My Roban 700 Apache "Longbow" build
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Yes, once I figured out where those parts went I used them. They came with my heli. I am using an Egodrift Tengu 4525HS, 515kV motor. No problem on the questions. Happy to help.
Oh okay thank you. I went to their website and of course they are out of stock lol. Are you using the motor shaft support as well? https://scaleflying.de/product_info....t-support.html
What motor are you using? Thank you for answering all of my questions!Leave a comment:
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Oh okay thank you. I went to their website and of course they are out of stock lol. Are you using the motor shaft support as well? https://scaleflying.de/product_info....t-support.html
What motor are you using? Thank you for answering all of my questions!Leave a comment:
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Could you tell the difference with the helical gear and pinion? Where did you get those?
I glued the 6mm Depron to the nacelle side walls with UHU Poor cement. It won't attack the foam. Every installation is a little different and what sounds good in one fuselage may not is another. It really is a matter of trial and error. So far I like the sound of the exciters in the Apache in combination with the helical gear and pinion. I might try adding a sub-woofer to get a little more of that blade popping bass just to see how it sounds.Leave a comment:
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I glued the 6mm Depron to the nacelle side walls with UHU Poor cement. It won't attack the foam. Every installation is a little different and what sounds good in one fuselage may not is another. It really is a matter of trial and error. So far I like the sound of the exciters in the Apache in combination with the helical gear and pinion. I might try adding a sub-woofer to get a little more of that blade popping bass just to see how it sounds.
So do you like the sound from the two inch exciters? What did you use to mount them (epoxy, glue etc). I have a 700 cobra I am working on... I'm thinking about using 2.5 speakers in a small box mounted in front of the exhaust.... simply b/c I didn't think the exciters would produce good sound....Leave a comment:
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So do you like the sound from the two inch exciters? What did you use to mount them (epoxy, glue etc). I have a 700 cobra I am working on... I'm thinking about using 2.5 speakers in a small box mounted in front of the exhaust.... simply b/c I didn't think the exciters would produce good sound....Leave a comment:
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I will be able to take detailed pics of all the parts and what mods were made when ever I happen to get the helical main gear and pinion I have ordered from ScaleFlying.de as I will have to tear down the mechanics to swap the parts out. I ordered them over a month ago but DHL is not the most expeditious carrier.Leave a comment:
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That is amazing work do you have more detailed pics from top to bottomHey Alpha, I have not articulated the MG or TADS at this time. Right now I am working on opening up the passageways above and behind the pilot in front of the swash plate. I also have a custom beefy aluminum hinge coming from Dustin Holloman of Raven Rock Machining to allow the horizontal stab to pivot. The fixed Radome mod is pretty slick and follows the basic design used by a gentleman named Darrell Sprayberry who built a beautiful OH-58 Kiowa with a functional pod on top of it. Mine uses a 12mm OD case hardened hollow main shaft with a 6mm brass rod inside it. The rod is fixed to the frame with a 3D printed bracket I designed. The base of the Radome has two 12mm ID x 18mm OD x 4mm thick bearings that ride on the main shaft. The head us bored through so the shaft sticks up above it about 25mm. A new main gear hub had to be machined to provide more material to secure threaded grub screws that had their ends turned down to act as pins that engage holes in the main shaft. Essentially taking the place of any Jesus bolts. A steel collar with threaded pins replaced the snap ring on the bottom of the main shaft. For the head, it uses hex head screws to clamp it to the main shaft but the thickness of the material where the Jesus bolt is located is not sufficient to hold threaded pins. The fix was to get a 3/4" ID split collar from a local Ace Hardware store and let the threaded pins secure into it. Then it was simply clamped on the head so that the pins passed through the Jesus bolt holes into the mainshaft. Attached are some pictures. Screws in the upper part of the Radome secure it to flats on the brass rod. The top of the Radome has pins that engage the base of it with the bearings. Doing this keeps everything running true.
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RCJD, You can still use a setting solution. Micro-Scale "Micro Sol" is applied after a decal is on the model. It will soften the decal and as it dries it will 'settle' onto the surface and minimize the 'silvering' you are experiencing. You can keep applying it, too, though it will be pretty much a 'one side at a time' task since it is best to let it lay it on a flat surface and allowed to dry thoroughly. It works, just takes time. Best, LBLeave a comment:
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What if you went over the whole thing with some matte clear coat to capture the decals ? Looks great btw.Leave a comment:
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I know what you mean about the water slide decals, I tried to put them on my AH-6, not so good, the next morning, they peeled right back off, sent an email to Callie with measurements and she came through with some nice ones, can't wait to see how they look, hope yours stay on your Apache, makes it really look great.Leave a comment:
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Thank you sir. Been working on this for almost 6 months now. When complete I plan to post a list of everything I have done on it.Leave a comment:
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Looks awesome Steve 👍
I still haven't talked myself into getting one yet, still got my heart set on the Cobra, but when I keep looking at yours, well it is growing on me
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