My first tank an HL Panzer III with a TK 40 clark S bus board has always given me problems. Last tank battle the IR bulb burned out. I replaced that and now the tank will not move. I figured it was a low cut off issue so I charged the battery. Lower hull still will not move. I messed with the settings changing Low Cut off threshold, Pivot non pivot. Nothing. I looked at the FET and it is fine. I am not sure how just changing the bulb cause the problem. I even changed batteries. Should I do a factory Reset? Upper hull works fine. No changes to the radio were made what so ever. Scratching my head. This board has always acted weird from time to time.
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Don't just fly--WREAK HAVOC!!! -
Does the engine startup sound come on when you flip the switch? If so, once the switch is moved from the neutral position to the drive position it still doesn't move? -
Yeah the gear and neutral switch work on the sound board. Just no movement. I keep thinking it is a programming issue as the tank was working except for the IR bulb burning out.Don't just fly--WREAK HAVOC!!!Comment
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it is definitely the Clark board. I swapped my T-55 Clark TK 50 board into the Panzer with the same battery and receiver and it works fine. I think I will factory default the board that wasn't responding and if that doesn't work send it back to Clark to fix.Don't just fly--WREAK HAVOC!!!Comment
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Good thing that you can send the board back to get repaired.Comment
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This tank has always stalled out during a battle when it shouldn't. Meaning it would just stop running. I think the board was bad out of the box. None of my other TK 50 boards have issues.Don't just fly--WREAK HAVOC!!!Comment
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Your TK40 may be damaged at this point as you have said. Seriously...I know it sounds stupid, but what kind of speaker do you have on it? As in what impedance (ohms)? The TK40 says recommended 8 ohm speaker, but if you use a 4 ohm speaker you will get sound cut outs and weird behavior from the board. I know how stupid it sounds, but it has been proven to be a problem and I have personally experienced it on my IS-2. The TK50 can use either 4 or 8 ohm speakers with no issues.Comment
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It's 8 ohm Mato. I know what your talking about. I factory reset the board last night and it still won't react so I think the board is defective. I contacted Clark, but not have heard back. The board has had issues since day one. My other Clarks which are all TK 50 have had no issues. This board was my first Clark board and I got it from Stanlley three years ago. Stanlley got into a fight with Clark over quality back then and he quit selling Clark soon after I bought this. I might have a bum board so I will let Clark let me know. The return policy seems pretty straight forward. I just want them to try and repair it.Don't just fly--WREAK HAVOC!!!Comment
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Sadly these weird problems are typical of what I have seen of Clark boards throughout the La and San Diego clubs. I do not recommend them any more as I have seen way too much of these weird failures.
Send it back for service, that’s your only option.RC tank parts and accessories I make
www.RichardSJohnson.net/id28.htmlComment
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Finally heard back from Clark They said to check the voltage at the red mark and let them know what I got. I got 0. I also didn't get any connectivity across the capacitor next to it when I checked the Ohms.Perhaps I should check some other way. I didn't have the motors plugged into the board, I will try again today.
Don't just fly--WREAK HAVOC!!!Comment
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Stanlley is selling Clark again, but I don't think he deals with any of the warranty stuff. A TK40SP I got from him finally gave up after 3 years, the amp blew. I sent it back to Clark and he fixed it for free, the whole process took about 2 months though. The TK50 is the way to go these days, much more robust amplifier. I still run some 40's in things I don't use much and I still run some TK60's.Comment
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Clark has my board now. They are repairing it. I know it will take time. The weird thing is that board never really worked good in the first place. All my TK 50 s like you alluded to work fine. TK 50 and above are the way to go.Don't just fly--WREAK HAVOC!!!Comment
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I have a TK50 that has no sound at the moment, but it was also one of the first ones that DAK got. All of the other functions seem to be working fine. I should send it in to get it fixed.Comment
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TK40 still uses the analog amp which is the cause of all the heat issues that auto shutdown that board if used on heavier tanks. TK60 also has an analog amp, but has that large heat sink to dissipate heat (TK40 lacks the heat sink).Originally posted by HDMM View Post
TK50 and TK80 go to digital amps. I don't ever need all the extra junk, er..., features... on the TK60/80, so I'll be running TK50's from now on. I still have a pletora of new/used TK22 and 24's, as I upgraded most to TK 40'/60's and then 80's and now 50's in my battling tanks.
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I like the TK50's better than the 60's actually....I just ended up with two used ones. Mainly I dislike the noisy pre-ultrasonic ESC. Other than that they are fine, but overkill for most of my needs.Originally posted by Jarlath View PostComment
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I want to thank Clark and Stian for getting my board repaired and helping me get my tank back up and running. All is good now. I chose to upgrade to a TK50 instead of getting my TK 40 back which had always had problems. Do yourself a favor and never buy any Clark board other then the TK50 and above. The 22 and 40 are old tech. I am really happy with my TK 50 boards. I now bought a sound programmer to change tank noise as well. I haven't used it but the new board came with a different Panzer III sound that gets rid of most of the squeaks and has some minor backfire noise or muffler pops. Sounds cool.Don't just fly--WREAK HAVOC!!!Comment
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The TK50 does have better sound than the 40.Comment
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Just be aware, the TK50 amp maxes out at 7W of power... vs 3W for pre-V7.0 HL MFU's. The V7.0 and newer I believe have 5W output.Comment
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