Originally posted by Rubicon99
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Getting started in RC tanks... A quick question
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Generally the HL Leopard is a good tank and work really well at first. It has some weaknesses in the way the molded in lower hull suspension stops interact with the suspension arms. Rather quickly the arms can wear or completely brake off the stops because they are to small and weak. This causes an over travel situation and the arms move to far downward. This then cause all sorts of other problems.Originally posted by dai phan View Post
The Sherman I returned did not work well with the smoke system. Off and on and then none. I made sure I did not flood the intake. What do you think about the HL Leopard? Dai
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Then looks like I will return it back unopened. What do you suggest a good HL for first timers? DaiOriginally posted by Rubicon99 View Post
Generally the HL Leopard is a good tank and work really well at first. It has some weaknesses in the way the molded in lower hull suspension stops interact with the suspension arms. Rather quickly the arms can wear or completely brake off the stops because they are to small and weak. This causes an over travel situation and the arms move to far downward. This then cause all sorts of other problems.
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If you want a “modern” tank then the Abrams or T72/T90. The Challenger 2 is also pretty good but some can be finicky.Originally posted by dai phan View Post
Then looks like I will return it back unopened. What do you suggest a good HL for first timers? Dai
WW2 tanks I would go straight for the T34-85 with metal upgrades: track, road wheels, sprockets and Idler. Solid running tank with almost no vices.
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If I would like to keep the Leopard what can I do so I don't muck it up? I really like it.Originally posted by Rubicon99 View Post
If you want a “modern” tank then the Abrams or T72/T90. The Challenger 2 is also pretty good but some can be finicky.
WW2 tanks I would go straight for the T34-85 with metal upgrades: track, road wheels, sprockets and Idler. Solid running tank with almost no vices.
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Kind of hard to mess it up. The issues with the hull stops can be addressed and strengthen but you have to be willing to drill some small wholes in the hull and add metal stops. It is a little work but once done it usually solves the issues.Originally posted by dai phan View Post
If I would like to keep the Leopard what can I do so I don't muck it up? I really like it.
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How can I prevent "hull stop" issues? And what is it anyway? Remember I am scale A/C guy and award winning plastic modeler but squatt about tanks. DPOriginally posted by Rubicon99 View Post
Kind of hard to mess it up. The issues with the hull stops can be addressed and strengthen but you have to be willing to drill some small wholes in the hull and add metal stops. It is a little work but once done it usually solves the issues.
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The hull stops are small pieces of the nylon/plastic hull protrusions that stick out just fat enough to stop the metal suspension arms at a given point of downward travel. Sorry I don’t have my Leopard easily accessible to photo one.Originally posted by dai phan View Post
How can I prevent "hull stop" issues? And what is it anyway? Remember I am scale A/C guy and award winning plastic modeler but squatt about tanks. DP
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How do I know I have hull stop issues ? What are the warning signs? DPOriginally posted by Rubicon99 View Post
The hull stops are small pieces of the nylon/plastic hull protrusions that stick out just fat enough to stop the metal suspension arms at a given point of downward travel. Sorry I don’t have my Leopard easily accessible to photo one.
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Have you confirmed its in high speed mode (G button & right stick forward)? The bigger a tracked vehicle is, the longer it will take to make a turn at a given speed.Originally posted by dai phan View PostHi all,
This morning I took my Leopard for a drive and it is much slower than the Sherman (also metal tracks) and very sluggish in turns. The battery is full charge (3800 mAh). Does this seem right? Dai
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No, I have not done the high speed mode set up ( didn't read the manual yet). I just ran out of the box like I did with the Sherman. Since it is much bigger and heavier I am sure it has to be slower than the S. DaiOriginally posted by windmill View Post
Have you confirmed its in high speed mode (G button & right stick forward)? The bigger a tracked vehicle is, the longer it will take to make a turn at a given speed.
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When stationed in Germany as a M-1 tank crewman, I got to train with our "sister" German armor unit, and had the opportunity to drive, load, and gun a Leopard. I could identify the M-1 sound set because the turbine sound is unique, but I couldn't say which of the other 3 was the Leopard to save my life. None of the sound sets sound like anything more than a vague suggestion of the real thing.Originally posted by dai phan View Post
Ideally each tank should have its unique sound right? I am sure HL does it for cost saving measures since there are so many tanks. Dai
At the HL price point, I'm happy with what they are, and won't worry about what they're not.
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Thank you for your reply. Unless I am wrong I think Tamiya tanks each has its own unique sound but then 4 times the price. DaiOriginally posted by windmill View Post
When stationed in Germany as a M-1 tank crewman, I got to train with our "sister" German armor unit, and had the opportunity to drive, load, and gun a Leopard. I could identify the M-1 sound set because the turbine sound is unique, but I couldn't say which of the other 3 was the Leopard to save my life. None of the sound sets sound like anything more than a vague suggestion of the real thing.
At the HL price point, I'm happy with what they are, and won't worry about what they're not.
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