Paint to use on foam?

[thisguy65]

May pick up a use Cub for my Dad. If so I'm wanting ot paint mine. Curious of any paints easy to get (walmart, paint store, lowes, etc) that are good and foam safe?

[Alpha]

If you have an airbrush, I recommend Tamiya, Vallejo, and MiG by Ammo. All are water washup, and foam safe.

If you don't have an airbrush and plan on hand painting, many of us simply use water based acrylic paint from your local hardware store. Go to Home Depot and ask them to match a color, then buy a pint for a few dollars which is enough for most foam electric Cubs even if its a big one like the Carbon Z.

Some people also thin those hardware store paints with water and airbrush them. 'Just an option.

[thisguy65]

If you have an airbrush, I recommend Tamiya, Vallejo, and MiG by Ammo. All are water washup, and foam safe.

If you don't have an airbrush and plan on hand painting, many of us simply use water based acrylic paint from your local hardware store. Go to Home Depot and ask them to match a color, then buy a pint for a few dollars which is enough for most foam electric Cubs even if its a big one like the Carbon Z.

Some people also thin those hardware store paints with water and airbrush them. 'Just an option.

Anything in a spray can? Basically was thinking of painting mine OD green or FDE

[OsideRCflyer]

Spray cans: Krylon 2x. Works great on foam planes. Airbrush: Tamiya.

[curlyculp]

I'm getting ready to re-paint my E-flite Phantom. But I can't find anything that sticks to the foam. I'm experimenting on the drop tanks, which I'll never put on the model. Tried bullseye primer which is supposed to stick on "anything," and water based polyurethane. Neither stuck AT ALL. A little tape and they peeled off in sheets.

There's a hobby foam primer they sell at shops like Michael's.

Other suggestions?

[t33jetman]

I'm getting ready to re-paint my E-flite Phantom. But I can't find anything that sticks to the foam. I'm experimenting on the drop tanks, which I'll never put on the model. Tried bullseye primer which is supposed to stick on "anything," and water based polyurethane. Neither stuck AT ALL. A little tape and they peeled off in sheets.

There's a hobby foam primer they sell at shops like Michael's.

Other suggestions?

"Walmart" online order, sells a Primer for foam airplanes. I've used it. Give it a try to see if you like it.

[curlyculp]

"Walmart" online order, sells a Primer for foam airplanes. I've used it. Give it a try to see if you like it.

Krylon craft foam primer. I'm trying right now. Just sprayed a piece and will let it sit a few days while I'm out of town. (the can even has a foam airplane on the label)

[curlyculp]

So, I tried the Krylon styrofoam primer and it was a bust. Peeled off. I'm testing on a couple wing tanks from the Eflite phantom that I don't ever plan on putting on the airplane. They came unpainted. I cleaned them with acetone. But I guess there could be some mold release left. I tried a primer advertised to stick to anything- glass, metal, aluminum. Nope. Tried polycrylic. Nope.

So the latest test was to sand the surface lightly. 320 grit to give it something to stick to. And it worked! It definitely sticks better. But the surface "popcorned." (is that what they call it?)

See the pic. The tank on the left is unsanded with one light primer coat. And it doesn't stick. The one on the right was sanded and primed. It sticks.

A molded piece has a natural "skin" that's the part that prevents the paint from sticking. Take the skin off and you open the cells.

Guess I'll have to do several coats with sanding in between to fill it all.

[doctormike]

Varathane clear matt is a perfect foam primer. It sticks to foam after an alcohol wipe down. Spray paint, then, sticks to it and it is permanent! I've used this technique over and over without failure. This also works on stick built models with plastic covering. Doc

[curlyculp]

Varathane clear matt is a perfect foam primer. It sticks to foam after an alcohol wipe down. Spray paint, then, sticks to it and it is permanent! I've used this technique over and over without failure. This also works on stick built models with plastic covering. Doc

The water based? I tried polycrylic after an acetone wipe down and it came off in sheets.

[Elbee]

CC, I have used acetone to remove the OEM paint and IPA 70% or greater to wipe down before applying primer or paint. I agree with Doc, there should be a 'base coat' that attaches to the OEM paint or skin. Some guys use several coats of the Minwax water base polycrylic and I have done that with success. I then use a Krylon black or white primer depending on what color comes next but only after a coat or 2 of the polycrylic as the carrier solvents can attack some foams. We all have our own 'go to' methodology, and simplest I've read about is Model Master 'rattle can' straight on the OEM paint after a wipe down with a tac-rag. So there ya go, Sir. Best, LB

[Grossman56]

Yep, I've tried the Acetone wipe as well and wasn't thrilled. However, applying Minwax, allowing it to bead up then wiping it off gathers all the mold release residue as well as establishes a good working surface. As a rule, I do this multiple times until I don't see any beading. I agree that a final coat of clear Matte finish Minwax would give some grip to the color. After painting and applying decals, I've found that the gloss finish will adhere the decals better than the matte finish. If you want a matte finish as your final result, just spray it over the gloss. Rule of thumb: Brush for glossiest finish using gloss, spray for dullest using Matte.

Grossman56

[curlyculp]

Yep, I've tried the Acetone wipe as well and wasn't thrilled. However, applying Minwax, allowing it to bead up then wiping it off gathers all the mold release residue as well as establishes a good working surface. As a rule, I do this multiple times until I don't see any beading. I agree that a final coat of clear Matte finish Minwax would give some grip to the color. After painting and applying decals, I've found that the gloss finish will adhere the decals better than the matte finish. If you want a matte finish as your final result, just spray it over the gloss. Rule of thumb: Brush for glossiest finish using gloss, spray for dullest using Matte.

Grossman56

Applying minwax takes the mold release off??? Do you mean minwax polycrylic? Is this a spray, since you're talking about watching it bead up? I applied polycrylic with a brush and it didn't bead at all, and again pealed off in sheets.

[Grossman56]

I use Minwax Except I use the gloss version. Brush it on, then wipe it off while its still wet. Now, in your case, the Acetone has probably removed the mold release so that might explain no beading Some planes, like my Pandoras, had quite a bit of mold release because they were never painted at the factory. Any plane that was painted would have been precleaned. Wiping the Minwax off will still leave a certain amount on the plane, but if you're still having a problem getting paint to adhere, try the Krylon Foam Primer.
I used that on my Tigercat, right over the stock blue.

Then applied the base color which was a custom mix from Ace Hardware using a Kensington sample water base paint and mixing a silver grey color.

then coating it with a pearlesence clear from the crafting section of Wally World, using a spray gun. Six coats if I remember right, then applied the decals, then another six coats of Minwax gloss, this time brushed on as using a brush gives a shinier result.
Some people water down the Minwax, I see no reason to. The Pearl coat was mixed to the consistency of milk, I tried it with a brush at first but it was too streaky so reapplied with a brush.

Good luck, let me know how you made out!



Grossman56

[doctormike]

Varathane sticks to foam like glue. A perfect primer. Grossman's technique works really well. curlyculp definitely did something wrong. Pilot error? Minwax must have improved. It used to be crunchy garbage. If Grossman is happy with it...it's good. Doc

[curlyculp]

Varathane sticks to foam like glue. A perfect primer. Grossman's technique works really well. curlyculp definitely did something wrong. Pilot error? Minwax must have improved. It used to be crunchy garbage. If Grossman is happy with it...it's good. Doc

Well then I'll have to get a little can and try it. Brushing it on the wiping off is interesting. Like it's dissolving whatever is keeping it from sticking.

[DougCLind]

I'm getting ready to re-paint my E-flite Phantom. But I can't find anything that sticks to the foam. I'm experimenting on the drop tanks, which I'll never put on the model. Tried bullseye primer which is supposed to stick on "anything," and water based polyurethane. Neither stuck AT ALL. A little tape and they peeled off in sheets.

There's a hobby foam primer they sell at shops like Michael's.

Other suggestions?

Well this is a 3 year old post but some might find this useful. I used to coat my Stryker C bodies (not sure what type of foam that was) with a 3M spray adhesive as a primer. The adhesive sticks to anything and then you paint over it with whatever. Paint never flaked off.

[Grossman56]

Well this is a 3 year old post but some might find this useful. I used to coat my Stryker C bodies (not sure what type of foam that was) with a 3M spray adhesive as a primer. The adhesive sticks to anything and then you paint over it with whatever. Paint never flaked off.

Now that's one I haven't heard before, sounds like a great idea though.

Grossman56