Trying to get an HL Tiger 1 that I converted to a Taigen lower hull battle ready for the Largo, FL Blitzkrieg group. The more I look at the instructions on the Clark Website the more I realize I have opened a can of worms. Is there a clear and concise place to get instructions on the install? I have the board on its way along with upgraded speaker, IR programming cable, high power IR emitter, Tamiya compatible LegoDEI apple and install base as well as the FlySky FS-i6S radio and receiver. Is it possible to wire this so it utilizes the motor elevation, motor recoil and turret rotation until I get around to swapping the recoil and elevation unit out for a servo version? It looks like everything is there on the Clark site, but so much is mixed together, it's hard to wade through and make sense of it all.
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Clark TK50ESP install?
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The Clark TK50ESP should wire identically to the standard TK20/22/24/40 series of boards.
The 8 pin connector on the TK (CN9) plugs into the 8 pin connector of the upper hull (Turret elevation,rotation, Airsoft/recoil motor, headlights/taillights & MG lights.)
The IR Receiver/LED 5 pin connects to CN2.
Airsoft/Recoil switch on standard airsoft/recoil units in stock tanks is in connected to CN3, if you do not use a high intensity flash unit.
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Your big issue will be the IR emitter plug. Heng Long TK6.0 uses a 2pin JST-XH (2.5mm pitch), TK6.1 uses a 2pin Dupont (2.54mm pitch), Older HL MFU's used a 5 pin JST-XH connector for their "Apple" and IR Emitter (connection CN2).
Clark uses a JST-GH (1.25mm pitch) for the 2Pin connection (J1) for their IR Emitter.
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To answer your question I think is Yes you can. The hard part is getting the Clark to go to page 2 to set up Bec on or off. I am pretty bad at explaining this stuff, there are people here that can give better directions. Your turret rotation motor is currently stock so you don't need to do this process until you swap with a servo. stock rotation uses the daughter board.Don't just fly--WREAK HAVOC!!!
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Thanks everyone for the responses. Jarlath - I had no idea the wiring was the same for all of those boards - that diagram is a big help. BTW - interested in one of your recoil units - will get with you soon. The tank is fairly new and has the 7.0 control board. Not sure if that will change any of the connector requirements for the upper hull wiring. The HL lower hull was giving me fits in regards to the suspension and tracks. Had multiple wheels that kept popping and jumping as well as tracks coming off of the idler and jamming up - making all kinds of crazy sounds. Purchased all of the Taigen lower components to build the hull and it now runs like a champ. Another addictive hobby - it just keeps going and going.
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You can wire the rotation motor and elevation motor directly to the 8 pin connector. There is no need for a daughter board. Most of mine are wired without a daughter board. The only tricky part about that is when you wire LEDs for the Machine Gun and lights as they share a common voltage, but use two separate ground wires. The newer version of the board (v2.1 and higher) has additional light outputs not shown on Jarlath's diagram that is if you are running SBus. It uses the previously unused channel connections on the SBus version since SBus only uses the Ch1 port.
The Clark board will default to motor control for the elevation and rotation. If you want to convert to servo in the future you have to use the programming remote to change from the default ESC setting to PWM (servo).
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Thanks for the responses - greatly appreciated. One other item. I read somewhere that you should use a lightly charged battery - not sure I'm remembering what it was specifically called. This is supposed to limit the risk of burning something up due to improper connections. Still waiting for everything to arrive, so I still have time to study and prepare. It looks like all I am missing is the correct connection for the high output IR emitter.
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Originally posted by SaltyTiger View PostTrying to get an HL Tiger 1 that I converted to a Taigen lower hull battle ready for the Largo, FL Blitzkrieg group. The more I look at the instructions on the Clark Website the more I realize I have opened a can of worms. Is there a clear and concise place to get instructions on the install? I have the board on its way along with upgraded speaker, IR programming cable, high power IR emitter, Tamiya compatible LegoDEI apple and install base as well as the FlySky FS-i6S radio and receiver. Is it possible to wire this so it utilizes the motor elevation, motor recoil and turret rotation until I get around to swapping the recoil and elevation unit out for a servo version? It looks like everything is there on the Clark site, but so much is mixed together, it's hard to wade through and make sense of it all.
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I don't like removing the 8 pin connector as it is harder to remove so I repurposed the trigger wires from the Taigen High Intensity Flash to use as intermediate connectors. Then the wires are labeled with numbers so putting them back in the right place isn't an issue. I've also wired so many Clark TK40/50 boards that I know which is which anyway.
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Originally posted by tank_me View PostI don't like removing the 8 pin connector as it is harder to remove so I repurposed the trigger wires from the Taigen High Intensity Flash to use as intermediate connectors. Then the wires are labeled with numbers so putting them back in the right place isn't an issue. I've also wired so many Clark TK40/50 boards that I know which is which anyway.
I do love the simple snipping of the smoker tubes :)
I take the smoker out of every tank I own.
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Just another tip with Clark boards I have learned. When Programming always cycle thru the code 1 time until it lands on the flash sequence that matches what you want. For Example, If I want to change the tank from heavy to medium tank I will hit the a/b button the nine times until it lands on the 2 flash for Medium, Then I shut down and pull the programmer pin off and restart the tank and test. I have noticed that most of my Clark boards need to cycle in any of the programming modes to actually confirm the correct setting. My barrel elevation pwm would never set until I did this method and it drove me crazy for awhile till I figured our why my elevation servo would just spin and spin. It was still stuck in ESC mode. Last night my new TK 50 board in my Panzer would not let the turret move until I reprogrammed the turret PWM back to ESC as I use a daughter board in the tank. Hope I make sense. Also, be very careful not to put or pull the programming pin off while the tank is still powered up. That can cause problems with the other programs on the board.Don't just fly--WREAK HAVOC!!!
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