Official 3DP Thread

[Elbee]

Flightline F4u Corsair Cowl Flap Modification.zip

Hello Printers and RC Enthusiasts everywhere, I received a few requests for my Flightline Corsair Cowl Flap modification design and figured if I wait to post these until I am finished, it is possible MotionRC will have released a new Corsair. So here you go. Enjoy and happy printing. Best, LB

[radfordc]

Great looking boat! Ive starting printing mine. Just curious, did you apply anything to the hull for waterproofing?

No...but I probably should have. You have to add a lot of weight to the hull to get it to float right and that puts stress on the hull when transporting. Mine hull has cracked once and repaired with CA glue. I printed mine with HIPS, but should have used ABS instead.

She looks good on the water... https://youtu.be/LyOKT5Bxqi0

[CM_Aero]

Here's mine.

Great looking boat! Ive starting printing mine. Just curious, did you apply anything to the hull for waterproofing?

[rifleman_btx]

WM, No one has ever asked that question, but my vote goes to anything 3DP that is RC related. FIle sharing, new projects, assisting with design, it is what we make it. Best, LB

I second that!

[radfordc]

Here's mine.

[Elbee]

Is anyone interested in 3D printed ships, or is this primarily an airplane talk site?

WM, No one has ever asked that question, but my vote goes to anything 3DP that is RC related. FIle sharing, new projects, assisting with design, it is what we make it. Best, LB

[walkerm45]

Is anyone interested in 3D printed ships, or is this primarily an airplane talk site?

[Elbee]

DD, You do amazing work, sir, a most talented guy. Bravo Zulu. Best, Steve

[Dirty Dee]

Should have a maiden on a new plane in 2 months

[walkerm45]

Radfordc post 1007: Yes, that is the PT Boat files that I used...... I also had a gentleman on cgtrader produce a complete 1/20th crew of stl files, for the boat, 10 crewmen. Did a nice job, and a lot cheaper than the finished products for sale on the internet...... the hull was printed on an Ender 5 Plus, and all other parts that fit the Prusa I3Mk3s bed, were printed on it. Prusa is much better at detail......walkerm45

[Elbee]

Very nice! I have considered a PT boat before but haven't done one yet. Is this the file you used..

Thanks for posting this. very nice, indeed. Best, LB

[radfordc]

Well Elbee,

I promised to include some better pics of my 3D printed Pt Boat back in the spring, before the S hit the fan. Well here they are....

Very nice! I have considered a PT boat before but haven't done one yet. Is this the file you used.... https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-mo...led-model-boat

I have done one 3d printed boat. It uses twin motors and sails very well.

[T-CAT]

Freewing F-18C Nose Gear Door modification to the modification.
Hey 3DP'ers, whoops that doesn't sound quite right, anywho, I have designed a different Nose Gear Door Actuator for the Freewing F-18C. Yes, I am still working on this project.

I had used 2 servos which I modded to linear movement, one on each door and ran into difficulty with it functioning well with the radio versus a servo tester. There was too much play in that design, frankly, and was never 100% consistent without some servo hum. In my mind anytime I can eliminate a servo, it's for the good.

The NG Doors are now mechanically operated via a cross-member and held open with compression spring tension. Compression to fully close the doors is less than 5 ounces of downward force.

Myriad electron problems have been solved, though the cylinder design is in it's 2nd iteration and the cross-member took 3 shots to take the loads and not distort or bind.

This works quite well and I saved just over an ounce of weight as a side benefit.

Note: The Numbered Photo in sequence:

1) These are the 'ball/socket' links to the NG door pivot. This was my first attempt at a 'print-in-place' design that requires only a single print for a 2-part movable unit. This really just allowed me to make the part smaller and accomplish the same thing in principle. I could have probably gotten even smaller, but this works well. I have printed several articulating models that use this 'print-in-place' feature and it is fascinating to do but not as easy as I thought to design.

2) This is the Cross-Member which required a couple-three 'try it again, dummy' to get the right contact point and depth as to not interfere with the strut or wheels and not bind. The Fuel tubing cushion helps with tolerance and saves the strut paint.
3) This is a redesign of the Inner NG top panel with mounting for the compression spring cylinders. Getting the original out was more work than the redesign.

Best as always, LB

Truly phenomenal! Thanks a ton for sharing. This is very inspirational design work.

[Elbee]

Freewing F-18C Nose Gear Door modification to the modification.
Hey 3DP'ers, whoops that doesn't sound quite right, anywho, I have designed a different Nose Gear Door Actuator for the Freewing F-18C. Yes, I am still working on this project.

I had used 2 servos which I modded to linear movement, one on each door and ran into difficulty with it functioning well with the radio versus a servo tester. There was too much play in that design, frankly, and was never 100% consistent without some servo hum. In my mind anytime I can eliminate a servo, it's for the good.

The NG Doors are now mechanically operated via a cross-member and held open with compression spring tension. Compression to fully close the doors is less than 5 ounces of downward force.

Myriad electron problems have been solved, though the cylinder design is in it's 2nd iteration and the cross-member took 3 shots to take the loads and not distort or bind.

This works quite well and I saved just over an ounce of weight as a side benefit.

Note: The Numbered Photo in sequence:

1) These are the 'ball/socket' links to the NG door pivot. This was my first attempt at a 'print-in-place' design that requires only a single print for a 2-part movable unit. This really just allowed me to make the part smaller and accomplish the same thing in principle. I could have probably gotten even smaller, but this works well. I have printed several articulating models that use this 'print-in-place' feature and it is fascinating to do but not as easy as I thought to design.

2) This is the Cross-Member which required a couple-three 'try it again, dummy' to get the right contact point and depth as to not interfere with the strut or wheels and not bind. The Fuel tubing cushion helps with tolerance and saves the strut paint.

3) This is a redesign of the Inner NG top panel with mounting for the compression spring cylinders. Getting the original out was more work than the redesign.

Best as always, LB

[rifleman_btx]

Very cool

[crxmanpat]

Printing up an Akira-class starship for a friend of mine. This is from the ST:TNG universe.

[Gary9648]

Thank you for the advice. I look into it next week.

[Griffon Wings]

I’m kind of new with the 3d printer , but , absolutely addictive as planes are . Lot to learn but i love anything coming out of mine ( Ender 3 pro).
On the mig -29 looks good. I need to learn how to do the inside empty to reduce weight.
often i wish to have the second one running at the same time, am i the only one ?

[Elbee]

Well I guess an old dog at 72 can learn a new trick. I just purchased a Ender 5 pro 3D printer and am awaiting arrival. Looking forward to getting advice on where to download programs for parts and advice on setting my printer up. Anyone here have the 5 pro?

G9, Welcome to the wonderful world of 3D printing. Your life will never be the same. I have a Prusa i3Mk3 upgraded to an 'Mk 3S', however, I've only been at this for about 2 seasons. One big suggestion would be the slicer program you use. Prusa PE is easy and works well with 95% of 3D printers. The download is free and updates are frequent. The latest version has pre installed setups for many mfr brands other than Prusa. It is phenomenal in my opinion. Also, your filament choices will be a factor. Most of us print in PLA, ASA (ABS), or PETG. The latter two benefit from building in an enclosure. I do recommend that as a secondary project, easily done by ewe-toobing 3D printer enclosures and looking at might work for your workspace. PLA is the easiest filament to print, but is temperature sensitive after the fact. Great for airplane detail parts such as cockpits, grills, short antennae, etc. As for brands, I print with either Hatch Box (Amazon) or Prusa (Prusa) filaments. I've tried several others and don't like the inconsistencies in production, but I have not tried much else. There are great STL file for these things on Thingiverse. Just type "Freewing" for example in the search bar on thingiverse and you will begin see the what you can do.Don't know your background, but if designing parts is part of your bailiwick, check out Autodesk products for CAD. Many of those are 'free' to hobbyists. I use their TinkerCAD, Fusion 360 and older version called CAD123. TinkerCAD is simple and good place to begin if you have little or no CAD experience. I have used it for almost everything I have designed in the last 2 years. I am using CAD 123 now and Fusion somewhat which has many features for more complex designs. In any event, there are great people here and many are experienced with both CAD and 3DP. If I can be of any assistance to you, just ask via this forum or private message (PM). Best, LB

[Gary9648]

Well I guess an old dog at 72 can learn a new trick. I just purchased a Ender 5 pro 3D printer and am awaiting arrival. Looking forward to getting advice on where to download programs for parts and advice on setting my printer up. Anyone here have the 5 pro?