Originally posted by fredmdbud
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Official Freewing 70mm F-35 V3 (2019 Version) Thread
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The fan came off from the housing, along with the spinner. I suspect the retaining screw and washer loosened, causing the spinner to separate which lead to the fan coming off and disintegrating. It damaged the foam in the process of course.
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Was it just the fan, or the fan assembly (fan, spindle, retaining nut and washer, spinner, etc)?
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On mine, after about 45 minutes of airtime, the fan decided to remove itself from the motor shaft. Fortunately it did so on Power up while on the taxi way.Originally posted by GarudaAlphaOne View PostI just wanted to post something that happened recently to my airplane that could be a reminder. When I was flying the model the fan failed in flight, causing a loss of power leading to a belly landing. When you assemble the airplane and before you fly, make sure you check the fittings holding the fan on to limit the chance of failure. I hope this helps others from experiencing this same situation. Thanks.
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GAO, thank you and welcome to Hobby Squawk! Glad you are here
Jerry
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I just wanted to post something that happened recently to my airplane that could be a reminder. When I was flying the model the fan failed in flight, causing a loss of power leading to a belly landing. When you assemble the airplane and before you fly, make sure you check the fittings holding the fan on to limit the chance of failure. I hope this helps others from experiencing this same situation. Thanks.
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Great idea... I used FoamTac on my screws which is a similar thought. Also, you need to check the plywood mounts are thoroughly glued into the foam. I found on side barely glued into place on my T45 jet.Originally posted by fredmdbud View Post
Here's a trick I learned from my electronics test fixturing days - apply a dab of enamel paint (or even nail polish) at the screw/flange joint to make it resistant to working itself loose.
Rich
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That's a great idea. I put some FoamTac on the screws on my fan unit. I guess as long as your fan is balanced and you don't pick up debris into the fan blades... all is wellOriginally posted by gooniac33 View PostI always take out the screws that come with the kit and use a much courser drywall type screw. they hold better and don't loosen over time.
Rich
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I always take out the screws that come with the kit and use a much courser drywall type screw. they hold better and don't loosen over time.
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OK as I takeoff from grass and have seen the few issues with extending the nose leg I decided to try putting some 10mm(3/8") packing under the retract when retracted the nose wheel protrude below the wheel cover but if it works I can live with that
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Im thinking im gonna grab me one of these in November.
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Here's a trick I learned from my electronics test fixturing days - apply a dab of enamel paint (or even nail polish) at the screw/flange joint to make it resistant to working itself loose.Originally posted by RichJ53 View PostI pulled the access cover off of my F-35 and discovered the fan screws were loose and the ESC was loose and moving back and forth. Wow, I tightened everything up and all is well. I am adding this to my check list after 20 flights.
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Hi guys,
I wanted to pass this along regarding my jet fan unit on the F-35. I have 48 flights on my F-35 now and it has been lots of fun to fly. As most of us know, the ducted fan is out of site and we do not think about checking it for maintenance. I check all the servos and linkages every flight, but never really thought about the ESC or Fan unit.
I pulled the access cover off of my F-35 and discovered the fan screws were loose and the ESC was loose and moving back and forth. Wow, I tightened everything up and all is well. I am adding this to my check list after 20 flights.
Hope this helps others too.
Rich
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I use my fingers on the spot on each wing to hold it up. I did buy a balance machine a while back. Used it a couple of times. Haven't used it in years. CG placement on most foamies (and even non-foamies) is somewhat flexible. People used to say that CG MUST be to the mm. I think that's gone by the wayside now. There are still a few anal retentive people out there who say that "moving the CG 1mm forward made all the difference in the world". I call a BIG BS on that. You can't even discern the line of demarcation on a battery down to 1mm. Such people shouldn't be drinking and flying at the same time.Originally posted by hkduder View Post
Noted on the full stabilizer. I've read through this entire this thread believe it or not. So the one thing I did see was the addendum and correction to the CG. Do you just use your fingers for CG or is it worth it to invest in a CG machine?
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I want to “second” the advice about CG placement!!!
Also, the other two things that surprised me about my maidening of this plane were: (1) roll rates even with low travels were very quick. It’s due to the *huge* ailerons. I think I have my low rate aileron travels (for takeoff) set at 40% (Travel! Not expo!) (2) once in the air, it’s fast. On grass the takeoff roll is long, leading you to think the plane is marginally powered. But, after liftoff, it accelerates and top speed is probably 100-120 mph. I also kept the throttle up after takeoff thinking I needed it. Actually, after in level flight, 60% throttle is fine for the pattern and learning the plane’s responses. Full throttle turns into speed quickly, which amplifies the roll responses.
Finally, I’ll add that you must land this plane nose-high. It’s the only way it slows down. I actually start getting the nose up when I’m on base, and final needs to be nose up, with descent rates controlled by throttle.
If you lift the nose up, and the plane “goes up”, you have too much airspeed and you need to make another pass.
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Noted on the full stabilizer. I've read through this entire this thread believe it or not. So the one thing I did see was the addendum and correction to the CG. Do you just use your fingers for CG or is it worth it to invest in a CG machine?Originally posted by xviper View PostI've been doing this for nearly 10 years and still stuff to learn.
You are more likely to crash this plane due to not balancing it properly. Take note that the CG page of your manual may not be correct. Mine came with a "stick on" correction that gave the "correct" CG. If your manual does NOT have the "stick on", you likely do not have the correct CG. Do your homework and make sure you know what the correct recommended CG is. The other reason for a crash is due to this plane having full flying stabilizers and these can tend to be quite "twitchy". In this case, use of some (or a lot of expo) will help dampen this effect until you figure out what throws work best for you. Compound this with the fact that this plane is fairly fast, the twitchiness could be quite alarming. Of course, let's not forget about "dumb thumbs".
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I've been doing this for nearly 10 years and still stuff to learn.Originally posted by hkduder View Post
Thats reassuring to know they are reference points and wont just crash if not set exact. Lots to learn.
You are more likely to crash this plane due to not balancing it properly. Take note that the CG page of your manual may not be correct. Mine came with a "stick on" correction that gave the "correct" CG. If your manual does NOT have the "stick on", you likely do not have the correct CG. Do your homework and make sure you know what the correct recommended CG is. The other reason for a crash is due to this plane having full flying stabilizers and these can tend to be quite "twitchy". In this case, use of some (or a lot of expo) will help dampen this effect until you figure out what throws work best for you. Compound this with the fact that this plane is fairly fast, the twitchiness could be quite alarming. Of course, let's not forget about "dumb thumbs".
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Thats reassuring to know they are reference points and wont just crash if not set exact. Lots to learn.Originally posted by xviper View PostThose are purely for reference points anyway. Different flyers like different throws. If your TX has 3-position switches for the control surface rates/expo, then just make one that is a little more on one surface and one that is a little less for the other and fly it in the middle to start and flip to a more workable rate that suits you. I generally like a lot of rudder for ground steering and not so much for elevator. Others may not. Find a more suitable throw for you on the 3rd rate.
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