Hey Zippersnapper, I saw this video on YT. What's your opinion of the tank? Did you get a RTR version, or their static one? If the latter, some questions: How does gun elevation work? Servo operated? Is there a recoil function? As you can guess, I'm thinking of getting one, which would replace my Heng Long StuG III. Thanks!
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Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!
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I put a Sh*t ton of work into that tank (just so it would smoke). It comes stock with Servo Recoil & Elevation which was a major bonus, but as you know I cant stand the clark system....so in went the HL. Asisde from it being pot metal, its not a bad tank IMO. Yes, I bought the RTR -
What? Just drill two holes, how hard could that be? Kidding of course. I saw that video too, it puts out a lot of smoke. Good job. And I agree with you regarding Clark boards. I bought one to learn about it. I learned it has a mind of its own.Originally posted by Zippersnapper View PostTwenty six tanks, and not done yet!Comment
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"Do you want to know more?"
I just received and unboxed my Mato StuG III, "static IR unpainted" version. For anyone contemplating this purchase, here are some details. I own, and am contemplating selling, my Heng Long version. Nothing wrong with the HL, it's just that the Mato has more details.
- All metal, from top to bottom, although much of the top hull is cast metal, but supposedly not zinc..
- Recoil and elevation are both servo operated, servos and linkages installed. I'll be using a HL 7.1 board to run these.
- Hatches: transmission covers, commanders hatch, crew hatch, all four engine deck hatches and the gunner's MG shield are hinged. Even the periscope port in the commander's hatch is hinged separately.
- Gearboxes & gears are metal; steel. 5:1 gear ratio, for slower speed but more torque.
- Torsion bar suspension.
- All wheels have bearings.
- Metal tracks.
- Rubber tires.
- The moldings are crisper and more detailed.
In the static version, there is no speaker, board, battery & charger or smoke generator (see Z's posts). Wiring plugs need to be soldered to match your equipment.
As of today, Matomart has it on sale, but Toucan beat the price by about $10 if you negotiate, both including shipping. For comparison this kit was $450, a RTR Heng Long with fewer features is ~$200. You pays yer money and you makes yer choice!
Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!Comment
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Just learned a new thing about the HL 7.1 board; K1 & K2. They are "dimple buttons" on the board face that can reverse the direction of the servo operated gun elevation and recoil. HL should just eliminate the 7.0 board in favor of the 7.1, there are so many options built in to it.
One I use every time is eliminating the "super spin" function, which didn't exist at the time.Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!Comment
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Progress report:
I finally installed the battle electronics and got my airbrush working (sorta). So, basic paint, no decals or detailing. I found an unusual camo scheme, most likely the original grey and field addition of dark yellow.
Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!Comment
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This guy played with the big boys at June's San Diego Tank Day. It ran great!
Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!Comment
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I know you guys don't like Clark boards but our club while Tamiya protocol is skewed to using them. Would you recommend the tank otherwise? I was always told to avoid Mato full metal because of the pot metal they use but I have heard other good reviews of this particular tank.Comment
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The tank is fine. Working parts are steel, it's the hatches and detail parts that are cast metal. The suspension is torsion bar with extra spring cylinders on the first and last road wheels. Gearboxes are all steel. Barrel is steel. There are bearings on all wheels, including the return rollers. By all means use a Clark board if that's your preference. Their RTR come with TK22's which are unprogrammable. I have a Mato M-36 with a Clark TK-50 system. My recommendation is to get their "static" versions and install your own electronics. That's what I've done.
I ran mine hard and it performed well. I de-tracked twice because of dirt & rocks clogging the idler, but that was actually better than par for that course.
I also ran a Mato Sherman on that same surface. Its quirk was to have dirt and pebbles clog the track as it went over the rear idler, causing a motor stall. But like I said, I was in good company during some hard use.
Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!Comment
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Thanks. I am trying to keep from buying yet another tank but I am waffling on whether to do a T-34 or a Stug. Such an addictive hobby😀Comment
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I have a Mato all metal PZ3 which of course is the same lower as the Stug. It will de-track when the tracks get loose. I have since used some blue locktite on the idler adjuster screw and it seems to have stopped the de-tracking because it seemed like I was constantly setting the tension. I do need to use some of the black Loctite CA I have to glue the rubber on the wheels as they slip off sometimes. I've come close to loosing an outer wheel or two as they are only pressed in place. Luckily someone saw the wheels on the field so I was able to put them back on.Comment
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Bob, can you show me how to reverse the servo on my gun recoil? which dimple buttons? Thank you!Originally posted by SoCalBobS View PostComment
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Hiya David. Press K1 once. They should be labelled on the board. The last page of the 7.0/7.1 instruction sheet also shows the location of the buttons on the board. It's the second to last circuit on the label list. The servo will immediately travel to the opposite end.Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!Comment
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Oh! It is on the board. I was looking for it on the transmitter. Found it! Thank you!Comment
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