1/35th, 66" long Disney Nautilus

[RCjetdude]

When you rig it up for RC, it will just drive on top of the water yes? Not submerge?

Now you have to get George to work on a replica Disney ride so we can put a go pro in a bottom window

It will definitely submerge. That is what distinguishes a submarine from a boat and makes it fascinating to me.

[RCjetdude]

Some airbrush work to accent rivets and panel lines with flat black. Then a light coat of Krylon flat clear acrylic and she is ready for rusting. I will be applying the Modern Masters Metal Effects oxidizing iron paint for the first time so I am anxious to see how it turns out but I have heard good things about it.

[Prowler901]

Outstanding!👍

[BluesDragon]

For some reason I found myself looking for a giant squid in the background... ...beautiful work there RCJD!

[Alpha]

What clearcoat sealer will you be using?

[RCjetdude]

What clearcoat sealer will you be using?

Most likely Krylon Color Master Satin

[Merry Boozer RC]

Steve call me crazy but I just love the testers clear satin it’s always been my favorite although it’s a tad expensive

[RCjetdude]

OK, you're crazy! The rusting process has begun. This is just after the second application. It is going to look really good when finished. Much of this will get wiped off after it dries completely. It will likely take several days to complete because of drying time.

[RCjetdude]

One quarter has now been rusted and wiped down. The clear coat will darken it a bit when applied. This rusting product works really well. It is real rust. In the first photo you can definitely see a before and after.

[Alpha]

It looks great, Steve! No surprise, coming from you!

What product are you using for the rust?

Back when I used to build large scale warships, I used the following recipe to make my own rusting solution. Like your product, it too ended up being "real rust", with chunks and other bits that concentrated particles and hues into a convincing glop that I'd work into crevices and panel lines:

1) Glass jar, "standard" size for peanut butter and jelly sandwiches. Eat all jelly and sandwiches first.
2) Fill 1/4 of the jar with #00 steel wool that you have crinkled into small spheres.
3) Fill 1/8 of the jar with #0000 steel wool. It is best if you intertwine the #00 steel wool with the #0000 steel wool.
4) Fill 1/4 of the jar with hydrogen peroxide
5) Add a capful or two of vinegar
6) Add in a tablespoon of dirt or muddy clay
7) Avoid filling the bottle more than 2/3 full
8) Leave the bottle in the sun for an afternoon. If you're impatient, add more vinegar and a pinch of table salt and stir the mixture up well.
9) Unscrew the cap and don't inhale too deeply. Stir and gently mash with a blunt chop stick to further break down the rusted steel wool into smaller particles
10) You've essentially created a bottle of self-contained all-natural oxidation. Tint with food coloring as desired. Apply like a thick paint, a little goes a long way. Most importantly, let it fully dry and SEAL IT before touching it.

Tinting with colored potato flour, [expensive] modeler dry pigments, natural dirt, or food coloring results in an infinite range of colors.

Best of all, it's cheap.



If your rust is on the lighter (fresher) side of the tonal spectrum, try applying it over a darker rust painted layer that was applied with the hairspray technique or gauze technique. Real rust layered over darker simulated rust is next level.

[RCjetdude]

This is a Rustoleum product called Modern Masters Metal Effects Oxidizing Iron paint. It is thick. I diluted it down at least 50/50 with some water and brushed it on. It says to apply two coats then spritz on the accelerator it comes with. I found a pump cap that fit the bottle but they also sell one for it. Wait 5 minutes and spritz again then let it sit. In about an hour it will start to show rust. It gets heavier as it dries. Maybe apply additional paint as needed and accelerator until desired effect is achieved. Once dry I then wiped it off with a cloth and downward motions to expose some of the base paint. Creates a very realistic look. It takes time but very effective. I ordered it from Amazon.

[Merry Boozer RC]

This is fantastic!!!! Dang it I’m going to need a bottle of that stuff. Steve that is looking fantastic although I new it would your work is always fantastic. Are you going to add green lights to the inside of the model to show through the windows?

[RCjetdude]

This is fantastic!!!! Dang it I’m going to need a bottle of that stuff. Steve that is looking fantastic although I new it would your work is always fantastic. Are you going to add green lights to the inside of the model to show through the windows?

Yellow Green LED's have been ordered for the wheel house. There is some debate about the lights under the edges of the boat like in the scenes where it attacks the warships. I am still thinking on that one. Would definitely add to the "cool" factor.

[RCjetdude]

It is almost mesmerizing to watch it change....

[Merry Boozer RC]

Yep that stuff looks fantastic no joke I’m going to get some of that

[RCjetdude]

Paint work is basically done. Applied a light coat of Krylon clear Satin acrylic.

[RCjetdude]

So after looking at it for a couple days I decided to tone down the sheen a bit but even with a clear coat of matte over the Modern Masters Metal Effects paint it looked too contrasting between the bronzy base paint and the rust effects so I dusted the entire model with some Vallejo old rust powder pigment and then gave it another very light coat of clear matte. It was just what it needed. I couldn't be more pleased now with how it looks. The thing looks friggin' awesome now so on to the running gear.

[Czonio]

I do a lot of Disney Imagineering modeling and you hit the jackpot with the 66". I also have one of these tucked away, waiting to be finished. I'm looking forward to finishing mine, but in the mean time, I look forward to your build.

[RCjetdude]

I do a lot of Disney Imagineering modeling and you hit the jackpot with the 66". I also have one of these tucked away, waiting to be finished. I'm looking forward to finishing mine, but in the mean time, I look forward to your build.

Oh man! You have one of the Custom Replicas kits?

[RRHandy]

Looks good Steve, can't wait to see it in the water. R.