F4 Phantom Makeover

[jetfool]

Going to modify and repaint my new 6s F4 Phantom into the Sundowners scheme. I have several 3d parts to add for more scale version. First thing I plan to do is strengthen the elevator pushrod with 4-40 rod. Hopefully you will follow along and give me your pros and cons on this re-do. Plane was assembled and checked to make sure everything worked the first few days after delivery from Motion R/C. Now I'll disassemble it and start the process. Plane weighed 5.7 lbs. without battery (stock configuration). Here's a few photo's of parts to be added.





Best Regards, Rex

[GliderGuy]

I don’t see a set of RF chokes to be added!!!

I lost an F-4 before I began installing them. My current F-4 has lasted over a thousand flights without issue now that RF chokes are installed on the wiring.

All my high-current EDF birds have them installed.
Search RF chokes or ferrite chokes on Amazon and buy a variety pack. The most critical place is install them as close to the ESC as you can and on the wires going forward toward the RX from the ESC

-GG

[GliderGuy]

This location….
clip an RF choke on all these wires. Use several chokes and several wires can be inside one choke. Use as large a size as will fit.

Sample Amazon link below…lots of variety packs are available.

Pls post progress phots.

Beef up the elevator’s ball link and servo clevis link - heavy duty!!! And consider installing a higher quality elevator servo. I had a stock servo fail with bad results.

https://a.co/d/2hTDlxV

-GG

[jetfool]

Thanks Glider Guy. I will check out the chokes and I am adding 4-40 wire elevator upgrade. Will add Hitec servo. Better safe than sorry.
Best Regards, Rex

[Elbee]

jetfool,

Looks like a great deal of fun is about to happen.

I don't see the two 3DP Variable Intake Ramps; decided not to go that route?.

Post progress, Rex, love those Phantoms.

What a great model.

Best, LB

[jetfool]

Elbee,
Yes, I have those just forgot to lay them out. I plan on using everything my friend printed for me. Would like to find the ladders (not on Motions website) and a center drop tank. Going to check out Thingaverse.
Did you use the FS # for your grey and white paint? I have M&M color charts and will have HD match the paint, Latex. Was the Sundowners paint glossy or Matte/Flat?
Looking forward to this and I know I will have many questions for everyone.
Best Regards, Rex

[Elbee]

Elbee,
Yes, I have those just forgot to lay them out. I plan on using everything my friend printed for me. Would like to find the ladders (not on Motions website) and a center drop tank. Going to check out Thingaverse.
Did you use the FS # for your grey and white paint? I have M&M color charts and will have HD match the paint, Latex. Was the Sundowners paint glossy or Matte/Flat?
Looking forward to this and I know I will have many questions for everyone.
Best Regards, Rex

Rex,

I have the OEM ladder STLs, just not a great way to print those.

Originally, the ladders were an Option Part from MRC and printed in resin.

The STLs were on the MRC website and then at some point removed.

The parts are fairly large in overall shape, but don't use much material.

A good project for my future and I sent you the STLs via email.

Best, LB

[Elbee]

jetfool

This is the 600 gal Centerline tank I printed for my Phantom..

It was designed by apmech1 .

It is perfect BYW for your Freewing Phantom.

The file is too big to send through HS, I will email it to you, as well.

Best, LB

[jetfool]

Elbee,
There is a reason I call you the Kansas R/C Wizard! Thank you so much for the STLs.
If I use a 4-40 ball clevis on the elevator I would need to drill for a 4-40 bolt, a regular 4-40 clevis has play because the original hole is larger. A new hole wouldn't leave much metal around the hole. If I use a 2-56 ball head clevis and a carbon fiber rod over the linkage it all fits the original holes after tapping for 2-56 thread. I think the 2-56 set-up would be ok. Everyone's thoughts please.
Filling all the non-scale holes, manufacturing processes just because they drive me crazy and looks better after painting.





The first picture was Runner- up on my paint choices.

[Elbee]

jetfool,

I went the 2-56 All thread/Ball-link/Clevis and carbon fiber tube route.

Works great with end point adjust,

Best, LB

[jetfool]

Using 2-56 ball links and an alum. tube over the linkage (my carbon rods were too big). This is a lot stiffer than the original. Factory linkage is ,059" versus 2-56 at .074" plus the alum. tube. Need to order the Hi-tec servo.
Best Regards, Rex

[Elbee]

I believe that will do nicely and an upgrade from OEM for certain.

[jetfool]

Today with snow falling and no need to go anywhere I spent the time spackling the non-scale holes, removing OEM turkey feathers and pre fitting the 3d exhausts. Want to install the retracting Tail Hook while I'm at this end. Good thing I disasembled the plane because I found the black wire had pulled from its wing connector socket. Might have been a bad day if I had flown it.
Best Regards, Rex

[jetfool]

Used cotten to push in servo wire hole before putting spackling over. if need to remove servo I just take out the upper layer and wire comes out.

[f4u ausie]

Slow to the party . This one's going to be fun. Will b interested in the weight increase

[Elbee]

jetfool

Nice catch on that black wire. you avoided some type of issue there.

Spackle Party

And so it begins....

Best, LB

[jetfool]

Guys,
I have the M&M COLOR CHIPS and I'm looking for the correct Vietnam era sundowners F-4 FS numbers, grey /white/red. Was the paint Glossy, matte or flat on the originals.
Thanks, Rex


p.s.- Guys I found the numbers. Grey- FS#36440 for Matte and FS#16440 for Glossy

Light grey- FS#36622 and Insignia White

[Elbee]

Rex,

My Federal Standard 595a references for F-4B VF-111 show:

FS-17875-Insignia White
FS-16440-Light Gull Gray
FS-11136-Insignia Red

The designation at the beginning of the FS number represents the finish, i.e., 1-gloss, 2-semi, 3-flat.

So there you have it.

I used an FS color match for Behr Premium Exterior Latex for my Phantom, though there are easier paints to use.

Hope this helps.

Best, LB

[Elbee]

Rex, Moved your Pictures and Post. Best, LB
F-4 Phantom Makeover

Today, 11:56 AM
From James past assemblies I glued the tail to the fuselage. Poked holes into mating surfaces with an Awe before gluing. More spackling and I installed some styrene strips around the hatch latch to bring it level with the fus. I have applied 3 coats of poly-acrylic to the stab. sanding between coats w/320 paper lightly. It is starting to get smooth and level for the primer.
Best Regards, Rex

[jetfool]

Elbee,
You truly are the Kansas Wizard. Thank You, Thank You for moving the post.

Just placing some 3d parts where I think they go. Looks like some cutting and fitting required to get them flush. Wondering if I should install now or after the poly-acrylic coats. Decisions!
Going to take a coffee break and look back thru the original posts for Elbee's tail hook installation.
If this is all boring to everybody please advise.

[Elbee]

jetfool

I would use The RC Geek method of installing a functional tailhook.

Check out his ewe-toob: Go To the 5 minute mark for the tail hook mod.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQX9aXoNeVI

Best, LB