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Which HL 7.0 MFU for Challenger 2 sound

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  • Which HL 7.0 MFU for Challenger 2 sound

    Which module is closer for the Challenger - T90 or Leo 2? Thanks.

  • #2
    Originally posted by sclui56 View Post
    Which module is closer for the Challenger - T90 or Leo 2? Thanks.
    Leopard 2

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Rubicon99 View Post

      Leopard 2
      Thank you sir.

      Comment


      • #4
        Rubicon9-9 , Both the Challenger 2 and the 7.0 MFU came in but I think I will leave the C2 in 6.0s for now, already have a couple of Leo 2's running and the HL C2 sound is different. The C2 I got was the upgraded metal one, swapped out to 390'sm and after stripping down the running gear for painting, I noticed I had 4x what looks like #6 washers in the pile. Figured I would find out where they came from once ready to reassemble.

        When it was time, still have those 4x washers left over so I set them aside, started the first test run and tracks on both sides started binding at the sprockets, turned out the sprockets were just a hair too narrow for the metal tracks, I didn't know if HL shares Leo/Abrams tracks with Challenegr but it was worth a try. The thickness of 2x the washers is nearly the difference in width of the tracks and the assembled sprockets, so I inserted the 2x washers per side between the 2 halves of the sprockets and the C2 drove just fine.

        Then there's this minor issue of the horn-retaining discs, now they are no longer pressed against each other to form a uniform gap due to the 2 washers and have some side-to-side movements, so I ended up inserting an o-ring between the inner sprocket half and the inner retaining disc, which took out the slop, the slop didn't affect driveability, it just bothered me. Not sure if this is a proper fix but seems to work. Only thing I need to find are some 3mm split washer for the bolt holding to the shaft, somehow HL didn't see fit to have those fitted.

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        • #5
          When I put mine together I felt there was too much possible play between the two sprocket halves and that the whole thing would loosen too easily. Plus as you note the centering discs are
          loose. My solution was to JB Weld the sprocket halves (with the washers there for proper spacing) and to JB Weld the centering disks were they should be. This plus dual pin tracks fixed my C2’s issues totally.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by sclui56 View Post
            Rubicon9-9 , Both the Challenger 2 and the 7.0 MFU came in but I think I will leave the C2 in 6.0s for now, already have a couple of Leo 2's running and the HL C2 sound is different. The C2 I got was the upgraded metal one, swapped out to 390'sm and after stripping down the running gear for painting, I noticed I had 4x what looks like #6 washers in the pile. Figured I would find out where they came from once ready to reassemble.

            When it was time, still have those 4x washers left over so I set them aside, started the first test run and tracks on both sides started binding at the sprockets, turned out the sprockets were just a hair too narrow for the metal tracks, I didn't know if HL shares Leo/Abrams tracks with Challenegr but it was worth a try. The thickness of 2x the washers is nearly the difference in width of the tracks and the assembled sprockets, so I inserted the 2x washers per side between the 2 halves of the sprockets and the C2 drove just fine.

            Then there's this minor issue of the horn-retaining discs, now they are no longer pressed against each other to form a uniform gap due to the 2 washers and have some side-to-side movements, so I ended up inserting an o-ring between the inner sprocket half and the inner retaining disc, which took out the slop, the slop didn't affect driveability, it just bothered me. Not sure if this is a proper fix but seems to work. Only thing I need to find are some 3mm split washer for the bolt holding to the shaft, somehow HL didn't see fit to have those fitted.

            Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_0157.jpg Views:	0 Size:	97.8 KB ID:	343431Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_0156.jpg Views:	0 Size:	118.4 KB ID:	343432
            The Challenger sprockets are slightly narrower then the Abrams or Leopard. So to use their tracks you do need to widen the sprockets. You are on the correct fix for the sprockets but try using a thinner rubber O Ring.

            The numerous small washers I suspect are for the back side of the control arms were they meet up with the hull.

            Comment


            • #7
              Evan, that may be a permanent fix, because of the washers and O-ring, there is still some play between the halves since they are no longer seated fully. I will look at that gain. At least now I know HL sort of cheated in the C2's sprocket configuration and my sample wasn't a fluke. This must be in one of their "tech bulletins" for assembly, LOL.

              Thanks.

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              • #8
                Thanks Rubicon, copy that on thinner o-ring, will get that when I get split washers when store is open.

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                • #9
                  Evan D BTW, which dual-pin tracks did you opt for? I still have an extra set of Tami for the 2nd Leo 2, I fitted a set of the metal with pads from DKLMRC on the Abrams.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    That’s a good question. A person on Ebay was selling them with the sprockets and idlers. They are single rubber two pin. The are a bit lighter weight that the single pin metal tracks that were original to my tank.

                    Comment

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