Tank #2 HL M26 Pershing
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They must have run out of Snow Lepards. Yours doesn't have anything glued to it. That is good. Much easier to stipple the casting texture and make weld seams. I had to break off the ammo boxes off mine and some left bigger holes then were there had they left them off. The Olive Green is better on this one too.Don't just fly--WREAK HAVOC!!! -
First order of business is getting everything inside right, minor issue in the turret and I want to reroute some of the wiring, then I'm not in love with the seam of the two turret halves, I'm tempted to fill and sand, but that means the two halves become one permanently and I think there's a few things that you can't service without separating them, I could be wrongThey must have run out of Snow Lepards. Yours doesn't have anything glued to it. That is good. Much easier to stipple the casting texture and make weld seams. I had to break off the ammo boxes off mine and some left bigger holes then were there had they left them off. The Olive Green is better on this one too.Comment
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If you plan to upgrade IR capability, or add upgraded barrel recoil, yeah you'd have to do all that beforehand. If the turret motor or elevation motor modules break, you'd have to break the seam.
First order of business is getting everything inside right, minor issue in the turret and I want to reroute some of the wiring, then I'm not in love with the seam of the two turret halves, I'm tempted to fill and sand, but that means the two halves become one permanently and I think there's a few things that you can't service without separating them, I could be wrongThe more screws it takes to reassemble a tank, the more likely it is you left something out!Comment
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I like being able to separate the turret in half. I usually magnetize the upper to the lower. Many times I've had to open a turret to unstick a servo or fix a recoil mechanism. Imagine if a soldered wire becomes disconnected. If you are leaving the BB function, the BB shooter cannot be removed without separating the turret.
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I'm not familiar enough with the nuances of military colors to be able to judge the accuracy, so I just run with what looks good to me, but a texture would definitely look cool. I plan on investing in an airbrush in the near future, but right now I'm trying to figure out my story on why I just ordered the Abrams because the wife comes home tomorrow...They must have run out of Snow Lepards. Yours doesn't have anything glued to it. That is good. Much easier to stipple the casting texture and make weld seams. I had to break off the ammo boxes off mine and some left bigger holes then were there had they left them off. The Olive Green is better on this one too.Comment
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The airbrush will be as big a rabbit hole as buying tanks. I ordered a ton of paint from Fusion Hobbies. For the Pershing you only really need Olive Drab and Buff. If you watch Night Shift on You Tube he has excellent tutorials in painting an M29 which is close to a Pershing. My Pershing was painted using his formulas. Use Bondo glaze for the texture. It works way better then Night Shift's formula.Don't just fly--WREAK HAVOC!!!Comment
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Don't try to tell the tank crew in a battlefield what military color to use. They use whatever happened to be available. Brand new, fresh out of factory ones are exception, but good reference for modeler.
I'm not familiar enough with the nuances of military colors to be able to judge the accuracy, so I just run with what looks good to me, but a texture would definitely look cool. I plan on investing in an airbrush in the near future, but right now I'm trying to figure out my story on why I just ordered the Abrams because the wife comes home tomorrow...
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I used to have 7 airbrushes and 3 1/16 RC tanks. After I retired, my RC tank inventory also built up to 7 in the last 4 years. LOL.
I stick with HL in recent years. They are cheaper than Iwata or Harder & Steenbeck airbrushes. Avoid cheap airbrush and small compressor from China. They use softer steel for the airbrush needle and poor material for the compressor piston seals. They may be ok when new, but do not last. You can get Iwata gears at Hobby Lobby cheaper than online using their coupons, 40% off every week. Yes, it is a deep, deep rabbit hole. My favorite all-purpose airbrush is the Iwata HP-CS Eclipse Airbrush. Compress air can gets expensive really fast. You need a good compressor that is quiet for indoor use.
https://www.google.com/search?sca_esv=599820148&q=airbrush&tbm=shop&sourc e=lnms#spd=3257295434480379164
Amazon.com: Iwata-Medea - Power Jet Pro Air Compressor (IS975) : Arts, Crafts & Sewing
My compressor is a Paasche DA400. I got it when Paasche still made their compressor in Taiwan. A Taiwan made compressor was expensive, but reputed to be durable. I added a storage tank myself. $10 for the surplus tank plus $20 for other hardware. Very quiet and very steady airflow for many years.
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oddly my wife works at Hobby LobbyI used to have 7 airbrushes and 3 1/16 RC tanks. After I retired, my RC tank inventory also built up to 7 in the last 4 years. LOL.
I stick with HL in recent years. They are cheaper than Iwata or Harder & Steenbeck airbrushes. Avoid cheap airbrush and small compressor from China. They use softer steel for the airbrush needle and poor material for the compressor piston seals. They may be ok when new, but do not last. You can get Iwata gears at Hobby Lobby cheaper than online using their coupons, 40% off every week. Yes, it is a deep, deep rabbit hole. My favorite all-purpose airbrush is the Iwata HP-CS Eclipse Airbrush. Compress air can gets expensive really fast. You need a good compressor that is quiet for indoor use.
https://www.google.com/search?sca_esv=599820148&q=airbrush&tbm=shop&sourc e=lnms#spd=3257295434480379164
Amazon.com: Iwata-Medea - Power Jet Pro Air Compressor (IS975) : Arts, Crafts & Sewing
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Then I would use her discount on the Iwata CS-HP: https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Ho...e1996691f9c1bc
Like it much better than the Paache Talon I bought first. The Iwata clogs less, has a better finish, and is easier to clean.Comment
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I'll have to let her know to look, she got me a brand Silhouette vinyl cutter on clearance for $5, was last years model, got stuck on a shelf and was supposed to have been clearanced out months ago, boss asked her she'd pay for it and she said $5, and he said sold ")Comment
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Paasche Talon is billed as a detailed airbrush. Try to bend the Iwata needle and the Paasche needle slightly and see how they spring back. Iwata just use better material than any American brand airbrush.
Then I would use her discount on the Iwata CS-HP: https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Ho...e1996691f9c1bc
Like it much better than the Paache Talon I bought first. The Iwata clogs less, has a better finish, and is easier to clean.
For the 1/16 scale tank models, the Iwata CS-HP Eclipse is the best choice if you do not want to keep many airbrushes like I do.
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