Question on 6.0 & up HL tank with LegoDEI installed

[DavidN]

I recently learned about port LED 1 in the TK6.0 or 7.0 of HL. It's the launch flashing light port. I have just put one into the muzzle brake of my Panzer IV. It flashes when I fire. Just like the one I have with the Toro tank. I like very much this additional feature. But it will also be 9mm in front of the IR emitter if I want to install the LegoDEI for battling. Does anyone know where else I can install the IR emitter if I want to keep the flashing fire LED in my muzzle brake? Thank you!

[SoCalBobS]

Put the emitter where the original one was.

[RT Asp]

I recently learned about port LED 1 in the TK6.0 or 7.0 of HL. It's the launch flashing light port. I have just put one into the muzzle brake of my Panzer IV. It flashes when I fire. Just like the one I have with the Toro tank. I like very much this additional feature. But it will also be 9mm in front of the IR emitter if I want to install the LegoDEI for battling. Does anyone know where else I can install the IR emitter if I want to keep the flashing fire LED in my muzzle brake? Thank you!

That’s an awesome looking tank there! I don’t have any answers for you, but I do have a question…lol. I have mostly Taigen tanks, but I am considering Heng Long seeing the great work you all been doing with them. I have heard from you guys some good stuff about TK6.0 and 7.0. Can I get some of these boards and swap with Taigen board or am i better off with pricier IBU2, El mod, etc. I do want a battling capability someday. I still have no clue, but hope to get there. I have 3 Tamiya TBU and 3 LegoDEI (after hearing about them here) that I bought. Incidentally, the guy that sells the LegoDEI apparently ships from very close to me and address indicates he’s a neighbor of a childhood friend. This seems like it’s gonna be a very pricy hobby…lol

[DavidN]

Put the emitter where the original one was.

If I put it where the original HL emitter is, wouldn't it violate the battling rule as it will emit 180 degrees everywhere in front of it?

[DavidN]

That’s an awesome looking tank there! I don’t have any answers for you, but I do have a question…lol. I have mostly Taigen tanks, but I am considering Heng Long seeing the great work you all been doing with them. I have heard from you guys some good stuff about TK6.0 and 7.0. Can I get some of these boards and swap with Taigen board or am i better off with pricier IBU2, El mod, etc. I do want a battling capability someday. I still have no clue, but hope to get there. I have 3 Tamiya TBU and 3 LegoDEI (after hearing about them here) that I bought. Incidentally, the guy that sells the LegoDEI apparently ships from very close to me and address indicates he’s a neighbor of a childhood friend. This seems like it’s gonna be a very pricy hobby…lol

Thank you for your comment on my tank. I think normally you should go up instead of go back. It means that if you own a Taigen, you should upgrade to something better or those pricier systems instead of going down to the HL 6.0-7.0. If you have an HL, then you can put in the 6.0-7.0 or just buy a tank with that system and then install your LegoDEI.

[Rubicon99]

If I put it where the original HL emitter is, wouldn't it violate the battling rule as it will emit 180 degrees everywhere in front of it?

Don’t worry to much about set rules made by clubs outside CA unless you plan on traveling. Also your HL system wouldn’t even be allowed to play at most “BIG” club events oustside CA. The CA clubs (LA & SD) are more forgiving when it comes to emitter depth especially if you are using stock HL or Tamiya bulbs as these are relatively low power.

As far as emitter and flash being in the barrel together this does not work out well. Either go with flash or IR emitter not both.

That being said if you have the ability you should try to set the emitter to a deeper depth inside the tank in case you decide to upgrade the electronics to something better that is fully “BIG” club rule compliant.

Below is an example done on a T72 where the position is stock, but the depth has been increased using a short tube attached to the original mounting point. Some additional minor interior turret modifications might be needed to make room for the extended tube, but are usually easily accomplished.

[DavidN]

I see! I am not going anywhere outside of Southern California. I love these LA-SD "forgiving" club members.

Thank you for the picture of how the emitter is placed. I have the general idea now. But the thing is I am a little "want too much" type of tanker. I would like to have my tank equipped with recoil barrel too when I fire. The recoil bar will be install where that tube is at. Maybe I can squeeze both in there or put the tube on the side where the old HL emitter is. I just need to figure out a right type of tank to do so. Thanks again R99 :-)

[Rubicon99]

I see! I am not going anywhere outside of Southern California. I love these LA-SD "forgiving" club members.

Thank you for the picture of how the emitter is placed. I have the general idea now. But the thing is I am a little "want too much" type of tanker. I would like to have my tank equipped with recoil barrel too when I fire. The recoil bar will be install where that tube is at. Maybe I can squeeze both in there or put the tube on the side where the old HL emitter is. I just need to figure out a right type of tank to do so. Thanks again R99 :-)

You are becoming a true tank hobbyists. There is an old saying that applies here “If it was easy everyone would do it”. Finding ways to make the tanks do what you want is a big part of the hobby and what sets stock tanks apart from custom tanks.

[Vaseline]

This is how I did my emitters on a couple Panzer IVs

[DavidN]

That is super simple. Many thanks! I will equip my panzer IV F2s and Gs like that. I will deal with those other tanks later.

[Vaseline]

Its just 1/4 inch brass tubing.

[DavidN]

This is how I did my emitters on a couple Panzer IVs

Plastic, brass or metal tube is acceptable?

[DavidN]

Ok! Got it!

[Rubicon99]

Plastic, brass or metal tube is acceptable?

Any material is acceptable as long as the inner diameter is not larger than the diameter of the emitter to fit snugly.

[DavidN]

Its just 1/4 inch brass tubing.

For my T34/85, I have put the IR emitter in the turret similar to your method. It is not that noticeable. My tank now has these features: barrel recoil, flashing light at the end of the gun upon shooting, and IR emitter. Before that, my tank only had the IR emitter feature in the main gun. For putting the IR receiver, I did not want to take the hatch out as I did to my other tank. I used my mom's medicine container to put the IR receiver on. It is quite high, but I get to keep the hatch on the tank. Thank you for showing me your method. Now I can enjoy more when I go into battle . I will work on the Panzer IV next :-)

[RichJohnson]

The key is, if you are going to change out your MFU or TCB system, monikers used interchangeably, to something after market like a Clark, ibu, Elmod etc, then you must follow the 9mm depth of tube in front of your IR emitter, or else your going to shotgun all your team mates beside you and have no real aim on the field. The stock HL 6.0 and above do not seem to suffer this issue, but any aftermarket board and emitter combo will, so you must follow the Tamiya protocol all those were designed to follow. 9mm of depth beyond the front edge of the emitter.

[DavidN]

RJ....Thank you for your post. I always have that measurement in mind when installing the emitter. The tube outside the tank is about 8mm. The emitter inside the hull is about 2mm more. The hole in the hull for the emitter is quite small. Only the top half of the emitter bulb is exposed to the outside tunnel of the tube. The lower bigger base is stuck behind the plastic space of the original emitter slot. Therefore, for this tank, the IR only beam out from the top smaller pointy part of the bulb. With this, I found out the the beam is very narrow and very exact. At 8 yards, if I turn the turret about 5 degrees away the modular IR target, I won't get a hit. So accurate that it scared me :-)