Orange receivers morphed to Lemon Receivers

[Grossman56]

PM'd him, I'll let you know what he says or maybe he'll drop in here and share the knowledge.

Grossman56

[Dewey H Lee]

I'm sure he will be able to get you in the right direction. He did post information for me in Lemon Receivers with Stabilization just below your thread here.

[Grossman56]

Hey guys, Xviper was good enough to pass on this information to me, I asked if he'd mind if I posted it here for all to learn by, so thanks to him, here's some great info on Lemon receivers with stabilization:

Dan, I can give you the programming that I use on my old DX8 for my 70mm Yak 130. It needs 6-ch. First thing is to bind the RX so you can use the bind port for the retracts (if you have any). Basically, the gear switch is used to turn the stab ON/OFF. The "MIX/HOLD" is used for the retracts, so you can no longer use that for "throttle cut", which I generally do on other planes. In "wing type", you must select 1 AIL, 1 Flap if you want the flap menu to show up in the MAIN SCREEN.
Switch Select menu is as follows:
Trainer:Inh Flap: Inh
F Mode: Inh Mix: Aux2
Gear: Gear Aux2:Inh
L Trim: Inh R Trim: Inh
Knob:Aux3

In the Function List, Throttle Cut is Inh.
With this receiver, "bind" port is like Aux2, but you inhibit that switch and assign the MIX/HOLD to do that job (see above). You will note that the "gear" port is empty. If you do not have retracts, then this isn't an issue and you don't have to do anything as the bind port remains empty.
If you so choose (see Lemon instructions), the knob (Aux3) automatically becomes a variable gain adjuster so you can fiddle with gain while in the air. Make sure you have some altitude before you play with it and be ready to flip the gear switch to turn it off if the plane begins to oscillate. It is more likely to oscillate at high speed. Set all the gain pots at about their mid points. Rudder is the least sensitive so it's not that important but dial it to the mid point anyway. That would correspond to about "12 O'clock". Now the knob on your TX acts like an adjuster that will give you zero to 100% travel (turning clockwise) on the gain (which is starting off at about 50%, being at the mid point). (IE, full travel of the knob now gives you about zero to 50% gain). It takes very little gain to make the stabilizer effective on this RX. My gain knob is somewhere about 1/2 way between zero and dead center where you will hear the centering beep on the TX for the knob. (IE, therefore, in reality, the actually gain is about 25% of 50%, or about 12.5% - I hope you see what I mean.) If you want the knob to be less "touchy", then turn the pots to less than mid point (counter-clock from 12 O'clock) and you can turn the knob more to get optimal gain and stabilization.
Of course, the plane should be trimmed already with stabilizer OFF. Start about there and check the control surfaces for movement and take off. Increase speed to see if the oscillation begins. If it doesn't, slowly turn the knob clockwise and back off a bit as soon as oscillation begins. You've now got the optimal gain setting for that plane.
A prop plane that is slower can use more gain. A prop plane that is fast will use less gain.
Dave.