Official 3DP Thread

[T-CAT]

Awesome designs, guys.

[Gilatrout]

Getting closer on my MG-15 remix for the He111. I'm amazed how stupid thin a resin printer can print.

This one is still too fragile to mount in the model. I designed it so I could remove the barrel for transport. I'm going to have to add some reenforcement to the receiver side that will also provide a gluing surface for the gun.

Files available on Thingiverse now

MG-15 for Scale Models by Gilatrout - Thingiverse

[crxmanpat]

[QUOTE=Gilatrout;n297738]

This inspired me to design a mount for the newest Spektrum 8 Channel Receiver AR8360T. I've posted it to Thingiverse for anyone interested.

Spektrum AR8360T Receiver Mount by Gilatrout - ThingiverseVery nice! I love printing stuff to mount my equipment to. No more messing around with velcro or tape, and it stays nice and secure.

[Gilatrout]

I really like that setup, simple and secure. Also easy to service if needed

This inspired me to design a mount for the newest Spektrum 8 Channel Receiver AR8360T. I've posted it to Thingiverse for anyone interested.

Spektrum AR8360T Receiver Mount by Gilatrout - Thingiverse

[flyAA]

Resin printers are capable of extremely thin walls. Like tissue thin. However, this sacrifices strength.

A major factor is how the 3d model is designed, and how strong does it need be. When printing a hollow model, it will require interior support or infill. The degree of infill is partly a function of strength and also the reality of supporting the shape as it is printed against the forces of gravity.

How the object is shaped and is printed also matter. Flat plates and boxes are usually better with filament printers because of how gravity affects the printing process.

Resin, I've found, is quite brittle. This can change what printer you use depending on where the part is installed

So what it comes down to is really more about how the object was defined and what shape is better suited for the printer.

Assuming the part is designed well, balancing strength and function, there shouldn't be an appreciable weight difference between the output except in the case of large hollow elements that don't need strength and detail is important. For example pilot figures. Otherwise go for the resin where you need exquisite detail, and filament when and where it works best.

My experience is that Elbees designs are extremely well done and that you don't want to sacrifice the details. The printing company can hollow out anything to make it lighter for printing. I would go with the resin for cockpit details. You won't be disappointed

Awesome write up, thanks so much! Resin it is!

[Gilatrout]

Question for you guys. I’m getting the 3d printed cockpit upgrade for my f-18 (thanks Elbee!). The printing company im using is recommending using a resin print vs the standard plastic filament because of all the small details. Does anyone know how the two compare weight wise? If plastic is significantly lighter i will sacrifice some detail.

thanka guys!

Resin printers are capable of extremely thin walls. Like tissue thin. However, this sacrifices strength.

A major factor is how the 3d model is designed, and how strong does it need be. When printing a hollow model, it will require interior support or infill. The degree of infill is partly a function of strength and also the reality of supporting the shape as it is printed against the forces of gravity.

How the object is shaped and is printed also matter. Flat plates and boxes are usually better with filament printers because of how gravity affects the printing process.

Resin, I've found, is quite brittle. This can change what printer you use depending on where the part is installed

So what it comes down to is really more about how the object was defined and what shape is better suited for the printer.

Assuming the part is designed well, balancing strength and function, there shouldn't be an appreciable weight difference between the output except in the case of large hollow elements that don't need strength and detail is important. For example pilot figures. Otherwise go for the resin where you need exquisite detail, and filament when and where it works best.

My experience is that Elbees designs are extremely well done and that you don't want to sacrifice the details. The printing company can hollow out anything to make it lighter for printing. I would go with the resin for cockpit details. You won't be disappointed

[flyAA]

Question for you guys. I’m getting the 3d printed cockpit upgrade for my f-18 (thanks Elbee!). The printing company im using is recommending using a resin print vs the standard plastic filament because of all the small details. Does anyone know how the two compare weight wise? If plastic is significantly lighter i will sacrifice some detail.

thanka guys!

[Gilatrout]

Getting closer on my MG-15 remix for the He111. I'm amazed how stupid thin a resin printer can print.

This one is still too fragile to mount in the model. I designed it so I could remove the barrel for transport. I'm going to have to add some reenforcement to the receiver side that will also provide a gluing surface for the gun.

[Dirty Dee]

The Lippisch flies . I'm planning on getting some more flying on it this weekend, as the maiden was a quick outing during my lunch break from work. It was a bit pitch sensitive, so the maiden was a bit brief. I hope to nail down the CG and control throws this weekend and wring it out. I'll be posting the STLs to cults3d shortly after.

[Elbee]

Just picked up an elegoo Saturn for detailed prints. Any advice for someone new to resin printing?

Hey GT, Set up a ventilated cleaning station or area for sure . Patience will be required when curing out the parts. Great addition to your shop. Looking forward to seeing your prints. Best, LB

[Gilatrout]

Just picked up an elegoo Saturn for detailed prints. Any advice for someone new to resin printing?

[vduniec]

Fantastic work Dee.

I have 2 projects in the works. One I hope to have flying this week assuming I can get the CG figured out. The other I hope for spring

[Dirty Dee]

I have 2 projects in the works. One I hope to have flying this week assuming I can get the CG figured out. The other I hope for spring

[Elbee]

W45, She's a real beauty. Bravo Zulu, Sir. Best, LB

[walkerm45]

Well Elbee,

I promised to include some better pics of my 3D printed Pt Boat back in the spring, before the S hit the fan. Well here they are.... the picture quality is not as good as I had hoped for, used my old phone.... The boat uses 3 out runners, 4mm shafts, and props from the designer. I re-designed the motor mounts from 1 for each per motor, to a 3 motor mount incorporated into a single mount, All the internal equipment is set on risers that insert into donuts on the floor. All equipment can be removed for servicing. The hull is open all the way, front to back, with a bilge pump at the stern. The esc's are 30 amp, water cooled, all are fed from a 3s2p Lipo.... Could go to 4s2p if needed..... The most difficult part, of this project, was coming up with the crew figures. They are sliced and diced from all over the internet.
This project has been a lot of fun, but now I'm looking forward to heading to the lake for some fun. later, Mike

[Elbee]

Nope. Like you, I have not seen many new posts. Best, LB

[walkerm45]

Was this site discontinued?

[rifleman_btx]

I did something similar for my Graupner receivers. And the new Mig even has a wood tray already glued into the forward section so it was easy to secure. I made these mainly for my turbines, but works good for the foamies too!

I really like that setup, simple and secure. Also easy to service if needed

[T-CAT]

I did something similar for my Graupner receivers. And the new Mig even has a wood tray already glued into the forward section so it was easy to secure. I made these mainly for my turbines, but works good for the foamies too!

Great job, Pat! I love it.

[T-CAT]

T-CAT, great work, Sir. You have me thinking about a better arrangement for the F-18. I would like to move all the PnP items lower in the groove and move the battery tray aft and use the battery better for CG. I just dislike the idea of adding 'dead weight' to achieve proper CG. Possibly some type of threaded adjustable tray where the battery is fixed to the tray and only the tray is moved. Could be reinventing the wheel, however. Best, LB

Thanks, LB. I appreciate it. I definitely understand where you're coming from about not wanting dead weight. That really is the pitts. Ha-ha. A new adjustable tray would be absolutely fantastic.

I have attached a pic. of what I did with my Freewing F/A-18C 90mm EDF jet. I moved the battery tray towards the rear, cut out small light wire relief slits in the tray, secured the MCB below the battery tray and used extensions to put the RX closer to the front out of the way of other electronics. Then, I extended the battery compartment by carefully slicing away a new hatch just aft of where the original one ended, relocated the latch and combined both sections via glue and carbon spars to allow for a new longer canopy/cockpit hatch. I was able to place batteries all the way back to the foam bulkhead if needed and depending on the weight of the batteries I intended to use that flight session.

Don't mind the RX antenna and redundant RX placement in the pic, as none of it was secured yet since it was right after the modding and the picture was taken to show RX placement only.