Official Freewing 64mm Lippisch P.15 Thread

[OldnBold]

I added 1 oz. of weight to the tail of the Diana. I run 1300 3S packs pushed back so that the strap just grabs the front of the battery. The elevons are up 2mm. On take-off, be sure not to pull up quickly as this will cause a tip stall. The little angry hornet is a good flyer. It helps the visibility to add some light color on the wingtips as you can see in my photo.

[harleymon]

Hi all - I have one of these - right now have esc set to factory defaults..

I attached pic of possible settings, which I found in an internet post (hats off to the guy who posted these !)

Wanted to see what settings you are using. Thanks !

[paulrkytek]

So I went out to maiden my new P.15 yesterday and after leaving my hand at full throttle, it flew right into the ground. I have a 3S 1500 battery, moved backward a bit so the CG is as shown on the plans. I also added 1.5mm of up elevator with full throttle (it's proportional with less than full) as suggested on the plans. I have not been able to get the hang of launching with my left hand so I can't get to the stick fast enough to compensate. The fan ended up impacting the body and tearing a hole through it, so I need to replace the fan... but MotionRC is sold out. So my questions are:

1. Any other place to get these fans?
2. 1.5mm frankly doesn't sound like a lot. Do I need to add more?
3. Another alternative that comes to mind is I have a momentary switch on the left side, so I could give it "more" up elevator to compensate for the fact that the plane is moving slowly.
4. Any other suggestions for making it not become a ground digger?

Regarding seeing the plane in the air, I agree it will probably be difficult. I mean, that's kinda the purpose of camouflage. :-) What I'm doing is using early WW2 style German yellow on the rudder, bottom of the wingtips, and under the nose. Given that the P.15 would have been developed late in the war, it probably wouldn't have used the yellow, but I'm more concerned about not losing the plane than I am about perfect historical accuracy...

I I had a P15 I would add a gyro with Auto level. When setting the gyro up chock up the nose then set the auto level. When you have finished setting the gyro ( and not until after then ) set up a 2 way switch to give you 2mm up elevator. When you first hand launch the plane in auto level mode on full power make sure you have the 2mm up elevator switch on . If you have this set up correctly you can hand launch with no fear as the model will sort itself out and should be climbing at a good take off angle. At a good height knock off the 2 way switch then knock off the auto level to the gyro off position then trim out the model as normal and you should be a happy bunny. I have this on my 64mm F9FPanther using Hobby Eagle A3v2 and it works fine. The P 15 should have plenty of room to install gyro if you create a ply platform n the fuselage below the canopy and cut out any foam if needed from the canopy itself. I do not have a P15 but if I bought one that is what I would do. I would also be adding a 64mm 4s 12 blade fan either FMS 11 blade or x-fly 4s fan or a Freewing 4s 12 blade. If Motion do not have any in stock look on Ali Express or Bangood or r.c. Castle. If you go x-fly or FMS you will have to carve out a touch of foam in the fan area as the fan casing diameter is slightly larger than the Freewing fan.

[FlyAllTheThings]

So I went out to maiden my new P.15 yesterday and after leaving my hand at full throttle, it flew right into the ground. I have a 3S 1500 battery, moved backward a bit so the CG is as shown on the plans. I also added 1.5mm of up elevator with full throttle (it's proportional with less than full) as suggested on the plans. I have not been able to get the hang of launching with my left hand so I can't get to the stick fast enough to compensate. The fan ended up impacting the body and tearing a hole through it, so I need to replace the fan... but MotionRC is sold out. So my questions are:

1. Any other place to get these fans?
2. 1.5mm frankly doesn't sound like a lot. Do I need to add more?
3. Another alternative that comes to mind is I have a momentary switch on the left side, so I could give it "more" up elevator to compensate for the fact that the plane is moving slowly.
4. Any other suggestions for making it not become a ground digger?

Regarding seeing the plane in the air, I agree it will probably be difficult. I mean, that's kinda the purpose of camouflage. :-) What I'm doing is using early WW2 style German yellow on the rudder, bottom of the wingtips, and under the nose. Given that the P.15 would have been developed late in the war, it probably wouldn't have used the yellow, but I'm more concerned about not losing the plane than I am about perfect historical accuracy...

[OldnBold]

Guys,
As everyone knows, the 15 is nose heavy when equipped with landing gear. Even with my 1300 3s batteries at the rear limit where the strap is at the front of the battery the CG is slightly ahead of the recommended position, which is probably already a bit too far forward. I'm going to add some weight to the tail but first would like to know if anyone has explored CG locations aft of the recommended spot. It would be interesting to know if someone has identified an "optimum" CG location.

Thanks,
Waid

[OldnBold]

Water based paint on foam, local diy store sometimes do small sample pots, apply with tiny roller or really soft brush.or spray. If you want to avoid sucking crap into cheaters on take off you could simply hand launch and power off land so the fan is not turning . In my F9F I also added Gyro with auto level for hand launch then switched it off once air born or switched it to normal/windy day mode if required. Otherwise put fly mesh on the inside surface of the fuselage where the cheater holes are . You can always cut a couple of small cheater holes in the top of the wings ( about 1/4 to 1/3 original cheater hole area at a guess ) to make up for the air loss from adding the mesh if really necessary, just avoid cutting the servo wires

Thanks for the advice, Paul.

I used Rustoleum spray enamel to paint bright colors on the wingtips and vertical tail. The paint doesn't seem to cause any problem when applied over the existing L.15 paint. Bare foam might be another story, though.

The trick of rubbing talcum powder into the areas where painters tape will be applied works like a champ. No paint came off with the masking tape.

I epoxied 1/32nd inch thick balsa covers to the inside of the cheater holes to cover them so that runway grit won't be sucked into the fan.

[paulrkytek]

Guys,
I flew my new L.15 for the first time, today. It's a blast! I had to put the landing gear on mine because my flying field here in southern Arizona is dirt and pebbles with an occasional rattler or roadrunner. I was pleasantly surprised at how well the tiny beast tracked on launch and landing. It's much easier to fly than I expected. Even with the drag of the gear she's plenty fast. What a bargain!

This little beauty is so much fun that I've ordered its sister ship, the F9F Panther V2 4s, which appears to be even more of a bargain.

I have a couple of questions for the L.15 veterans:

1) I'm worried that the fan is sucking in dirt through the cheater holes, which will damage the blades. Are these holes actually necessary?

2) The standard color scheme of the L.15 is realistic but almost stealthy in certain lighting conditions. I need to brighten it up so that my old eyes can keep track of the speedy little hot rod. What kind of paints are you using that are compatible with the foam?

Thanks,
Waid
Green Valley AZ

Water based paint on foam, local diy store sometimes do small sample pots, apply with tiny roller or really soft brush.or spray. If you want to avoid sucking crap into cheaters on take off you could simply hand launch and power off land so the fan is not turning . In my F9F I also added Gyro with auto level for hand launch then switched it off once air born or switched it to normal/windy day mode if required. Otherwise put fly mesh on the inside surface of the fuselage where the cheater holes are . You can always cut a couple of small cheater holes in the top of the wings ( about 1/4 to 1/3 original cheater hole area at a guess ) to make up for the air loss from adding the mesh if really necessary, just avoid cutting the servo wires

[OldnBold]

Guys,
I flew my new L.15 for the first time, today. It's a blast! I had to put the landing gear on mine because my flying field here in southern Arizona is dirt and pebbles with an occasional rattler or roadrunner. I was pleasantly surprised at how well the tiny beast tracked on launch and landing. It's much easier to fly than I expected. Even with the drag of the gear she's plenty fast. What a bargain!

This little beauty is so much fun that I've ordered its sister ship, the F9F Panther V2 4s, which appears to be even more of a bargain.

I have a couple of questions for the L.15 veterans:

1) I'm worried that the fan is sucking in dirt through the cheater holes, which will damage the blades. Are these holes actually necessary?

2) The standard color scheme of the L.15 is realistic but almost stealthy in certain lighting conditions. I need to brighten it up so that my old eyes can keep track of the speedy little hot rod. What kind of paints are you using that are compatible with the foam?

Thanks,
Waid
Green Valley AZ

[cryoflyer]

NIB SOLD!

[Coconut]

4 crisp, ironed-flat $5 bills?

[cryoflyer]

Any interest in buying my Lippisch P15 ? Purchased from MRC in March, 2018. Still NIB. Make an offer - you pay shipping from NM within US. text to (505) 670-2739

[cryoflyer]

Any interest in buying my Lippisch P15 ? Purchased from MRC in March, 2018. Still NIB. Make an offer - you pay shipping from NM within US. text to (505) 670-2739

[Jake Bullit]

Perfect blue skies and zero wind made for a good days flying in the UK .

The P15 pusher flies great,and carries the DJI easily.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KOC4-zqTE8U&lc=UgzDqxv-wb5D270NpAN4AaABAg

[averymiller514]

Looks to me like they currently have one in stock at MRC:

Freewing 64mm EDF Lippisch P.15 Main Wing Set - $30

The whole plane is also in stock.

I am aware of that, I bought a set, but I'm worried they soon will go back out and I'll need another set and I want a way to source them myself.

[ridgerunner]

Hey, as some of you may know the wings for this plane are sadly hard to come by, ...

Looks to me like they currently have one in stock at MRC:

Freewing 64mm EDF Lippisch P.15 Main Wing Set - $30

The whole plane is also in stock.

[averymiller514]

Hey, as some of you may know the wings for this plane are sadly hard to come by, and I broke one a couple months ago, so I've come to the conclusion that i need to find a way to 3dprint them, if any one has done this knows how, or knows somebody's that's done this let me know, I have a printer on hand with the ability to do so. thanks.

[SanExup]

That would be a very cool modification!

[averymiller514]

averymiller514 No but speed brakes sound cool for the p.15! Are you going to be using a servo or servos?

likely two micro servo. but the idea of splittle the trailing edge of the wing has come to my mind to.

[averymiller514]

Thanks man.... there are a few things that I realize that I need to tune up....such as CG, adjusting the gain on my gyro....and how to program mixes ..I was reading that full throttle can affect nose dips as well.... which is what I was applying as well as full elevator....so I will try a little less elevator.... thanks for your reply

it took me a while to get it right, but the cg needs to be pushed bask as far as you and even then it'll nose down a little but thate can be trimed out.

[Jungol]

Thanks man.... there are a few things that I realize that I need to tune up....such as CG, adjusting the gain on my gyro....and how to program mixes ..I was reading that full throttle can affect nose dips as well.... which is what I was applying as well as full elevator....so I will try a little less elevator.... thanks for your reply