Heng Long Tiger 1

[Sureshot]

Anyone have the 1/16 Tiger 1 by Heng Long?
It's on my short list for my first tank purchase and would like to know if there are any major issues with it either in scale fidelity or function.
I don't see a review here or on youtube.
Thanks
Steve

[Alpha]

Sureshot I'll publish my review of the Tiger I soon here on Squawk, that will cover all of those questions in depth. To summarize, the Tiger I is near the top of my recommendations for "First Tank".

There are no issues with function. I love running mine, I have three. The new version we're carrying also has an opening driver's hatch which conceals the On/Off switch, which means you don't need to reach under the tank to turn it on.

In terms of scale fidelity, the Heng Long Tiger I is known for having a few scale inaccuracies that rivet counters like myself can spot. However, I'd wager that most people, especially new tankers, can't spot them and even if they could, wouldn't care.

One of the advantages the Tiger I has, by virtue of being Heng Long's longest in-production tank, is that there are many upgrade parts in metal, resin, PE brass, etc, for modelers who want to take it to the next level.

I think it is important to realize that there is no surviving Tiger I that is in 100% original as-deployed condition, so it is impossible to definitively state what is 100% scale. There were several configurations seen in reference photos, but importantly, there aren't period photos all the way around of any single tank, so us modern modelers are forced to piece together references for what we then say is accurate from every vantage point. Tiger 131 at Bovington is highly useful, but still not 100% period (which is impossible for a single machine to demonstrate all configurations) since it was modified, disassembled, rebuilt, etc. My point is, because "Definitive" is impossible, just have fun with this or any tank. If it looks good to you, that's fine in my book.

Here's a short list of finicky things, again most of which I'd challenge most new tankers to even notice, and most of which are easily rectified by a capable RC modeler.

1) The viewing block is molded low, almost in the button down position
2) The bustle rack entry angle is slightly off
3) Two antenna tubes are molded on the port and starboard corners of the hull, when there should only be one
4) The rear jack doesn't have holding
5) The forward turret face taper is arguably too symmetrical
6) Arguably, one of the headlights could be removed
7) The commander's cupola's ports are misaligned, not difficult to rectify
8) Barrel proportion (necessary to accommodate the Airsoft BB function)

I really like this switch position. The other hatch also opens, which would make an ideal location to DIY a 3D printed magnetic base to accept a bog figure.



Notice the slightly incorrect angle of the bustle bin? I didn't think so.



Pew Pew



With a bit of paint, anything is possible:

[JDMac761stBP]

Still trying to find one.

[Alpha]

JDMac761stBP One what, a Heng Long Tiger? Our shipment arrives this month.

[JDMac761stBP]

JDMac761stBP One what, a Heng Long Tiger? Our shipment arrives this month.

Solid.

[Sureshot]

Thanks Alpha,
Very nice paint and weathering on your Tiger.
I hope to try something like that in the future.
Steve

[gunslingeru]

Hi, just got my tiger 1 6.0S. I am trying to open it up, but I seem to have an issue. I only see 4 screws on the bottom. 2 at the mid and 2 at the back. When I removed the screw, the front still seems to stick. How do I open it up?

[Alpha]

gunslingeru Pop off the spare track (mounted on the forward lower glacis). The track piece obscures the two forward screw holes.

To pop off the spare track, simply grip it from both sides and pull out parallel to the surface. You can also try prying it up with a flathead screwdriver.

[gunslingeru]

gunslingeru Pop off the spare track (mounted on the forward lower glacis). The track piece obscures the two forward screw holes.

To pop off the spare track, simply grip it from both sides and pull out parallel to the surface. You can also try prying it up with a flathead screwdriver.

Ah. Thanks Alpha!

[gunslingeru]

Here is a pic of my Tiger 1!

[fluup]

Here some pics off my tank .
Its based on the bovington tiger .
Jack did a wonderfull job on it

[dai phan]

Thank you Alpha for a nice and detailed review of the Tiger. I am planning to buy a King Tiger and the guy on EB ( From Toucan I think) offers me 1 buck ( ONE DOLLAR) discount off the asking price ! Dai

[quitcherbitchen]

I will wait for Motion. I really am starting to think about the Tanks and always loved the Tiger 1 even though by WWII standards she was obsolete by mid war. Thanks for your enthusiasm Dai. It is starting to get contagious.

[dai phan]

I will wait for Motion. I really am starting to think about the Tanks and always loved the Tiger 1 even though by WWII standards she was obsolete by mid war. Thanks for your enthusiasm Dai. It is starting to get contagious.

I got three already (Challenger, T90 and Leopard) and I keep looking at other tanks. To be honest I have not ran them that much since I have nobody to play with but like eating chips, you can't just have one! That guy who offers 1 dollar off the asking price, what in the world ? Dai

[Cathurga]

Hey All,

I am new here, but not a new tanker... I started building a Tamiya Tiger 5 years ago, and got about 85% completed, then children, work, life got in the way. I dont want to pass my hard work Tiger on to my son who is tank beserk, so I am going to get him one of these (stock dependent). I will start him off on the entry level V6.0 as it seems to be waay improved from the previous versions. I will upgrade it as he breaks stuff....which he no doubt will. I have a few questions and was hoping the knowledgable people here might be able to answer them.

Are the road wheels running on bearings, or just bushes like old?
Some of the new tanks have idler adjustment, is this one of them?
I have some LiPo packs I would like to use, as they are 5-6000Mah, but not sure if there is space, or whether the new boards can handle a fully charged LiPo (8.4V). One of the packs is a 'shorty" for racing, and even at 4000mah, its still a lot smaller than a stock 6-cell NiMh pack.
Anyone designed and built a quick release system to get into the lower hull? I know I am going to be cleaning debris out of this to get better life out of the gearboxes and workings, so a quick way in would be great.
Lastly, even the entry level ones seem to have steel gears, is this the case?

Thanks to all! After lurking here for a bit, seemed like the friendlist place to ask,

Andy

[Rubicon99]

Hey All,

I am new here, but not a new tanker... I started building a Tamiya Tiger 5 years ago, and got about 85% completed, then children, work, life got in the way. I dont want to pass my hard work Tiger on to my son who is tank beserk, so I am going to get him one of these (stock dependent). I will start him off on the entry level V6.0 as it seems to be waay improved from the previous versions. I will upgrade it as he breaks stuff....which he no doubt will. I have a few questions and was hoping the knowledgable people here might be able to answer them.

Are the road wheels running on bearings, or just bushes like old?
Some of the new tanks have idler adjustment, is this one of them?
I have some LiPo packs I would like to use, as they are 5-6000Mah, but not sure if there is space, or whether the new boards can handle a fully charged LiPo (8.4V). One of the packs is a 'shorty" for racing, and even at 4000mah, its still a lot smaller than a stock 6-cell NiMh pack.
Anyone designed and built a quick release system to get into the lower hull? I know I am going to be cleaning debris out of this to get better life out of the gearboxes and workings, so a quick way in would be great.
Lastly, even the entry level ones seem to have steel gears, is this the case?

Thanks to all! After lurking here for a bit, seemed like the friendlist place to ask,

Andy

If you purchase the “Pro” version you will get metal wheels with bearings.

A 2s Lipo battery at 8.4v peak output is well within the design capabilities of the 6.0 tanks. They are rated up to 12.6v though I would not recommend this high of voltage. The control system can overheat.

Also the new 6.0 tanks have two power settings a HIGH and LOW. Make sure while your young one is learning you have it set to low power. The tank is rather quick in HP mode especially at 8.4+ volts.

[dai phan]

If you purchase the “Pro” version you will get metal wheels with bearings.

A 2s Lipo battery at 8.4v peak output is well within the design capabilities of the 6.0 tanks. They are rated up to 12.6v though I would not recommend this high of voltage. The control system can overheat.

Also the new 6.0 tanks have two power settings a HIGH and LOW. Make sure while your young one is learning you have it set to low power. The tank is rather quick in HP mode especially at 8.4+ volts.

I did not know there are 2 power settings. What are they ??? Dai

[Rubicon99]

I did not know there are 2 power settings. What are they ??? Dai

Press “G” and hold while you toggle the throttle stick up for HIGH and down for LOW. You should hear a “ding” tone to indicate the setting has been made. Most of the tanks arrive in the box sex to the HIGH power mode.

HIGH power mode allows for up to the full 12v of rated power.
LOW power mode caps the usable voltage at 7.2v.

LOW power is really good for those that want a more authentic speed and handling feel from their WWII tanks.

[Cathurga]

Rubicon, thanks for the info, very useful. If it is in LOW POWER mode, is it not possible to use the LiPo option or would it still work without 'cooking' things?

[Rubicon99]

Rubicon, thanks for the info, very useful. If it is in LOW POWER mode, is it not possible to use the LiPo option or would it still work without 'cooking' things?

With Lipos I would stay no more then a 2 cell which peak at 8.4 volts. The LOW power mode will regulate use to only 7.2 volts.

I have run 3 cell Lipos which peak at 12+ volts. Again on LOW power mode will regulate use to only 7.2 volts.

The issue, it is really easy to switch from one mode to the other and your son could do it with knowing. It’s fun to run the tanks with high voltage but it will heat the motors and MFU up really fast. The 6.0 has a thermal cut off but it only seem to work once, the second time the system fries, at least all mine have.

For kids I recommend getting a simple and safe old school 7.2v NiMH battery in the 4000-5000 mah range. On a stock tank you will have more run time then a Lipo and not have to worry about running the Lipo charge to low or leaving it sit with no or very low charge between play sessions. Which of course is not healthy for a Lipo battery.