Best tools and/or method to remove control board connections

[HardRock]

Preparing to install new red motors and gears in HL Abrams…

What are the best tool(s) to use to:

remove plug connections to the control board?
disconnect the connections between the motors and the control board?

[Zippersnapper]

Small needle nose with serrations on the ends, be sure to peel back the plastic/rubbery insulating caps..especially on the female (large) connection.

[Vaseline]

I use hemostats for pulling JSTs and my fingers for disconnecting the motor bullet connectors.

[keilau]

Preparing to install new red motors and gears in HL Abrams…

What are the best tool(s) to use to:

remove plug connections to the control board?
disconnect the connections between the motors and the control board?

I used to do what Zippersnapper suggested, pulling with the help of a small plier. But I have changed all the bullet style connector to XT60 which is easy to solder and easy to disconnect.

[Timbo68]

XT60s are very good, as they are easy to solder in and are my first choice, but they can sometimes be stiff to disconnect. However, they take up quite a lot of room, especially where it can be critical with lots of equipment in Russian tanks such as the T-55 or T-72. Where I have a battery and MFU (such as the HL6.1s) with Deans, I've left them alone, as they are small by comparison, and equally reliable. Bullet connectors I also leave alone, as they take up very little space.

[Zippersnapper]

I used to do what Zippersnapper suggested, pulling with the help of a small plier. But I have changed all the bullet style connector to XT60 which is easy to solder and easy to disconnect.

Excellent idea

[keilau]

XT60s are very good, as they are easy to solder in and are my first choice, but they can sometimes be stiff to disconnect. However, they take up quite a lot of room, especially where it can be critical with lots of equipment in Russian tanks such as the T-55 or T-72. Where I have a battery and MFU (such as the HL6.1s) with Deans, I've left them alone, as they are small by comparison, and equally reliable. Bullet connectors I also leave alone, as they take up very little space.

The subject of this thread is on ease of disconnect. The XT60 is slightly larger, but not big enough to change the available space formula. The M26 Pershing is typical of WW2 tanks in volume. The modern tanks, Abrams, , Challenger II and Leopard are all huge by comparison.

[Timbo68]

The subject of this thread is on ease of disconnect. .

Is it? OK. I make the point that XT60s can be very stiff to disconnect. Although XT60s are, for several reasons, my preferred connector (except for motor connections where I'm very happy with bullets), Deans are actually, in my experience, easier to disconnect. Additionally, if you have struggled through the build of a Hooben T-55, and if you have successfully included an HL 6.1s MFU, a 2S LiPo, a barrel smoker, a cooling fan and an exhaust smoker, you will find that using the supplied 6.1 Deans instead of XT60s makes the difference between being able to close the hull, rotate the turret and elevate the gun, and not being able to do any of those things. An XT60 is big enough, to use a phrase, to change the available space formula.
Just thought some might be interested....

[keilau]

I can pull to disconnect 2 half of XT60 easily with hand. I can never separate the Deans' plug without a sharp knife edge. I tinker my Henglone tank a lot. I was testing different motors recently so the quick disconnect is a factor in selecting the XT60. The bullet type connector is the most compact among the 3 and still reasonably secure.

[Timbo68]

I can pull to disconnect 2 half of XT60 easily with hand. I can never separate the Deans' plug without a sharp knife edge.

That’s interesting - my experience has been completely the opposite. I’ve never fitted Deans myself, but used the ones prewired on batteries or MFUs, and they have all been super easy to disconnect. My XT60s, which I prefer because I think that wiring them feels straightforward, and I like the little grey caps which cover and protect the joints, always need a two-handed pull to separate them. Mine do look different from yours in the picture though. I’ve bought them from various suppliers, and they have all been a tight fit. Maybe it’s because I get most of my stuff from dealers in Europe. I don’t do many motor swaps once they are in, so I’m happy with bullets as they are small.