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How to make more reliable track by eliminating pin walking
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Originally posted by keilau View Post
1. Pin knurled end
2. CA glue
3. Pinched pin
4. ????
I put on all the pins, in case i need to take them off i will just heat it up with a sodder iron and it will break the CA glue for the easy pin removal, what i DONT WANT is the pins to go out and we need to stop the play or even loose the tank if we are driving in some step hills and then the tracks go off and you loose control and then the tank will fall down the mountain.
Wish you all a great weekend ahead.
Merry Christmas to all.
Im already thinking on a second one to buy just dont know wich one, i saw the tigers and it seems the metal trasks on the tigers give them much more grip.
the metal tracks on the walker buldog slide a lot on the snow because of the hard ice.
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Originally posted by cravo View Post
For now I took the advice of the CA glue dot on the knurled side and will try and provide feedback later.
I put on all the pins, in case i need to take them off i will just heat it up with a solder iron and it will break the CA glue for the easy pin removal, what I DONT WANT is the pins to go out and we need to stop the play or even loose the tank if we are driving in some step hills and then the tracks go off and you lost control and then the tank will fall down the mountain.
Wish you all a great weekend ahead.
Merry Christmas to all.
I'm already thinking on a second one to buy just dont know which one, i saw the tigers and it seems the metal tracks on the tigers give them much more grip.
the metal tracks on the walker Bulldog slide a lot on the snow because of the hard ice.
I have metal tracks on the Tiger, Pershing, T34 and Sherman. Nylon on the German Leopard 2A6. Plastic on the TD M60. I am trying to order a Hooben nylon track for the HL Merkava. You are right that metal tracks on post WW2 tanks slip more.
Accurate alignment of the drive motor axle (perpendicular to tracks) is also very important to prevent de-tracking in a HL RC tank.
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