I’m looking for my first entry level hobby grade tank, I have decided on the henglong Tiger 1 plastic version tank. I want to upgrade its durability, and performance. What are some recommendations? I intend to convert all of the ground wheels, drive sprockets, gearboxes, and tracks to metal.
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Heng Long Tiger 1, First hobby grade Tank.
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Originally posted by Quakinking1 View PostI’m looking for my first entry level hobby grade tank, I have decided on the henglong Tiger 1 plastic version tank. I want to upgrade its durability, and performance. What are some recommendations?
That being said start of with the "pro" metal edition at the minimum that has metal tracks, metal suspension, metal road wheels and the steel gear gearboxes.
The HL barrel recoil is junk and completely "out of timing" with the sound and hull movement. So if you want a realistic recoil you will have to add an aftermarket servo recoil to the turret (I like the ones that JVM3Dconepts makes available through RichJohnson here on this site). This will require you to upgrade to at least the 7.1 HL control system. There are other ways to add recoil without the upgrade, but the 7.1 has the best overall simplicity of drop in and tuning of your tanks running performance.
After you have run your tank for a while you might also consider upgraded bearing to a gearboxes and more powerful motors. These will aid in make the tank drive even smoother especially if used outdoors in soft dirt, sand and low cut grass.
Cosmetically the Tiger has a number of inaccuracies that can be addressed with aftermarket add on parts or simply left alone as 99.99% of the people that see your tank will never no.
As far as painting the tank that's up to you but it does take away for the factory toy like appearance and help elevate it to looking more like a hobby grade tank. Remember it's your tank so if you paint it,
paint it to what you like not what others like.
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Originally posted by Quakinking1 View PostPlease keep In mind that this is the only hobby grade tank I’m going to purchase for a while. I would prefer to maximize its capabilities.
(Oh, and we all said "this will be the only tank I'll buy for a while". They are like potato chips in that regard!)Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!
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Originally posted by SoCalBobS View Post
You'll find that buying a metal version as opposed to a plastic one then upgrading with separately purchased add-ons is much less expensive. Use eBay and look for versions that specify "US stock". Most of those are sold by retailers drawing from Toucan Hobby. They'll be the cheapest. Compare a metal version, then look at the costs of each upgrade and add them up. You'll see what I mean.
(Oh, and we all said "this will be the only tank I'll buy for a while". They are like potato chips in that regard!)
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Originally posted by Rubicon99 View Post
First understand all Heng Long tanks are made to be "toys" first and foremost. That is directly out of the mount of HL themselves.
That being said start of with the "pro" metal edition at the minimum that has metal tracks, metal suspension, metal road wheels and the steel gear gearboxes.
The HL barrel recoil is junk and completely "out of timing" with the sound and hull movement. So if you want a realistic recoil you will have to add an aftermarket servo recoil to the turret (I like the ones that JVM3Dconepts makes available through RichJohnson here on this site). This will require you to upgrade to at least the 7.1 HL control system. There are other ways to add recoil without the upgrade, but the 7.1 has the best overall simplicity of drop in and tuning of your tanks running performance.
After you have run your tank for a while you might also consider upgraded bearing to a gearboxes and more powerful motors. These will aid in make the tank drive even smoother especially if used outdoors in soft dirt, sand and low cut grass.
Cosmetically the Tiger has a number of inaccuracies that can be addressed with aftermarket add on parts or simply left alone as 99.99% of the people that see your tank will never no.
As far as painting the tank that's up to you but it does take away for the factory toy like appearance and help elevate it to looking more like a hobby grade tank. Remember it's your tank so if you paint it,
paint it to what you like not what others like.
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Originally posted by Quakinking1 View Post
The reason I want to purchase the plastic version, and upgrade it is because I want the building experience. I thoroughly enjoy the building process. Also, cost is not a problem with me.
Adding a proper recoil system in either version is exactly the same and is simple in itself, yet by comparison is the harder of all the upgrades to do.
As far as accuracy of detail changes its up to you which if any you change. If they bother you change them. I generally just give my tanks a good paint jobs and add a bunch of crew kit/gear to them which covers most issues and pulls the eye away. Good paint and weathering will go a lot further then chasing down and trying to fit small inaccuracies. Like I said 99.99% of people that see your tank will never know there are inaccuracies.
Now if you want a total build experience from the screws up look at getting a Tamiya Tiger. Expensive yes but you will be building a true "hobby grade" well engineered RC tank with far fewer inaccuracies.
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I might just go with this baseline as the tank. https://www.toucanhobby.com/products...42854935068922
I feel as if this is a good start, it fits the bill for what I want, and I just have to paint it, and give it metal ground wheels. Is toucan hobby a safe site to purchase from?
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One more tip to save money. Toucan in the US uses a lot of different seller names on eBay. The common factor is where they ship from. If it's from Cranbury NJ, it's a Toucan seller. These sellers often accept offers. Averages 15% plus or minus. We all buy from them.
Welcome aboard!Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!
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Originally posted by SoCalBobS View PostOne more tip to save money. Toucan in the US uses a lot of different seller names on eBay. The common factor is where they ship from. If it's from Cranbury NJ, it's a Toucan seller. These sellers often accept offers. Averages 15% plus or minus. We all buy from them.
Welcome aboard!
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I do love the Tiger I and planned to get the cheapest HL version. However as I have done some research about the HL Tiger I and found out that the chassis may not able to take all the metal parts and run properly. HL Tiger I does not use torsion bars like the others but spring loaded suspension arms. The problem is the plastic chassis are relativly soft and the wheels will be turned towards the out side when the suspension arms taking heavy load. It may cause the tracks coming off, the tracks and wheels jittering when the tank going in reverse and bent drive shaft . To complely counter these problem is to exchange the chassis to a metal one with proper torsion bar suspension system.
But I think the HL Tiger I still looks good to me for my first "mid" grade RC Tanks and loads of joy with this price tag.
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Originally posted by tchicken View PostI do love the Tiger I and planned to get the cheapest HL version. However as I have done some research about the HL Tiger I and found out that the chassis may not able to take all the metal parts and run properly. HL Tiger I does not use torsion bars like the others but spring loaded suspension arms. The problem is the plastic chassis are relativly soft and the wheels will be turned towards the out side when the suspension arms taking heavy load. It may cause the tracks coming off, the tracks and wheels jittering when the tank going in reverse and bent drive shaft . To complely counter these problem is to exchange the chassis to a metal one with proper torsion bar suspension system.
But I think the HL Tiger I still looks good to me for my first "mid" grade RC Tanks and loads of joy with this price tag.
When talking about metal weight that effects the actual hull or body of the tank, it is usually a metal turret like on the Taigen tanks.
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Originally posted by MrChef View Post
Theres a difference between "sprung" and "unsprung" weight. The Pro version Heng Long with metal tracks, wheels, sprockets and idlers doesn't tax the suspension like you are thinking. It does effect motor load and battery life.
When talking about metal weight that effects the actual hull or body of the tank, it is usually a metal turret like on the Taigen tanks.
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Originally posted by Quakinking1 View Post
Could you point out some of the inaccuracies, so I can fix them? I’m aware of a few, but I am not sure if I’m missing any.
there is also a thorough TigerI web site that I believe is run by David Byrden - anything you want to know to create a cosmetically close Tiger I can be found there.
a plastic HL Tiger I was my first plastic RC - fine for the occasional rug run.
good luck - Tigermania can become a disease!!
ETA. https://byrden.com/panzers/vehicle.html
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Originally posted by Quakinking1 View Post
What is the average time the Chinese shipping takes, I don’t mind as along as it’s here before Christmas.
dklmrc.com and kenny in Hong Kong are specialty store where you can find hard to locate upgrades or upscale models. They use only airmail from HK that takes 2-3 weeks.
Shipment from China takes at least 2 weeks if you stick with the major sellers on e-bay. Don't be tempted by the low price of unknown sellers. It may take a while to get the item from distributor and they use small shipping companies that usually take a long time. 2-3 months is not unusual.
Long shipment time is NOT a good sign. It means the item could be shipped by surface mail and has a much higher chance of getting damaged during shipping.
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