New too the scene

[LittleRic]

But it hits the panels on the side of the tank

[Rubicon99]

But it hits the panels on the side of the tank

Thats pretty normal for the HL Abrams. It will wear a slot into the panel soon enough. Don't loose sleep over it.

[LittleRic]

Thats pretty normal for the HL Abrams. It will wear a slot into the panel soon enough. Don't loose sleep over it.

Ok thanks. also do you use your tanks in the snow if you do what do you use has water repellant

[Meter Rat]

I live on the West coast of Scotland, which is moist. We do not get much snow, but plenty of rain. Providing you do not leave them sitting water they seem to suffer no ill effect from short periods of immersion.
If you are worried about it, you could use the RC car trick of putting the MFU in a ballon or condom.

[Durahl]

All 6 of mine over power the gearboxes. Willing to put money on the fact you dont see it on YouTube is because one no wants to make a video with the tank at max volume. It's bloody annoying and loud.

Just to clarify... What I meant wasn't the Tamiya Speakers being capable enough of overpowering the noise of the Gearboxes but the Tamiya Gearboxes being silent enough to not requiring for the Speakers to be set to high enough levels for overpowering the Gearboxes inadvertently resulting in becoming uncomfortable to listen to... You're essentially trading one problem for another!?

I find neither the concept increased Sound Volume nor the purchasing of aftermarket Gearboxes enticing when it comes to solving loud Gearbox Problems.
And like I said... This isn't just an issue with the Drive Gearboxes but every Gearbox found in those Tanks - Turret Rotation, Cannon Elevation, and Gun Recoil included - for which I believe you'd be hard pressed finding a qualitative better solution.

Also something the owners of the non-Tamiya Owners may want to chip in ( I only own Models with Tamiya, SGS-Electronic or BEIER-Electronic Controllers ) is the possibility of using a single Transmitter across multiple Models. I come from the Multicopter Hobby and as such I am kinda particular about the Transmitter I'd like to use across all of my models which is possible with the Controllers found in my models ( really not into having one Transmitter for each Model )

[Rubicon99]

Just to clarify... What I meant wasn't the Tamiya Speakers being capable enough of overpowering the noise of the Gearboxes but the Tamiya Gearboxes being silent enough to not requiring for the Speakers to be set to high enough levels for overpowering the Gearboxes inadvertently resulting in becoming uncomfortable to listen to... You're essentially trading one problem for another!?

I find neither the concept increased Sound Volume nor the purchasing of aftermarket Gearboxes enticing when it comes to solving loud Gearbox Problems.
And like I said... This isn't just an issue with the Drive Gearboxes but every Gearbox found in those Tanks - Turret Rotation, Cannon Elevation, and Gun Recoil included - for which I believe you'd be hard pressed finding a qualitative better solution.

Also something the owners of the non-Tamiya Owners may want to chip in ( I only own Models with Tamiya, SGS-Electronic or BEIER-Electronic Controllers ) is the possibility of using a single Transmitter across multiple Models. I come from the Multicopter Hobby and as such I am kinda particular about the Transmitter I'd like to use across all of my models which is possible with the Controllers found in my models ( really not into having one Transmitter for each Model )

With the stock HL TX it can be used for all your tanks given that they are using the same generation of MFU, 6.0 or 7.0. So if you have a 7.0/7.1 in your tanks, you only need one 7.0 TX for all of them.

If you are a TX "snob" (sorry that is the terminology used locally to describe those that MUST have their own specific TX) then sure have at it and replace the HL MFUs with something that allows for use of other TX/RX. Personally with non HL systems I like Spectrum TX and RX. I use them in my "high end" custom builds that need more then 6 channels.

[Rubicon99]

Ok thanks. also do you use your tanks in the snow if you do what do you use has water repellant

Snow and fresh water are not a problem. You should not need any repellent.

[LittleRic]

Snow and fresh water are not a problem. You should not need any repellent.

Cool

[MrChef]

Ok thanks. also do you use your tanks in the snow if you do what do you use has water repellant

My tanks love a good run in the snow. I just make sure to let them dry out in my mud room after a good wet run. Snow isn't an issue.

[LittleRic]

My tanks love a good run in the snow. I just make sure to let them dry out in my mud room after a good wet run. Snow isn't an issue.

But do you need to dry the tracks do they rust?

[LittleRic]

Btw is it normal for my track tension being different on both sides

[tank_me]

Btw is it normal for my track tension being different on both sides

It can be slightly different. As you use the track, the track pin holes open up slightly and some of pins bend a little. Most of us use the term "track stretch", but technically it's not the track stretching. With use it does get slightly longer and the pins get looser. Each track can elongate at a different rate depending on whether the pins bend or holes widen. On my KV-1 Torro tracks, I have had to use superglue to hold the pins in now that it has run quite a bit even though the pins are knurled on one end.

[Meter Rat]

The tracks themselves will not rust if they get wet. The connecting pins will rust. I just stand mine on a towel and let it dry in front of the fire. Avoid salt water like the plague. Both tracks should have equal tension on both sides. Mine Abrams has about 3mm under the middle road wheel, with no weight on the wheels. WW2 tanks run with slack tracks, modern tanks should be tight.

[LittleRic]

It can be slightly different. As you use the track, the track pin holes open up slightly and some of pins bend a little. Most of us use the term "track stretch", but technically it's not the track stretching. With use it does get slightly longer and the pins get looser. Each track can elongate at a different rate depending on whether the pins bend or holes widen. On my KV-1 Torro tracks, I have had to use superglue to hold the pins in now that it has run quite a bit even though the pins are knurled on one end.

But i just got new tracks and i troed adjusting the track tension put there's always one side that's looser for whatever reason

[quitcherbitchen]

I don't own an Abrams, but I know on couple of my Heng Long tanks the plastic hulls tend to distort an effect the track tension. You might need to add a stiffener like Stanley Legion did in his You Tube channel. Just a thought.

[Rubicon99]

But i just got new tracks and i troed adjusting the track tension put there's always one side that's looser for whatever reason

This is correct. One side will be slightly looser then the other. The road wheels on the modern tanks (Abrams included) do not line up with the opposite side. This on real tanks is do to the torsion bar arrangement and is modeled into the HL modern tanks. As such one side tends to be slightly different then the other. Just the physics of it.

You absolutely do not need to add hull stiffening braces as long as you are using the hulls screwed together as they are intended from the factory. Hull stiffening is only recommended when you are using magnets to hold the top hull to the bottom hull. Even then without the stiffening braces your tank should be able to run quite well with the upper hull completely removed. If it can not, then you would have other issue that need to be addressed first.

For now if your tracks are staying on just go out and have fun driving your Abrams and don't sweat the small stuff. With time you will find what works and does not work for your driving style.

[Meter Rat]

I don't own an Abrams, but I know on couple of my Heng Long tanks the plastic hulls tend to distort an effect the track tension. You might need to add a stiffener like Stanley Legion did in his You Tube channel. Just a thought.

I concur. My Challenger was a pig for throwing tracks, particularly the left side, until I put in a brace. I had to add a link to each side the hull was distorting so much. Even with the hull screwed together as per the factory. It has all metal road wheels, tracks, axel support, drive and idler wheels. Now runs like a beast. The Abrams will get a brace, as soon as I have done the T72.

[LittleRic]

This is correct. One side will be slightly looser then the other. The road wheels on the modern tanks (Abrams included) do not line up with the opposite side. This on real tanks is do to the torsion bar arrangement and is modeled into the HL modern tanks. As such one side tends to be slightly different then the other. Just the physics of it.

You absolutely do not need to add hull stiffening braces as long as you are using the hulls screwed together as they are intended from the factory. Hull stiffening is only recommended when you are using magnets to hold the top hull to the bottom hull. Even then without the stiffening braces your tank should be able to run quite well with the upper hull completely removed. If it can not, then you would have other issue that need to be addressed first.

For now if your tracks are staying on just go out and have fun driving your Abrams and don't sweat the small stuff. With time you will find what works and does not work for your driving style.

So its normal for the last wheel of the tank not being fully sprung like its squats

[Rubicon99]

So its normal for the last wheel of the tank not being fully sprung like its squats

That is an issue of springs not being set correctly. You can set the suspension arms springs to the "heavy" setting and this will push the rear of the tank up. It will also help with keeping the tracks properly tensioned.

I recommend increasing the last two road wheels on each side of your Abrams to the "heavy" setting. This is done by removing the suspension arm and simply moving the spring to the next setting level. It's only seems hard the first time you do it on the first wheel the next three will be easy.

[tank_me]

That is an issue of springs not being set correctly. You can set the suspension arms springs to the "heavy" setting and this will push the rear of the tank up. It will also help with keeping the tracks properly tensioned.

I recommend increasing the last two road wheels on each side of your Abrams to the "heavy" setting. This is done by removing the suspension arm and simply moving the spring to the next setting level. It's only seems hard the first time you do it on the first wheel the next three will be easy.

I typically make the first wheel and the last wheel on a side stiffer if I can. Both of those wheels get a lot of stress as the track moves.