Official Freewing 70mm F-22 Raptor EDF Jet Thread
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I own 3 of the 70 Raptors one still new in the box broke a hinge on mine also have done a temp repair works so far. Love to see parts arrive I also order some extras nose cone small stuff that usually happens. Spent more time on the Raptor last night need to finish the nose cone today and add some small touches ( stickers ) -
Here ya go this is a direct fit wheel and everyone at my club that I turned on to this is amazed how much easier she rotates after just doing this upgrade also looks good in my humble opinionLeave a comment:
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Motion said that the container with the PNP got to them in record time. Seems the container with the spares and kit plus got the slower boat.
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I see that just about every spare part that's specific to the F-22 is still out of stock at Motion.
Annoying, since I broke a gear door hinge and need a new gear door.Leave a comment:
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The manual only tells you a length of the rod itself not the assembled length. Just adjust them. And I suggest moving the flap rods in a couple holes on the servo arms so you don’t have to cut travel so much to get the book travel throws.Leave a comment:
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Hi everyone. I have mine mostly set up and I've bypassing the black box and am going straight to a AR8360t and using tailerons. Control surfaces work as intended but my only question is did anyone else have their flap and elevator alignment way off from the factory? Flaps are almost at half flap position and elevators are at about half up elevator. Servo horns seem to be centered on the servos. I'm not sure these pushrods will allow the level of adjustment needed to center them. It's almost like the pushrods are flipped between elevator and flaps. Maybe this is because my travel is set to 100 rather than 125 or 150 and the zero point is off for flaps at least? The lengths are correct according to the manual. Linkages shows at factory length in the photo.1 PhotoLeave a comment:
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I have mine mostly setup and tested and am bypassing the black box. I think I might tie the light to the landing gear switch but I'm not sure the light I bought will fit in the retract bay.
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There are electronic switches available that you can "Y" to your gear channel to turn a landing light on/off. Easier and more reliable than a micro switch. Or you can do what I did and make one using an Arduino or ATtiny85. (ATtiny85 are absurdly cheap). I actually include a landing light switch in my afterburner controller.I CG a finger behind the factory marks, flew lots yesterday only on the 70 my 90 had the main gear strut screw come out again ( pic included ). I did see the ports don’t support a landing light so it’s either strobe or steady on. This is mainly for dusk low light flying planning on having it easily connectable or on a micro switch don’t think 5 min would hurt or cause any issues
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I CG a finger behind the factory marks, flew lots yesterday only on the 70 my 90 had the main gear strut screw come out again ( pic included ). I did see the ports don’t support a landing light so it’s either strobe or steady on. This is mainly for dusk low light flying planning on having it easily connectable or on a micro switch don’t think 5 min would hurt or cause any issuesLeave a comment:
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200g heavier than what I use and you have it further forward. Where are you balancing the plane?
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200g heavier than what I use and you have it further forward. Where are you balancing the plane?
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1- no
4- power hobby 5000mah 100c, only 545g. Great but expensive.
5- yesLeave a comment:
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Good to know, thanks but I have a few more comments/questions:
1) For the nose gear door board Do you just plug the nose gear retract servo and door servos into it and it acts as a sequencer? Isn't it this one? https://www.motionrc.com/products/fr...ard-107d007001
I'm essentially wondering if i can use it without the "black box" and it sounds like I should be able to from what you're saying
2) I'm glad it has light outputs, I plan to use lights eventually
3) I will be using the open channel for nose wheel stabilization or thrust reverse depending on what is needed more
4) What batteries have you used and what are your thoughts on the best size of you have flown it?
5) No soervo reversers needed for this, just wye's, correct?
This doesn't have the usual "blue box". The black box is nothing more than Y's for the elevators, flaps, rudder to nose steering and retracts. There is no retract door sequencer in it, it's a separate little board, and it does have light outputs that aren't used. The two rudders come already Y'd together too.
Definitely bypass for tailerons. I also suggest bypassing for rudder and steering and putting steering on it's own channel.
Bypassing the rest is up to you. You'll just need a couple Y's and a triple for the retracts.
I bypassed it all and put the receiver, satellite and sequencer under the floor, it came out very neat. Also reroute the servo wire how they come out of the wing and under the battery floor so you can move your battery back.
I don't use gyros so I'm no help there.
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