Need help with a possibly dead tank

[dsmith10]

I've got a heng long KV1 with a 6.0s board. I haven't run this tank is about 8 months or so but it was stored with no batteries inserted. I went to have a battle today and I can't get it to turn on at all, no lights no sound nothing. The batteries are all charged and run my heng long tiger 1 just fine. I've opened the KV1 up and there are no frayed wire, no loose connections (I unplugged and replugged everything just to be sure) and I still get nothing. I also tried the battery from my tiger, thought maybe a higher power battery might do it but still nothing. I figure I may have to replace the board but I'm not sure if this is something anyone else has come across and been able to fix

[Sureshot]

Could be a bad switch or battery connector. Make sure there is power going to the board. A volt meter is handy for checking things out.
Steve

[SoCalBobS]

I'd try re-binding it to the transmitter, just in case. Turn on the Tx, then while holding down the start switch on the Tx, turn on the tank.

[keilau]

I've got a heng long KV1 with a 6.0s board. I haven't run this tank is about 8 months or so but it was stored with no batteries inserted. I went to have a battle today and I can't get it to turn on at all, no lights no sound nothing. The batteries are all charged and run my heng long tiger 1 just fine. I've opened the KV1 up and there are no frayed wire, no loose connections (I unplugged and replugged everything just to be sure) and I still get nothing. I also tried the battery from my tiger, thought maybe a higher power battery might do it but still nothing. I figure I may have to replace the board but I'm not sure if this is something anyone else has come across and been able to fix

I have a very similar experience. I ordered a Henglong Leopard2A6 from a seller (build-for-you) who shipped the package from New Jersey. The tank arrived DOA and with no sound or blinking at all. I checked the control electronics for continuity with a bench ohm meter. Everything seems to be ok, but the tank will not work.

Could be a bad switch or battery connector. Make sure there is power going to the board. A volt meter is handy for checking things out.
Steve

I called the bay seller for help. They suspected the same and said the power switch was known to be problematic. A tech facetimed me from China. He had me disconnect the power switch and jumper the pins on the multifunction TK6.0S board. Nothing seemed to work. Finally, they wanted to ship me a replacement of the TK6.0S. I agreed to do the replacement. All the time, their service rep and the tech are courteous and supportive. That across the ocean facetime is a first in customer support.

While waiting for the new TK board, I continued to looked inside and touched the parts. I noticed that the TK board completely came loose from its base (top of battery compartment). I cleaned off the sticky pad and put some 3M sticky mounting pad to re-glue the TK board securely. Then, I tried a second time to re-sit all the electrical connectors. This time, it worked. The tank came alive when I switched it on. It has been running ok for a week now.

When I received the tank package, it was double boxed. But the outer box is mostly cosmetic because it was so thin. Part of it was torn off. The inner box looked ok with one slightly compressed corner. No physical damage was noticed inside. But I noted that the very heavy tank (I ordered the metal version) was NOT tied down to the foam insert. It probably got knocked around inside a bit during transportation that ended with the problem Smith and I had. I am lucky enough that I could fix the problem without having to return it to the seller.



This is the 4th Henglong tank in 16 years after the 2005 Pershing. It is a world ahead of the Pershing in layout and construction. I have as much fun upgrading the Henglong's as well as running them. Below is my Pershing VIP. Version 5.3 control works amazingly well. Metal gearbox and track kept breaking down and is waiting for the bearing version of gearbox and 390 motor.

[Sureshot]

Glad things worked out.
Your photo of the Pershing reminds me of one feature of the older tanks that I really like and that is the use of the multi-pin connectors to disconnect the upper hull from the lower. Now on the newer ones you have to disconnect everything from the board and use a diagram to get them back in the right places.
Steve

[keilau]

Glad things worked out.
Your photo of the Pershing reminds me of one feature of the older tanks that I really like and that is the use of the multi-pin connectors to disconnect the upper hull from the lower. Now on the newer ones you have to disconnect everything from the board and use a diagram to get them back in the right places.
Steve

It is funny the way you mention it. The original 27 MHz controller board was hardwired. Today, you can buy a box kit of JST-PH connectors or 10 pair of 7-pin male/female connector cable for well under $10. It will be a nice weekend project to make all of your tanks' turret quick disconnect from the controller.