Official Freewing 64mm Lippisch P.15 Thread

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  • FlyGonz
    replied
    Twin lips work great. I probably should of just done that lol. But in the end it would just roll to the right. I checked CG and weight was even. Controls and trim were fine. But alas... The experiment failed. Time for a new plane lol. The airframe took too much damage to bither repairing.

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  • xviper
    replied
    Originally posted by FlyGonz
    Well it wouldn't fly. Maybe the wings were too heavy or just aerodynamics were off. Oh well, worth the try.
    I think it became way too big of wingspan for it's length. Did it waddle like a duck on the ground? Swayed left/right into the dirt? It probably needed a very tall, long rudder to stop the waddle. I remember someone (Tired Iron?) made a twin Lippy and flew fairly well.

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  • FlyGonz
    replied
    Well it wouldn't fly. Maybe the wings were too heavy or just aerodynamics were off. Oh well, worth the try.

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  • Hardway
    replied
    Fly, that is just too cool. Welcome!!! Jerry

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  • FlyGonz
    replied
    Here it is boys! Light as a feather and ready for a test flight. I will let you guys know how she flies and maybe even post a viedo.
    Attached Files

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  • James
    replied
    Originally posted by FlyGonz
    Hey gents! I have a pretty interesting idea for my Lip. I love the plane but wish it was bigger. So I decided to buy the wings of the FlightLine Focke Wulf and try to attach them. It would make it more of an "acrobatic glider" with about a 55" wingspan. I should be attempting this during the weekend. I will post pics if all goes well. I also had a question about cameras and CG. I want to put a RunCam 2 in the cockpit but it seems to be a bit heavy. Has anyone put cameras (that arent FPV) on the Lip? If so, where is the "safest" spot to avoid CG issues?
    Hey FlyGonz welcome to hobbysquawk! I absolutely love my Lippisch but I also have a flightline FW-190 1200 and the 850 Dora (are we talking about the dora?) A. I am not sure how you would begin to attach those to a Lippisch body without butchering the one-piece wing. B. I doubt the 3s 64mm Lippisch power system can carry all that extra weight. I wouldn't bother trying to attach a runcam until your proof of concept works and she flies without it.

    Either way, I wish you all the best and would of course absolutely love to see pics and video of it!

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  • FlyGonz
    replied
    Hey gents! I have a pretty interesting idea for my Lip. I love the plane but wish it was bigger. So I decided to buy the wings of the FlightLine Focke Wulf and try to attach them. It would make it more of an "acrobatic glider" with about a 55" wingspan. I should be attempting this during the weekend. I will post pics if all goes well. I also had a question about cameras and CG. I want to put a RunCam 2 in the cockpit but it seems to be a bit heavy. Has anyone put cameras (that arent FPV) on the Lip? If so, where is the "safest" spot to avoid CG issues?

    Leave a comment:


  • GordonC
    replied
    Just setting up a PNP p.15 bought early December. I was afraid I programmed the Esc accidentally while getting the throttle ranges set. I tried to use the reference to the Freewing ESC instructions listed on the web-site and discovered discovered it didn’t not correspond to the Esc that came with the plane. Motion RC customer help QUICKLY pointed me to the FlightLine 30 amp ESC and a really helpful video found on the 850mm P-51D product description. I was then easily able to set the ESC to the factory defaults. yea ! https://www.motionrc.com/products/fl...ctor#video-tab

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  • xviper
    replied
    Originally posted by hansemann
    Hi,

    does anyone can give me the amount of profile reflex build in the kit. Flaps should be straight for this.
    Should anyone have photo made from the rear so I can see when the reflex starts, that would be even better.

    That would help me a lot for my project.

    Thank you in advance

    Hanse
    Are you talking about the small amount of "UP" elevator that you can dial in for a smoother hand launch? The elevons are set up even (or level with the wing root) for normal flight. The "reflex" is programmed to be activated and deactivated by a switch. In my case, I use the gear switch. You do NOT want to "build" in reflex as a permanent feature. It is only for the launch and after the plane begins to fly and climb, you switch it off, then trim the plane. How much reflex you program in depends on your throwing style and can be adjusted after you try it once or twice. Building in permanent reflex on this plane will make it climb aggressively during normal flight. In the following video, near the beginning at 0.04, you see me throw the switch to give some reflex in preparation for launch. Before this, you see what it looks like normally.

    PS, there are no "flaps" on this plane.

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  • hansemann
    replied
    Hi,

    does anyone can give me the amount of profile reflex build in the kit. Flaps should be straight for this.
    Should anyone have photo made from the rear so I can see when the reflex starts, that would be even better.

    That would help me a lot for my project.

    Thank you in advance

    Hanse

    Leave a comment:


  • roys001
    replied
    The P.15 is my goto plane. What ever else I bring to the field I always bring it. I have put "hockey florescent orange stick tape" on the bottom, the wing leading edges, and the ruder leading edge. I run the admiral 3s 2200 in it. I compress the foam a bit on the sides to get cg. I'm getting about 5 minute flight times with mixed throttle. It is such a performer. I fly at Apollo field. There are about 10 of them at the field total. I'm hoping that we can get them all together for a photo op and a video some time.
    I've been practicing inverted and it is very stable. I also found that it does a great outside loop. I just can't say enough about this plane.

    Leave a comment:


  • GBLynden
    replied
    Originally posted by worldflyer
    Have a question I got the LIP15 as well and try to get the CG using a 1800 and a 1500 Lipo. When I put it on my CG test stand its very sensitive I tried right site up and upside down any Ideas or just go for nose heavy??
    I just use my fingertips to get it to balance like always with my 1800. I can't remember the exact placement due to using a wide variety of packs in mine, but it is always easy to achieve a nice neutral CG using the panel line as reference.

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  • SoLongSidekick
    replied
    Thought you guys might like this, the only period color photo I've ever seen of the Komet.

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  • worldflyer
    replied
    Originally posted by dkalwishky
    I flew mine with an 1800 as far back as I could get it and it flew fine.
    ok thanks will try that

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  • dkalwishky
    replied
    I flew mine with an 1800 as far back as I could get it and it flew fine.

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  • worldflyer
    replied
    Have a question I got the LIP15 as well and try to get the CG using a 1800 and a 1500 Lipo. When I put it on my CG test stand its very sensitive I tried right site up and upside down any Ideas or just go for nose heavy??

    Leave a comment:


  • Dmonhellcat
    replied
    Originally posted by xviper
    Battery alarms are useless on high draw power systems like EDFs. As soon as you go high throttle the voltage plummets to below what an alarm considers "safe". It doesn't mean anything. If you have real time telemetry on the battery voltage, you'd see this. Once you back off the throttle and cruise, the voltage comes back up. You can even run it full throttle for 2 to 3 minutes, land and take a reading. By that time, the voltage will have come back up to normal end of flight levels. It's NOT a problem.
    I know the EDF’s are higher draw but the battery voltage drops down to 3.2 V per cell almost immediately and doesn’t go back up on any 3S that I have tried, the 2200’s seem to drain the fastest I am Going to switch out the esc and see if that makes a difference.

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  • McLogo
    replied
    Just out of curiosity I did try to wring it out today in 5mins with many Wot climbs, loops and flybies... and I managed to get the 1800s pack down to 3.5 per cell. I never fly my batteries that low normally but it was worth it seeing how low I could go.

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  • McLogo
    replied
    I really like to give it WOT often with my 3s 1800s as it just super fun and no matter what after 5mins I get about 3.78v per cell ;)
    The 5min timer (or higher if you like to fly it slower) does really work perfect for me on the Lippisch.

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  • xviper
    replied
    Originally posted by Dmonhellcat
    Anybody have problems with batteries draining almost immediately with this jet? My battery alarm starts beeping almost as soon as let go at the launch! I tried all my 3S batteries with the same result. I ran a 1000 4s through it and got around 3 minutes of flight while not going above 1/2 throttle.
    Battery alarms are useless on high draw power systems like EDFs. As soon as you go high throttle the voltage plummets to below what an alarm considers "safe". It doesn't mean anything. If you have real time telemetry on the battery voltage, you'd see this. Once you back off the throttle and cruise, the voltage comes back up. You can even run it full throttle for 2 to 3 minutes, land and take a reading. By that time, the voltage will have come back up to normal end of flight levels. It's NOT a problem.

    Leave a comment:

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