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Tutorial: How To Create a Realistic Textured Surface to a Tank

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  • Tutorial: How To Create a Realistic Textured Surface to a Tank

    Tank surfaces are composed of a variety of materials that were created using a variety of processes. Common methods include casting, or cold rolling sheets of steel. Several modern tanks use composite materials, which lack the characteristic "grain" or "stippling" that is so prominent on tanks produced during World War II.

    One of the most recognizable "features" of a T-34/85, the Soviet Union's highly effective tank during the 1940s, is its poorly sand cast turret. Throughout the war, Soviet tank design and production were guided by the principle of practicality, which simplified away unnecessary luxuries such as cleanly cast parts and uniform welds. To tank modelers, the T-34 presents a fun opportunity to represent surface texture. Heng Long's 1/16 scale T-34/85 is molded with a bumpy pattern, that hints at the overall effect. While it is certainly better than a smoothly molded surface like many other Heng Long tanks, I wanted to take the effect a bit further.

    To begin, first I gather references online. Note the widely uneven welding along the turret, with deep pitting along the surface.

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    Contrast those rough, uneven surfaces of the sand cast steel turret with the smooth rolled steel on certain upper surfaces such as the fender.

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  • #2
    Different Soviet tank factories had different identifying methods when constructing T-34s. Note the vertical lines at the base of the turret to the right:

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    • #3
      Representing the smooth areas is easy --I sand down the molded-in bumps with a sandpaper, starting at 240 grit and working down to 600. Because this is an outdoor running tank, I don't sand to 800 or 1000, because I want to give more for the primer to "bite" into and really stick.

      To represent the uneven turret casted surface, I spread Mr. Surfacer 1000 onto the tank. Working in small areas at a time, this product can be stippled with a stiff paint brush and additionally pocked with a toothpick. I also found that a metal wire brush works well to create a convincing casted appearance.

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      To represent the thick weld seams, I use Tamiya Putty Basic Type, applied directly in a bead and then slightly sculpted with a toothpick. Any sort of quick drying putty can be used here. The putty both fills in the existing seam line from the factory, and is built up to represent "real" weld seams. Importantly, sealing the factory seam line will prevent you from separating the upper turret from the lower turret, so plan ahead. Any upgrades to the barrel or firing system must be made beforehand.

      Working quickly but decisively, the entire model can be made ready for primer in about an hour, after which I added a few more globs of putty in certain areas.

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      Now it's off to the paint booth for pre-shading. Stay tuned!
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      • #4
        Learn something new everyday. Looking forward to doing the weathering on these models as the possibilities are basically unlimited.

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        • #5
          You're right, there is so much potential when it comes to weathering models. I enjoy these 1/16 scale tanks because they scratch my static modeler itch while also satisfying my RC modeler cravings.

          Based on other reference photos, I noticed a type of horizontal banding lines in the turret steel. I tried to represent that effect my lightly scoring the turret with a Dremel bit on low rpm. Then I pock marked the surface with a rounded tip at high rpm to simulate additional imperfections in the turret casting process.

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          • #6
            I know little about tanks but I always appreciate scale detail and weathering tips for RC models...Very cool.
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            • #7
              I create casting texture using a dishware scrubbing sponge that has that blue or green sratchy side. I use red auto body spot glazing putty and smear it on with a trowel doing small areas at a time and then stamp with the sponge and let dry. Then sand with 350 grit and once painted it looks like rough sand cast texture.


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              • #8
                RichJohnson

                Thanks!vI tried your tip to use the green "scratchy" side of a common dishwasher sponge, and I was very happy with the results! I dabbed the scotchpad in Mr. Surfacer 500 (I cannot find red Bondo here) then applied it onto the tank's surface by tapping perpendicular to the surface. I waited about 30 seconds for the Mr. Surfacer 500 to begin to thicken and harden, then I tapped the surface again with a different scotchpad. The result is the material stands up a bit, instead of leveling itself. When mostly dry, I sanded it then applied a second coat. An entire tank can be done in minutes, which is important for me since I have so little time for such projects.

                After priming, the result can be made realistic or exaggerated depending on one's preference. I like doing textured surfaces mostly because they help consolidate washes, filters, and pigments during the weathering process.

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                Notice how the weathering washes pool onto the surface in irregular patterns, which adds depth to the tank's surface.

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                • #9
                  Appreciate the excellent tutorial, Alpha. That's the first thing I did to my WSN T-34s way back when. You can find suitable glazing putty here in the auto markets & probably on Taobao - won't be Bondo but here's a suitable brand from Guangzhou thats comparable.

                  Rich, I've not tried your scratch pad approach so appreciate the tip.

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                  • #10
                    Hi Alpha,
                    is there any relatively easy way to duplicate the anti-magnetic coating on the German tanks?
                    Steve

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Sureshot View Post
                      Hi Alpha,
                      is there any relatively easy way to duplicate the anti-magnetic coating on the German tanks?
                      Steve
                      There are several ways to depict the "zimmerit" coating on certain German tanks. Mechrick on RCG mixed 2 parts Liquid Nails to 1 part corn starch, which I can confirm works very well. In years past, I've used Mr. Surfacer 500 mixed with finely ground art sand (think of the stuff used inside an hourglass or a desktop zen garden) in a 1:1 ratio. Whatever you use, the objective for larger scales like 1/16 is to formulate something you can glop on and sculpt before it hardens. I also recommend scuffing the surface with 180 grit to improve adhesion, especially on areas where you plan on thinning out or chipping the coating.

                      The beauty of zimmerit is that it wasn't always applied very uniformly in real life, and reference photos show flaking and wear. All of these factors reduce the need to be "perfect". While the spacing tends to be very uniform on the X and Y axis, the actual ridge height can vary.
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