Henglong TK 7.1

[Zippersnapper]

I just finished yanking the Clark guts out of the MATO Stug III, and put in the Henglong 7.1 MFU. Got everything working, servo barrel recoil, servo elevation, etc. However when I throw the right stick to turn the tank left, it goes right..and vis-versa. M1 is for the right motor and M2 is left (looking forward as if driving). Forward & Backward work as it should with the exception of turning. Jogging the right stick to the left should turn the tank to left, but the opposite is true. The TK 7.1 has added settings and (I think) I have been through all of those with no luck.

What gives? This is driving me crazy.

[Rubicon99]

I just finished yanking the Clark guts out of the MATO Stug III, and put in the Henglong 7.1 MFU. Got everything working, servo barrel recoil, servo elevation, etc. However when I throw the right stick to turn the tank left, it goes right..and vis-versa. M1 is for the right motor and M2 is left (looking forward as if driving). Forward & Backward work as it should with the exception of turning. Jogging the right stick to the left should turn the tank to left, but the opposite is true. The TK 7.1 has added settings and (I think) I have been through all of those with no luck.

What gives? This is driving me crazy.

You might also have to swap the motor lead lines blk to red from blk to blk, red to red. I had to do this with my 6.1 systems. It is common when upgrading motors to anything other then the HL stock 380s. Mato motors are not HL and might need the wires swapped around. Don’t ask me why it’s HL.

Did you swap the M1/2 around to see what happens?

[Zippersnapper]

You might also have to swap the motor lead lines blk to red from blk to blk, red to red. I had to do this with my 6.1 systems. It is common when upgrading motors to anything other then the HL stock 380s. Mato motors are not HL and might need the wires swapped around. Don’t ask me why it’s HL.

Did you swap the M1/2 around to see what happens?

Thanx once again Rubicon, as always your a GREAT help.

I did swap around M1 & M2, but as one might expect, the forward/reverse was backwards.

I will swap polarity on the motors as you suggested. If you recall, I have a simular issure with my Abrams, but I never got around to messing with it. I will revisit that tank as well.

Once again, thank you and have a great weekend.

[Zippersnapper]

Swapped polarity, The forward/reverse once again was backwards. Then swapped M1 & M2 around again, now its driving like its supposed to. What a trip.

Thanx Rubicon !!.......now to finally fix the Abrams...come to think of it, it screwed up after I put those upgraded motors in it long time ago.

[Zippersnapper]

You might also have to swap the motor lead lines blk to red from blk to blk, red to red. I had to do this with my 6.1 systems. It is common when upgrading motors to anything other then the HL stock 380s. Mato motors are not HL and might need the wires swapped around. Don’t ask me why it’s HL.

Did you swap the M1/2 around to see what happens?

Rubicon, I took my Abrams apart and tested it out thinking about the polarity issue you helped me fix in my other tank. The Abrams is running a TK6.0, with upgraded motors.

The right stick controls the drving as it should, and the left stick controls the turret as it should. However, pushing the stick up/down turns the tank. pushing left/right drives it forward/backward. Complete reversal of what it should do. Here is what I tried:

1. reversing polarity on the motors 2. swapping M1 & M2 3. swapping M1 & M2 and reversing polarity on the motors 4. swapping another TK6.0 MFU. 5. swapping Transmitters

No matter what combination I try, the right stick controls are backwards. I google searched RC Universe, Tank Warfare, with no luck. One person on RC universe posted the exact same issue I am having after swapping motors, but nobody replied with an answer.

Any ideas ?

[Rubicon99]

Rubicon, I took my Abrams apart and tested it out thinking about the polarity issue you helped me fix in my other tank. The Abrams is running a TK6.0, with upgraded motors.

The right stick controls the drving as it should, and the left stick controls the turret as it should. However, pushing the stick up/down turns the tank. pushing left/right drives it forward/backward. Complete reversal of what it should do. Here is what I tried:

1. reversing polarity on the motors 2. swapping M1 & M2 3. swapping M1 & M2 and reversing polarity on the motors 4. swapping another TK6.0 MFU. 5. swapping Transmitters

No matter what combination I try, the right stick controls are backwards. I google searched RC Universe, Tank Warfare, with no luck. One person on RC universe posted the exact same issue I am having after swapping motors, but nobody replied with an answer.

Any ideas ?

Sounds like you might have inadvertently placed the tank into “Tamiya” drive mode. The later 6.0 systems have this as an option. This is the mode that mimics the Tamiya stick movements. In which case given what you have done everything would seem really messed up.

Try pressing the “G” button while moving the left stick down. This is the method to enter and leave “Tamiya” mode on the later 6.0 systems. I occasionally hit this by mistake so I know it can happen and if you are not aware of it make for head scratching moments.

[Zippersnapper]

Sounds like you might have inadvertently placed the tank into “Tamiya” drive mode. The later 6.0 systems have this as an option. This is the mode that mimics the Tamiya stick movements. In which case given what you have done everything would seem really messed up.

Try pressing the “G” button while moving the left stick down. This is the method to enter and leave “Tamiya” mode on the later 6.0 systems. I occasionally hit this by mistake so I know it can happen and if you are not aware of it make for head scratching moments.

Thank you kind sir. After my post, I decided to try one last thing-Hooking up 1 motor at a time to see how the tracks move. I started with the left motor on M2. It ran like it was supposed to. I then unplugged that motor, and plugged in the right motor on M1. Guess what, it was running backawrds. I have 1 motor wired with the correct polarity, and 1 that is not. I then reversed the polarity on the right motor and left the other motor wired with the correct polarity, and the tank moves forward when right stick is up, and reverses when push down. Got that fixed. HOWEVER, the turning is still backwards, left goes right and vis versa. I then swapped M1 & M2 around, and again reversing the poarity on the one motor thats backwards, and it behaves like before. Up/Down is turning, and left/right is foward & backward. I cant win for lose.

I thoiught the Tamiya configuration means Forward/Reverse is on the left stick, not the right?

[Rubicon99]

Thank you kind sir. After my post, I decided to try one last thing-Hooking up 1 motor at a time to see how the tracks move. I started with the left motor on M2. It ran like it was supposed to. I then unplugged that motor, and plugged in the right motor on M1. Guess what, it was running backawrds. I have 1 motor wired with the correct polarity, and 1 that is not. I then reversed the polarity on the right motor and left the other motor wired with the correct polarity, and the tank moves forward when right stick is up, and reverses when push down. Got that fixed. HOWEVER, the turning is still backwards, left goes right and vis versa. I then swapped M1 & M2 around, and again reversing the poarity on the one motor thats backwards, and it behaves like before. Up/Down is turning, and left/right is foward & backward. I cant win for lose.

I thoiught the Tamiya configuration means Forward/Reverse is on the left stick, not the right?

Your system really is behaving oddly. All you should have needed was to reverse the motor wires. What you are describing has me kinda stumped.

There is one other slim possibility. You have it set for the HL “cross drive” gearbox. This would be a rare thing because it is not simple to set like the Tamiya setting. I have only set it up once and that was a while ago.

[Zippersnapper]

Your system really is behaving oddly. All you should have needed was to reverse the motor wires. What you are describing has me kinda stumped.

There is one other slim possibility. You have it set for the HL “cross drive” gearbox. This would be a rare thing because it is not simple to set like the Tamiya setting. I have only set it up once and that was a while ago.

This is what I put in the Abrams.....Henglong's own stuff.......go figure

[SoCalBobS]

If you haven't already done so, you might try pressing and holding "G" and the "Ignition Switch" for 5 seconds until you hear a tone. This toggles the "two motors" and "double current one motor" modes.

It this really screws it up, you can reset to factory default. 1) Turn off the transmitter. 2) Press and hold "Ignition", G & K. 3) While doing so, turn on the transmitter, wait for a tone.

Of course, if you're thinking the problem is the transmitter, maybe bind the tank to another Tx?

Forgive me if you've done all this already.

[Zippersnapper]

If you haven't already done so, you might try pressing and holding "G" and the "Ignition Switch" for 5 seconds until you hear a tone. This toggles the "two motors" and "double current one motor" modes.

It this really screws it up, you can reset to factory default. 1) Turn off the transmitter. 2) Press and hold "Ignition", G & K. 3) While doing so, turn on the transmitter, wait for a tone.

Of course, if you're thinking the problem is the transmitter, maybe bind the tank to another Tx?

Forgive me if you've done all this already.

Bob, much thanx for the input. I havnt tried any of your suggestions, but I will.

I tried 3 other tansmitters, as well as a brand new TK 7.0 MFU & Transmitter....nothing changed. Im pretty certian having one motor in phase, and the other out, is causing my grief. This is very strange indeed. Whats puzzling as Rubicon pointed out, simply swapping polarity should have fixed it. It would appear that having one reversed motor confuses the MFU for some odd reason.

[Zippersnapper]

Bob, just to follow up (and I greatly appreciate everyones input) I found some cheap ($17) Henglong blue motors that came stock in my gearbox I bought a coulple of years ago...I'm just going to swap the motor thats wired backwards with a fresh one and see what happens.

[SoCalBobS]

It's been a long, long time, but I recall with brushed motors in aircraft, timing was an issue. I keep spares of just about every component, as you have, for "substitution troubleshooting". What's that phrase; when all else is eliminated, what's left is...and I can't remember the end.

[Zippersnapper]

LOL......or if everything else fails, throw money at it.