Bird of Time

[Aros]

That's a good idea xviper I will give that a try, thank you! The firewall does already have the hole in it for the motor shaft. Just need to add/drill out the 4 holes to mount the motor. I say "just" like it's going to be some walk in the park or something, silly me.

[xviper]

Getting the holes in the right place can be a real hair puller. If the template provided isn't the solution for you, I suggest doing something like this and I'm sure you'll come up with something like it once you see one possibility.
Get your motor and put the mounting screws in all to the same depth. Get some rubber stamp ink or even a fresh Sharpie. "Ink" the heads of the screws and make an impression of screw heads onto a piece of paper. You'll need a hole in the middle of the paper for the motor shaft to go through. Does the firewall that came with the plane already have a hole in it for the motor shaft? If not, you'll have to drill one that's big enough so that you can move the motor around once you do a dry fit. Now you can see where the motor shaft stick through and how it looks relative to the hole. Now put the new template onto the outside of the firewall so that the motor shaft is close to where it would come through. Make some center punch indents where the center of each screw impression is. Take off the template and drill your holes. Do a dry fit and you may find you might have to ream out one or more of the holes to get the screws to line up with the holes in the motor.

[Aros]

Alright further progress. I received my rod connectors and kwik links so I was able to get the rudder installed. Both servos are installed with pushrods...Have the elevator servo connected to the bell crank. Next up is putting the elevator together and installing. Have a feeling like xviper suggested there may be some unsavory unmentionables flying out of my mouth at certain points throughout the elevator install, lol. If all else fails I have a buddy who is going to help me finish up the build, mainly the motor mounting and elevator if needed. I have the E-flite Power 32 brushless motor and it's a tight fit and I am not sure how to appropriately get the right measurements to drill the holes needed. More research is needed. I see it comes with a template but I am still unclear of the precise process. Definitely good learning for this PNP guy but with the precision and accuracy required the first time around, there's no second chances on the motor install.

[Aros]

Oh yes I see what you mean. I had just posed it as an "L" for the photo, lol. Thanks!

[xviper]

Your bellcrank is mounted perfectly. In the picture, it looks like an "L". When you connect everything to it, it should look like an "r". It'll all make sense when you get to it.

[Aros]

I will revisit your post when the time comes...I'm not entirely sure what you mean but I bet when I go to connect the rods it will make sense. Thanks xviper for all your advice and help!

[xviper]

Looking good. I've used the popsicle stick trick for servo mounting myself. Regarding your bellcrank, in your picture, when you are about to connect up the servo rod, then the rod to the elevator, rotate it 90 degrees clockwise so that the servo rod part of the bellcrank is at the bottom. It'll get a more direct shot without having to bend too much. They way you have it, the rod will have to bend in an upward arc to reach the holes.

[Aros]

Alright my servos and bellcrank arrived today so I started digging in. I should have my own YT show for the comedic factor alone. I am so far out of my element when a model isn't PNP it's embarrassing. After much finagling I managed to secure the servos to the tray. I had to add balsa pieces to one of the servo housing sections in order to fit. As is typical of me I overdid the epoxy and it basically looks like something a preschooler would do. Ah well, once the wing is on out of sight out of mind.

I found a piece of wood I used as the base for the bellcrank. That went easy enough. So the next step is to get some of those cylindrical rod holders, mount the elevator, motor and rudder. The motor mount is going to be the biggest task left I think as I am dry fitting it now and I just don't quite get how to do that successfully. I may have to reach out to a friend for that job. From there it's simply adding the rx, ESC and battery, program the radio and get her ready for her first thermal task!

[Aros]

I think de-skinning can be done fairly easily with a heat gun. Slice the skin open in an area between ribs, heat it up as you peel it away. It should come off in big sections.

I'll have to look into the process when it comes time. Maybe it's not as bad as I am envisioning. killickb where do you find RC Air mods? I tried finding a "Ben" from there who I hear has mods specific to the BoT.

[killickb]

Mine is still for sale -- not flown at all last year if I recall correctly. It is the GP version with all of the RC AIR mods installed. Was a great disappointment after the flight capabilities of my original scratch built version. That Dynaflite model looks great !

[xviper]

I think de-skinning can be done fairly easily with a heat gun. Slice the skin open in an area between ribs, heat it up as you peel it away. It should come off in big sections.

[Aros]

One thing I know I will eventually want to do is have the skin redone to showcase the ribbing structure. I think it's a great compliment to this classic airframe and wing. I have to wonder how much of a nightmare it would be to "de-skin" the current livery (wing and tail) and add new skin with orange translucent covering (similar to the photo below). Nothing I will want or need to do anytime soon but down the road I would love it. I may have to outsource that job, lol.

[Aros]

LOL that was my next question...I have no doubt I will be closing all the windows during this process.

[xviper]

Getting BOTH Z-bend ends into the bellcrank AND hooking up the pushrod to the elevator "cross rod" is real tricky. Having the nut of the bellcrank hold down is an advantage. After you mark the placement of the bellcrank and wooden backboard, glue the backboard in place. Do all the attaching of Z-bends and short pushrod while the bellcrank is loose and can be manipulated. Then it can be slipped over the bolt and secured with the nut with some FoamTac on the threads. This part will have you standing on your head, with your tongue out and significant body English applied.

[xviper]

I had left over rods from my first busted Radian XL.

[Aros]

True...I will need to cut the rod down somewhat anyways I would imagine...Actually I may have a spare one. I'll check.

[xviper]

Not sure you need it threaded. You can put a Z bend at one end and one of those little cylindrical rod holders at the servo end, like what you see in one of my pictures.

[Aros]

Roger that. I am not sure what size, so I am ordering both the Du-Bro 4-40 762mm / 30" Threaded Rod and Du-Bro 2-56 762mm / 30" Threaded Rod.

[xviper]

Hmmm ...................... If they only gave you one rod, then yes, you'll need another one for the elevator if you don't mount the servo in the tail.

[Aros]

I only recall seeing one long rod in the box which I assume is for the rudder...Do I need to purchase another for the bellcrank?