Cleaning Old Gears

[SoCalBobS]

In anticipation of recommencing my rc tank addiction (I have a new one enroute) I took out my old HL Panther G to run around with. It was a new model from HL when I bought it - how many years ago? After a few minutes of activity, one side just stopped. OMG, is it the board, is it the motor, I don't want to put any money into this old tank!

I took it apart and isolated the problem; motor ok, board ok. The right side gear train had frozen up. I've WD-40'ed it, that helped, but not completely.

So my question is, how best to clean out the bushings on the gear reduction axles. I don't think the bushings can be removed from the gearbox frame, at least not on my workbench without damaging something. I'm good at that. What's others done in this situation, besides buying new gears which is not an option. I did my own paint job, so I'd like to keep it.

[Alpha]

SoCalBobS I use Tri-Flow for the bushings and gearboxes in general. Works great!

I like your Panther's colors, did you paint that? It doesn't match my TK6-version Panther G. I like yours better!

[Rubicon99]

In anticipation of recommencing my rc tank addiction (I have a new one enroute) I took out my old HL Panther G to run around with. It was a new model from HL when I bought it - how many years ago? After a few minutes of activity, one side just stopped. OMG, is it the board, is it the motor, I don't want to put any money into this old tank!

I took it apart and isolated the problem; motor ok, board ok. The right side gear train had frozen up. I've WD-40'ed it, that helped, but not completely.

So my question is, how best to clean out the bushings on the gear reduction axles. I don't think the bushings can be removed from the gearbox frame, at least not on my workbench without damaging something. I'm good at that. What's others done in this situation, besides buying new gears which is not an option. I did my own paint job, so I'd like to keep it.

First are your gears steel or zinc? If you are not sure use a magnet to see. If it sticks they are steel if not they are zinc. I ask this because the zinc tend to chip easily and these fragments can get lodged in the gear teeth jamming up the hole works.

The bushing are really easy to remove once the gearbox is remover from the tank. A light tap and they will pop out. That said I have never seen bushing cause a gearbox to lock up. Also you might want to check the motor and make sure it spins freely. They can rust internally rather easily when sitting for a long periods of time given that they are not of the highest quality.

Oil wise I just use plain old synthetic motor oil on the bushing and synthetic bearings grease on the gears. Been working well for me a long time and under very hard running conditions.

[SoCalBobS]

Thanks for the info, especially regarding pushing out the bushings. I blasted everything with WD-40, oiled the bushings with triflow, scrubbed the gear teeth and it’s running again Phew! A lot of what looked like gummed up grease on that one side.

The gears are non-magnetic, but they’re brass colored, not what I think of as zinc. Anyway, I’m back rolling again. Amazing what you can accomplish when you’re locked down and have done every chore errand and project you can think of. Thanks again.

[SoCalBobS]

QUOTE=Alpha;n255690]SoCalBobS I use Tri-Flow for the bushings and gearboxes in general. Works great!

I like your Panther's colors, did you paint that? It doesn't match my TK6-version Panther G. I like yours better![/QUOTE]

Yep, that’s my paint job. Standard German tank colors, undercoat of their yellow with red brown and green. Can’t remember the color names, but that mustardy yellow is cool. EDIT: It's Tamiya's Dark Yellow, XF60 I think is the number.

A number of years back I visited the Littleton armor museum up near San Jose. Their pride and joy was a fully functional Panther, with some bright colors!




Good museum, gone now alas. Here’s my favorite, the Volkswagen of tanks!

[Rubicon99]

Thanks for the info, especially regarding pushing out the bushings. I blasted everything with WD-40, oiled the bushings with triflow, scrubbed the gear teeth and it’s running again Phew! A lot of what looked like gummed up grease on that one side.

The gears are non-magnetic, but they’re brass colored, not what I think of as zinc. Anyway, I’m back rolling again. Amazing what you can accomplish when you’re locked down and have done every chore errand and project you can think of. Thanks again.

Brass colored? Are you sure this is a HL tank and not a Taigen/Torro? Did you buy it upgraded? The only brass gears I am aware of are in the Mato gearboxes. I have never seen a stock HL with all brass gears. That would be neat if it was.

[SoCalBobS]

Hmm! The frames are stamped Mato, but the MFCB is HL’s.

[Rubicon99]

Hmm! The frames are stamped Mato, but the MFCB is HL’s.

Sounds like you have an upgraded HL with Mato gearboxes. If I had to bet they are Mato 5:1 gearboxes which were/are a good compromise between top speed and low speed handling control with the old control systems.

[SoCalBobS]

I think you're right. When I bought the panther, Mato was the primary source. I didn't pay attention to what was included in their upgrade. BTW, the motors are ProMax 400's. Wonder how they compare to today's motors.

[Rubicon99]

I think you're right. When I bought the panther, Mato was the primary source. I didn't pay attention to what was included in their upgrade. BTW, the motors are ProMax 400's. Wonder how they compare to today's motors.

Those are much better motors then the stock 380s. Though they are not used much anymore for a number of reasons, mostly having do with improvements in MFU overall control of power to the motors.