I'd been seeing a tracked chassis online for a while. Today I saw a 1/35 tank which that used this configuration! So if you were to build one of these in 1/16 scale how would you start? Would you use existing tank components as a base, like turrets etc.? If so, which?
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The more screws it takes to reassemble a tank, the more likely it is you left something out! -
I am tempted to do something like this, but my first concern is drive control. Four motors and gear boxes. Independent control for each? Or gang both left motors together and same with right side, so a control board would treat it as just two motors? And, what boards can handle the additional power needs? What size battery/batteries would it need?
Once that was all sorted I would kit-bash all the cosmetic stuff (hull, turret, etc) from available modern tank models.
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I'd gang left and right. The motors look small enough so two wouldn't overdraw a board. I may search voltage and amp requirements sometime. Since few of us run the Chinese T-99A, maybe that turret might do for a start.
The more screws it takes to reassemble a tank, the more likely it is you left something out!Comment
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The ZTZ 99 and 99A are decent turrets to build off of. I have used them on a few “fun” tanks.
This is an A on a T72 lower during testing (not painted) a few year ago.Comment
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So I picked up some screenshots.....I'm just doing this as a fun academic exercise, unless it gets good!
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For comparison, a HLKing Tiger is about 18" long by 9" wide. The wheels are NOT sprung. Can't have everything I guess.
The motors use some controller. I'd take them off and run them with a HL S series board.
The more screws it takes to reassemble a tank, the more likely it is you left something out!Comment
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I was just looking at that chassis. I like it better than the other one, since it gets the motors up out of the way for better ground clearance.So I picked up some screenshots.....I'm just doing this as a fun academic exercise, unless it gets good!
😎
For comparison, a HLKing Tiger is about 18" long by 9" wide. The wheels are NOT sprung. Can't have everything I guess.
The motors use some controller. I'd take them off and run them with a HL S series board.
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Or how about this into this?
The more screws it takes to reassemble a tank, the more likely it is you left something out!Comment
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Hey, it's the new Rogal Dorn Battle Tank—what an unexpected crossover. Do you perchance play or collect Warhammer 40K? They have some cool looking, if not entirely realistic, tanks in their model lineup.Comment
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I built some of their large models. I’d love it if someone were to make 1/16’ish r/c versions.The more screws it takes to reassemble a tank, the more likely it is you left something out!Comment
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Ok guys, one of my Xmas gifts was the SZDOIT T300 tracked vehicle. It was a "close my eyes and hope for the best" action. Fortunately the most critical step, will a Heng Long control board run the motors is successful!
Here's a side view of the wheels and tracks. (I got mine in black.)
So my first act was to inspect the motors. The kit is intended to be used with robotic controllers, like Arduino. The motor on the left shows an "encoder" that had been attached to the motor. I'm guessing it acts as an electronic speed control. They easily came off with a little heat from a soldering gun. The motor on the right has leads to be plugged into a Heng Long control board. The motors are geared, can't tell you the reduction. If I read the product picture online, the motors are rated for 9 to 12 volts, so 7.2 from a 2S battery is compatible. They may not climb steep grades at that voltage, but they are geared way down, so they might.
Here's basically what I got for $70 from Amazon. Tracks, wheels, hardware, motors and a three piece frame. Everything bolts together.
Size comparison. Here's the base plate next to a Heng Long Sherman deck, and the tracks next to some Pershings.
Could be fun! I'll build it up as a skeleton to see how it runs before I think about making it a sci-fi tank. Wish me luck.
The more screws it takes to reassemble a tank, the more likely it is you left something out!Comment
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Assembly was a breeze. All bolt together, steel bolts into aluminum frames. The HL board runs it just fine. At the HL voltage, ~7 volts, it moves fairly slow. I put a 7.0 board on it, I suppose I could put a 9V battery, but this is fine. I was amused by the fact that the tracks have to have the right tension, just like every other tank I've owned!
But......
The gearbox attached to one motor was broken; one gear just fell apart and dropped a piece on my workbench when I inspected it. Fortunately I bought the kit through Amazon, so I'm hoping the seller will be willing to satisfy my issue. I'll keep you all posted.The more screws it takes to reassemble a tank, the more likely it is you left something out!Comment
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If you squint your eyes, perhaps you can see where I'm going with this; double barrels, a styrene hull below the main plate, styrene sides, a raised platform over the plate for the turret rotation mechanics....lasers...a KV-2 turret would be grand!
The more screws it takes to reassemble a tank, the more likely it is you left something out!Comment
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Squint your eyes and it looks like a frog...lol.Comment
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Just a little caution for anyone thinking of getting one of these: the gear reduction box is quite small, as are the gears inside. I have one broken and am replacing it. I'm guessing that impacts to the drive train - banging into curbs, stalling the motor, etc., may break them. Flat surfaces: ok. Rubicon torture: not!
The more screws it takes to reassemble a tank, the more likely it is you left something out!Comment
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If I had the skills I would build something with dual super firing turrets along the lines of a Bolo from Keith Laumer’s books.Comment
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I finally replaced the broken motor so it runs now. My verdict? Not really suitable for conversion to r/c tank warfare. Fun though, something to play with.
I bought mine for $70, but lately I saw it on sale for $50. Shop around. For that you get the frame, wheels, motors with attached gear boxes, tracks and of course the bugeye headlights. It's marketed for use with wifi, raspberry or bluetooth, any of which you would have to supply. I chose to install a Heng Long board and speaker. It seems the motors are rated to be used for up to 9 volts. I'm using a 2S lion, so it's not running at full speed capacity.
I haven't run it on dirt or grass, since everything is soaked outside. I won't be able to experience how well the tracks stay on the wheels under stress yet. Given the large spacing between road wheels, I'm guessing there might be some detracking. It runs fine on floors and carpet. There is no suspension, the wheel axles are bolted directly onto the frame.
What you are seeing on the side to side runs is full throttle, at the aforementioned 7 volts.
One conclusion I arrived at is that our 1/16 scale tanks are robust and reliable compared to other products, like this one for instance.
The more screws it takes to reassemble a tank, the more likely it is you left something out!Comment
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Update; it runs fine in dirt and on grass.
There is one issue I wanted to share. The sprocket (on the top in this model), is not aligned with the idler and road wheels. It's a design flaw that could cause frustration with those not familiar with r/c tanks. I solved this by placing four washers on the drive axle to move the sprocket outwards. Without that, the track teeth would catch. With them, it's really smooth, as seen in the video.
Two other lesser points, that involve track tension. If not adjusted, the track simply won't stay on the sprocket. I took four links out on each side. Also, there is a tension adjustment capacity; the rear wheel can be moved forward and back a small amount, enough to tighten the track.The more screws it takes to reassemble a tank, the more likely it is you left something out!Comment
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