depends on what is thrown at you. The prop on the boat is a AB x455 ground to 52mm. Anytime you do that you increase the aspect ratio so it may be around 1.8. I envision the pushrod for power trim exits directly above the stinger in between its mounts. To have the alignment I may have to print some type of capstan behind the servo. It can run with push pull cables turned perpendicular to the deck to feed a vertically mounted push and pull capstan that also push rodded to the trim. The entire stinger could pivot if you went with a square drive flex setup with a prop shaft and ferrule set up through the stinger. the log would float at the nose of the stinger. It can be done that way . You really would need to load the stinger with some type of high wear sleeve or busing at the pivot point because over time the Aluminum will break down mechanically as a bearing surface.

The servo could have just been mounted on its side but I wanted some visual uniformity there instead then deal with the necessary linkage to make it work like I envision.

[Clugh]

They hardware is really good stuff but it comes in rough with no broken edges or fasteners . So I've done that and added the fasteners. I will polish all the hardware out. Seems like no one does that any more but we've always polished the hardware to a mirror finish and sharpened the turn fin and rudder without fail. I started the process with wet/dry 220 to clean up all the tooling marks. Im not complaining because the struts were not expensive nor the shipping from Sweden. It took 2 weeks to get here I suppose.


Well we didnt always polish... we... Kenneth Stone, Curtis Samuel and I did some experimenting with glass beading the entire prop 30 years ago. Kenny did them for us. Now in 2024 thinking back id glass bead the suction side and polish the thrust side. The other thing you can do is prep the backside of the prop in a way to induce leading edge cavitation with a chamfered edge. I met Curtis and Kenny and became also a dedicated buyer of Andy Brown in 1990! My first rigger was a mongoose with a picco 67. I just sold that motor about 6 years ago for over 400.00 damn nice one with the metal carb. Kenny blueprinted it.


Sorry if I ramble on I'm just thinking to myself aloud.

[Clugh]

BTW for a twin cat project I received from Sweden Bengt Björkhage hardware. 2x's 45 square bottom struts.

[Clugh]

The LiFe receiver battery is underneath the servo tray. The receiver and GPS sit in a removable pocket so you can load and unload the receiver battery. XLX2 has a BEC but I don't know if ill use it. The gyro will mount remotely at the cg. The radio box recess fits a 2mm thick glass with 5mm radiused corners. Its ordered and should drop right in. The brand new never used 10px screen was accidentally cracked. 5 weeks turnaround time at Futaba ( Huntsville AL.) No choice.... touch screen lost functionality. When I get it back I bet Ill have to reconfigure everything.



TTYL
Hubert

[Clugh]

After breaking the edges It snapped together tightly and bonded nicely.

[Clugh]

Im producing these prints on a 300.00 3dp I've tuned a bit. Here is the proof its just a basic ender 3 pro . Its not self leveling enclosed or anything. The filament is fresh out the package tho...

Im drawing in fusion and using the basic Creality slicer This is high temp PLA Proto pasta HTP31710-BLK opaque black that can be annealed for even more strength.

[Clugh]

Didn't want to do this. It looks really nice but printing to this quality takes too long. I'm Printing the radio box in 3 or 4 interlocking pieces. 6 hours to print just this .. So I estimate roughly a day to print all the pieces and assemble. The bottom is shouldered and will snap into place and be bonded with CA which adheres exceptionally to PLA. Should come out clean if I take my time.

Regards
Hubert

[Clugh]

Interesting

Liquid Coolers - TE Technology

[Clugh]

Drive line is in now with the additional tbar and it is smooth as silk. 🙈🙉🙊















The bend is slight. The stinger sits about 1/4 inch above the V.. There is no endplay with the lead Teflon bearings but I still may load a new stinger barrel with ball bearings and test if it indeed gains a few rpm. It is a very solidly setup 1/8 inch drive system. I'm happy with it.

[Clugh]

[Clugh]

I have two of these water outlets for two coolant lines. One for the motor and one for the ESC and will add more from there .I'd like duals
for both components.