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“Junk / Scrap” yard M4 Sherman build.

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  • “Junk / Scrap” yard M4 Sherman build.

    Got my hands on a lightly used cheap 6.0 Heng Long Sherman a few days ago. I decided after I got it IR combat ready with a LegoDEI IR receiver and high output IR bulb to start building it into a refurbished Eastern European themed “Firefly”.

    The majority of the “add on parts” will be off Eastern European tanks ranging from 1940 to present day. Tracks are being changed to T49 with “duck bills” and I plain on heavily weathering / aging this tank to help it fit the theme.

    As show in the first photos below are some (not all) of add on parts and they are only “dry fitted” and subject to change as the build develops. Also the tank IS NOT painted yet. For fun can you identify the tank parts being added?

    If you want to see more photos and videos first of this build check out my Instagram @ fsttanks

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  • #2
    I like those Russian hand rails on the turret and the 2 big gas drums at the rear

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    • #3
      BASIC paint scheme on. Now to start adding accessories, detail painting and the long weathering process to make it look used and abused.

      Also the tank was IR combat tested before painting and with the new high powered IR bulb in the barrel, I lucked out and it was spot on zero’d, easily hitting target tanks past 200ft (overcast lighting). T49 duck bill tracks and a new steel transmission are inbound as well.

      So far it looks to be on schedule to make its official first IR battle day at the 619 Tank Battalion battle day in San Diego on the Nov 13th.

      BASIC start point paint scheme on. Tracks on turret are made to be removable and other accessories can be added in their place if so desired.
      Click image for larger version

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      • #4
        Are those plates from your T-90? Project is looking good.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by sclui56 View Post
          Are those plates from your T-90? Project is looking good.
          Yes the are part of the “skirt armor” from the T90.

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          • #6
            The long barrel with the nice muzzle brake looks just right. Do you know where I can get one to replace the (HL Fury) German barrel on my M4? Thanks!

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            • #7
              Originally posted by DavidN View Post
              The long barrel with the nice muzzle brake looks just right. Do you know where I can get one to replace the (HL Fury) German barrel on my M4? Thanks!
              It is a “Firefly” barrel I bought from Toucan hobbies off EBay. Like the “Fury” (panther) barrel it is too long so I cut it down to the correct length. Which is approx 6.5” (provided by Rich Johnson) or approx double the length of the stock gun from mantle face “pass through” to where the brake attaches (the muzzle brake is not part of the 6.5” measurement).

              Note: The barrel is aluminum and the brake is integral with the rest of the barrel so it has to be cut off and reattach once the barrel is shortened.

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              • #8
                Oh I see. Thanks for the measurement on the barrel. I will just get the muzzle brake and put in on my barrel.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by DavidN View Post
                  Oh I see. Thanks for the measurement on the barrel. I will just get the muzzle brake and put in on my barrel.
                  The “Fitefly” muzzle brake is model into the barrel. To use it you must cut it off.

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                  • #10
                    HengLong M4 “Junk/Scrap” yard themed build. Weathering is SLOWLY starting to take shape.

                    Note: tracks are not being weathered as these are not the final ones being used and most of the accessories are not on the tank yet.
                    Click image for larger version

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Rubicon99 View Post

                      The “Fitefly” muzzle brake is model into the barrel. To use it you must cut it off.
                      Got it. Rich Johnson will help me on this the next time we meet :-)

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                      • #12
                        New “cleat” style T49 track with “duck bills” came in. This track gives the tank a more Eastern European look. “Cleat” style of pads are used on the later models of the T72/90 tanks.

                        Still have to add weathering and then a bit of use for a good worn appearance to fit the overall theme of the tank.

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                        • #13
                          Those patterns look like museum tanks I've seen. Nice job!
                          Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!

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                          • #14
                            So far so.....unique . It is nice to see an Eastern European tank.

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                            • #15
                              Finished testing new metal T49 tracks and they definitely improved the off road performance. I was going to help along the weathering of them but they seemed to weather themselves just fine with a bit of hard running.

                              Here is a photo taken after the testing was done. Testing videos will be on my Instagram @ fsttanks. Feel free to take a look.
                              Click image for larger version  Name:	5A4EA98B-70D5-499C-9904-45D1F83123EE.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	353.5 KB ID:	329950 Heng Long M4 Sherman in “Russian Firefly” theme.

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                              • #16
                                After a day of hard running over my combat / trials course testing the new tracks, sprockets and Idler wheels I came to the conclusion that the track was to loose. It was not causing any issues with running just looked sloppy. Knowing the slop would only get worse as the track continues to break in I decided to remove one link.

                                Removing one link caused the track to be tight but also caused an issue of misalignment (not something that can be addressed easily nor needs to be if track tension is correct) to be noticed and start effecting track reliability. One link less is to tight and issues come up one link more is to sloppy but run with no issues. The sweet spot where I get both a slightly tighter track yet maintain reliability is somewhere in the middle.

                                So I had to add the link back in and contend with the sloppy fit and then start from there....well kind of. Without an idler adjustment system on the HL M4 to take up some slack I had to resort to an “old school” technique with the idler wheel. What is “old school” technique you ask? Simply adding electrical tap around the idler wheel to increase its diameter which in turn acts like “pushing” the wheel outward against the track similar to what an idler adjuster does.

                                Now this work well but does need to be replaced or added to as the track wears in (track stretch) or the tape becomes overly worn.

                                If I wanted to spend the money, Mato makes an aftermarket metal idler wheel adjuster system for the HL Sherman. It does require a bit of work to install, but given the intended use of this tank adding it is just not worth the effort at this time considering the effectiveness of the “old school” technique.

                                Below is a photo of the track with it set to the “sweet spot”. Prior to the idler wheel modification the track drooped about 40% more then shown. If you look closely you can see the tape wrapped around the idler wheel. It looks like a rubber tread.
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                                • #17
                                  No extensions on them. This is what I was remembering.

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                                  Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!

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                                  • #18
                                    Rubicon, do you think the "old school" technique can be applied to the T34/85 and King Tiger? Because for the track loosing correction with these 2 tanks, I have to take out 2 links instead of 1. So I ran into the problem of too tight or too loose too. Thank you!

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                                    • #19
                                      Originally posted by DavidN View Post
                                      Rubicon, do you think the "old school" technique can be applied to the T34/85 and King Tiger? Because for the track loosing correction with these 2 tanks, I have to take out 2 links instead of 1. So I ran into the problem of too tight or too loose too. Thank you!
                                      Are these 6.0 and new tanks? If so they will have idler adjusters for tensioning the track.

                                      The T34 should have loose track that rides touching the top of the road wheel. It can look sloppy but is correct (see photo). The T34 is a very forgiving design when it comes to tracks. Click image for larger version

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                                      The King Tiger also should have a sloppy looking track that rides on or very close to the top road wheels. Unlike the T34 the KT is far more touchy when it comes to track retention so attempting the method I used above can become more necessary if you do not have a newer KT with the factory adjusters.

                                      If you attempt the method it does take a few tries to learn what it takes to get both the method and proper diameter to increase tension to a reliable working point.

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                                      • #20
                                        My T34/85 is the customized late 7.0 version and I don't see any idler adjuster in it. As you can see from the picture, my tracks don't touch the top wheels per your advice. They seem quite tight. Should I add in the 2 links? It came from Toucan that way though.

                                        For my king tiger, I bought an old static tank and converted it into RC. So it doesn't have the idler adjuster also. I will apply the method on the KT then.

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