Aspire sound card and Blown Speakers

[Hugh Wiedman]

Is anyone else having any problems with blown TT-25's with the Aspire Sound Card?

A couple of days ago, I flew one of my B-24's that has the Aspire Card, with the multi-engine sound pack and 2 TT-25's. On the third flight, the sound quit mid flight, and after taking it home and checking, BOTH TT-25's were deader than a door nail. This was probably the 20th flight or so and my other B-24 has about the same flights on it with no problems. I've been using these sound cards for about 3 years and have 4 planes with the older V.4.1 cards with 2 transducers and those planes between them have over 100 flights with never a problem The board is slightly smaller (so it fits in tighter spaces) and the sound is good (no whistles though), but not quite as good as the Aspire card. The V 4.1 has been discontinued however.

I also have 4 Aspire cards and since they first came out, I've had multiple issues. I used to get them directly from Andrew and MR RC Sound, but he stopped selling direct recently and MRC does it-which is fine with me. The first 3 Aspire boards I had would fry a transducer within the first 3 flights. Andrew eventually replaced all my parts but I think he got tired of dealing with me. He told me that on some, he had gotten a bad volume knob, which he replaced on a couple of mine that were bad. He also replaced some TT-25's cause he told me he had a couple issues with the manufacturing and 1 batch was bad. He also reduced the voltage adjustment pot (whatever that is) on a couple that were bad.

In the meantime, on all my set-ups, I added heat sink to all the TT-25's and put "hood scoops" on all planes to channel cool air (as if we have any of that in Florida), directly on the TT-25's and the board. Since doing that, I haven't had a problem. Then, out of the blue, I blow 2 at once. I also have the volume reduced to about 75%, just before the point that the volume starts to noticeably go down, as Andrew told me that will reduce the heat levels and output better and there is no real loss in volume. Some sounds heat up the board and transducers more than others, and the "hottest" is the double wasp with whistle-also one of the best.

I just finished replacing both TT-25's (keep plenty in spare's just for this), but each time I replace one, the foam get's a little thinner a weaker. Just glad the board itself wasn't fried, which was my first thought.

Any thoughts out there would be most appreciated. I've attached photos of the TT-25's with the heat sinks and one of my typical "hood scoop" set-up.

[brk6188]

I Hugh, I have an Aspire in my Corsair and kept upping the volumne until it overcame the prop noise and those TT-25's do get HOT. Have been talking with Paul about the whistle -- mine comes on at random, not just in a dive, evidently the angle of the board relative to flight direction is critical. As of now, no whistle for me. My board also gets to hot to touch and not just at the heat sink. Paul says HOT TT-25's are normal. He did not say if heat or volumne was the primary killer of TT-25's. Does the addition of an heat sink change the dynamics of the TT's ? Anyway, I have not blown a TT yet -- touch wood !

Re the whistle, he is going to provide me with directions to enable the whistle via a Tx switch so that it can be energized on demand and not rely on the gyro sensor.

I also found out that a 3x1000mah pack was the minimum power for the Aspire -- it was draining my 600's in less than one flight ! Best bet would be to solder a JST connector off of the ESC/battery plug, plugging into the balance connector would sure unbalance a few cells.

Haven't helped you I know but thought some observations might help others.

[Hugh Wiedman]

I Hugh, I have an Aspire in my Corsair and kept upping the volumne until it overcame the prop noise and those TT-25's do get HOT. Have been talking with Paul about the whistle -- mine comes on at random, not just in a dive, evidently the angle of the board relative to flight direction is critical. As of now, no whistle for me. My board also gets to hot to touch and not just at the heat sink. Paul says HOT TT-25's are normal. He did not say if heat or volumne was the primary killer of TT-25's. Does the addition of an heat sink change the dynamics of the TT's ? Anyway, I have not blown a TT yet -- touch wood !

Re the whistle, he is going to provide me with directions to enable the whistle via a Tx switch so that it can be energized on demand and not rely on the gyro sensor.

I also found out that a 3x1000mah pack was the minimum power for the Aspire -- it was draining my 600's in less than one flight ! Best bet would be to solder a JST connector off of the ESC/battery plug, plugging into the balance connector would sure unbalance a few cells.

Haven't helped you I know but thought some observations might help others.

brk6188,
Thanks for the input, any observations are most appreciated. The heat sink does help on the TT-25's, noticed that without them, you can cook a steak well done, and with them medium rare. Since putting on the heat sinks and adding the additional air scoops (although here in Florida the "cool air" is still 90), of the 18 TT-25's I have, it seemed to cure the problem (although as I said, I've never blown one on a V4.1 board, only the Aspire). That's why I was so surprised to blow both in my B-24. I have reduced the volume a bit, hope that helps. I too am installing it in the 1600mm Corsair, although still working on the modifications and livery, so I haven't got any experience to share. Where did you install the sound card and transducers in your Corsair?

[brk6188]

Couple of pics of the Aspire in my Corsair

[Hugh Wiedman]

Couple of pics of the Aspire in my Corsair

Thanks Barry,

Looks nice and compact. I'll do the same location with mine, appreciate the tip.:corsair

[Hugh Wiedman]

Couple of pics of the Aspire in my Corsair

Hey Barry,

One thing I forgot to ask you, of the 16 TT-25's I've installed in various planes, I always use epoxy after ruffing up the foam and creating small holes in the foam with a toothpick for better adhesion. The only problem is if I need to remove and replace one, they're sometimes a pain to get out without taking a lot of foam with it. Someone suggested I use foam tac (which I use in other places with foam). My only concern is that it is a little more flexible after drying than epoxy and will it continue to hold after many uses. What do you use?:Thinking:

[brk6188]

Hugh, on this one I "think" I used Welders but have used UHU POR on previous TT mounting; never had one fall off ! Either way have only used contact cements, I would think epoxy would be too rigid and it does not bond perfectly to EPO anyway?

I do wipe EPO foam areas with acetone before any gluing, doubt that you can ever remove a correctly mounted TT without destroying the mating foam --- less expensive fix than destroying a TT anyway!

[KatManDEW]

Couple of pics of the Aspire in my Corsair

How did you attach the Aspire? Some kind of glue? How about the heat sinks - epoxy? And finally, what about attaching the TT-25's? It's not a flat surface on the inside of the fuselage.

One final question (I hope), what's that material on the battery tray?

Thanks!

[Hugh Wiedman]

How did you attach the Aspire? Some kind of glue? How about the heat sinks - epoxy? And finally, what about attaching the TT-25's? It's not a flat surface on the inside of the fuselage.

One final question (I hope), what's that material on the battery tray?

Thanks!

Not sure this helps, but I always attach the Aspire Cards with Velcro from Home Depot, the kind that you peel and stick, works great for me. This way you can always pop it off if need be. If you buy the heat sinks on Amazon like I did, they come with a 3M double side sticky tape that works great, similar to that used for receiver placement but micro thin and heat resistant. Attaching the TT-25's should be on a flat surface and I use epoxy, just be careful not to use too much that it gets on the rubber of the speaker. If you have to, glue in some extra foam with foam tac or even thin plywood on any uneven surface, as long as the majority of the ring that is glued is on foam.

[KatManDEW]

Not sure this helps, but I always attach the Aspire Cards with Velcro from Home Depot, the kind that you peel and stick, works great for me. This way you can always pop it off if need be. If you buy the heat sinks on Amazon like I did, they come with a 3M double side sticky tape that works great, similar to that used for receiver placement but micro thin and heat resistant. Attaching the TT-25's should be on a flat surface and I use epoxy, just be careful not to use too much that it gets on the rubber of the speaker. If you have to, glue in some extra foam with foam tac or even thin plywood on any uneven surface, as long as the majority of the ring that is glued is on foam.

Thank you very much Hugh!