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Upgrading a Henglong 'static' model to 6.1S

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  • OKC_Jim
    Member

    • Jan 2020
    • 53
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    #1

    Upgrading a Henglong 'static' model to 6.1S

    Hey guys,

    A while back I purchases a 'static' Henglong Panzer III as a project. I have a 6.1S MFU sitting around so I figure I'll install it in the tank.

    On the inside of the upper hull it has the small board with 3 different plugs on it. As I rewire the tank for 6.1, is there a good reason to keep or remove this board? Keeping it seems like a decent idea, only one 8-pin plug to unplug to remove the top, but, unless I am remembering wrong, the wires on my Sherman go straight from the MFU to whatever it is they are controlling.

    Hope that is clear?

    Also, since I am basically building this one from the ground up is there anything you'd be sure to do to enhance reliability? I am already planning on adding track tensioners.

    Thanks for your thoughts.

    Jim
  • Rubicon99
    Senior Member

    • Dec 2019
    • 3311
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    #2
    Originally posted by OKC_Jim
    Hey guys,

    A while back I purchases a 'static' Henglong Panzer III as a project. I have a 6.1S MFU sitting around so I figure I'll install it in the tank.

    On the inside of the upper hull it has the small board with 3 different plugs on it. As I rewire the tank for 6.1, is there a good reason to keep or remove this board? Keeping it seems like a decent idea, only one 8-pin plug to unplug to remove the top, but, unless I am remembering wrong, the wires on my Sherman go straight from the MFU to whatever it is they are controlling.

    Hope that is clear?

    Also, since I am basically building this one from the ground up is there anything you'd be sure to do to enhance reliability? I am already planning on adding track tensioners.

    Thanks for your thoughts.

    Jim
    Dump the small board it only complicates things.

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    • OKC_Jim
      Member

      • Jan 2020
      • 53
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      #3
      Originally posted by Rubicon99

      Dump the small board it only complicates things.
      Thanks, Rubicon.

      I know you build your stuff to run. What all would you do to it to make it a good runner?

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      • DavidN
        Senior Member

        • May 2021
        • 3189
        • Los Angeles, CA
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        #4
        I would use the 6.1S for another tank that is more benefit from its cannon recoil and lifting servos. But if you don't have a 6.0s to install into your tank, then 6.1S is fine. You can always take it out and use it for those purpose when you have a tank that needs them.
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        • OKC_Jim
          Member

          • Jan 2020
          • 53
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          #5
          Originally posted by DavidN
          I would use the 6.1S for another tank that is more benefit from its cannon recoil and lifting servos. But if you don't have a 6.0s to install into your tank, then 6.1S is fine. You can always take it out and use it for those purpose when you have a tank that needs them.
          Agree completely. I have the 6.1 on hand and it doesn't have a 'home', so in it goes.

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          • Rubicon99
            Senior Member

            • Dec 2019
            • 3311
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            #6
            Originally posted by OKC_Jim

            Thanks, Rubicon.

            I know you build your stuff to run. What all would you do to it to make it a good runner?
            Is it an all plastic version = gearboxes, suspension and road wheels?

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            • OKC_Jim
              Member

              • Jan 2020
              • 53
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              #7
              Originally posted by Rubicon99

              Is it an all plastic version = gearboxes, suspension and road wheels?
              It was. I have already swapped out the gearboxes.

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              • Rubicon99
                Senior Member

                • Dec 2019
                • 3311
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                #8
                Originally posted by OKC_Jim

                It was. I have already swapped out the gearboxes.
                The old plastic version need a lot. I would replace the sprockets, idlers, suspension arms and road wheels with metal ones. Later I would replace the tracks with metal ones as well.

                The plastic suspension arms and wheels tend to eat at each other rather quickly once dirt gets between/inside the wheel and axel portion of the arms. Also the wheels on your particular tank like to come apart easily while driving. Metal wheels and arms will stop all these issues from happening.

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                • OKC_Jim
                  Member

                  • Jan 2020
                  • 53
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                  #9
                  Originally posted by Rubicon99
                  I would replace the sprockets, idlers, suspension arms and road wheels with metal ones. Later I would replace the tracks with metal ones as well.
                  Sounds goods. My current plan is to add those things as they break or if I want a little project before they break. Unfortunately I seem to be the only R/C tanker in OKC and I don't get as much run time as I'd like. On the plus side things last longer before breaking. lol

                  Kind of funny I originally purchased a static model because I planned on putting a Clark board in it and the price was REALLY good, BUT the more I think about it the more I think I probably would have come out money ahead buying the upgrade version even if I didn't end up using the MFU and transmitter. Not worried about it. I'll have fun tinkering with it, just thinking about next time.

                  Thanks again,

                  Jim

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