Official Freewing Twin 80mm/90mm A-10 Thunderbolt II Thread

[xviper]

There are 169 pages of photos in this thread. In fact, page 149 of those photos shows some pictures of the nose gear that I'm sure will depict what will help you in your resolution of the problem. It's somewhat tedious to go through all the photos but I'll bet there are other photos that show the same thing from different angles.

[jetpltrich]

Does anyone have a picture of the nose gear installation in a V1? I'm not sure what happened but the spring that holds the gear door turns the nose gear left such that is doesn't retract properly.

I have the V1 and can take some pictures for you. Before I do, I'm not so sure the gear door spring is turning the nose gear such that it won't retract properly. Take a close look at the nose gear turning servo and its linkage assembly and see if that's the problem. I have experienced this on numerous occasions on other aircraft, and a little 3n1 oil seems to clear the issue up, although temporally, oil dissipates and the issues returns.

Rich

[Robbie9859901]

Does anyone have a picture of the nose gear installation in a V1? I'm not sure what happened but the spring that holds the gear door turns the nose gear left such that is doesn't retract properly.

[Ah's Availble]

Did you ever do a throttle calibration?

Yes, each time I made a change to the setup. Especially mindful of this on twins to avoid asymmetric thrust.

[xviper]

Took a while, but replaced UBEC with larger capacity one. Same result, 20%-30% difference between batteries. Flying buddy thought that perhaps one of the EDFs may have had a rub or other issue that caused more power draw. Inspected EDFs and did notice some wear on the case of one the fans. Did not find slop or any issue that may cause rubbing. Swapped EDFs and issue went away. Any thoughts on what may have happenned?

Did you ever do a throttle calibration?

[Ah's Availble]

Flew it again today with batteries swapped. Same result 45% left on UBEC battery and 65% on other battery. I checked all or the servos and made sure none were stalling or growling. Open to any thoughts.

Took a while, but replaced UBEC with larger capacity one. Same result, 20%-30% difference between batteries. Flying buddy thought that perhaps one of the EDFs may have had a rub or other issue that caused more power draw. Inspected EDFs and did notice some wear on the case of one the fans. Did not find slop or any issue that may cause rubbing. Swapped EDFs and issue went away. Any thoughts on what may have happenned?

[Ah's Availble]

Flew it again today with batteries swapped. Same result 45% left on UBEC battery and 65% on other battery. I checked all or the servos and made sure none were stalling or growling. Open to any thoughts.

Took a while, but replaced UBEC with larger capacity one. Same result, 20%-30% difference between batteries. Flying buddy thought that perhaps one of the EDFs may have had a rub or other issue that caused more power draw. Inspected EDFs and did notice some wear on the case of one the fans. Did not find slop or any issue that may cause rubbing. Swapped EDFs and issue went away. Any thoughts on what may have happenned?

[tab28682]

One nice effect of the V2 release last year was that I was able to get a super deal on a nicely upgraded and modified V1….:)

[xviper]

Thanks for the help and the link. I agree that I was sent the ESC from a different model. I got these from another vender since motion at the time was out. I could not help but notice that the ones from motion do have extra caps so I went ahead and ordered theirs since they look like they should be a simple instillation and I'm sure in time I'll find a use for the others.

Well, at least we know now what happened. I upgraded my old V1 to the newer V2 reversing ESCs before selling it and I don't recall any issues with wiring length.

[motorc]

Thanks for the help and the link. I agree that I was sent the ESC from a different model. I got these from another vender since motion at the time was out. I could not help but notice that the ones from motion do have extra caps so I went ahead and ordered theirs since they look like they should be a simple instillation and I'm sure in time I'll find a use for the others.

[xviper]

I have an older A-10 V1 80mm that I am planning to install a reversing ESC. I ordered a freewing 100A V2 reversing ESC and unfortunately the battery cables are only about a foot long and to get to the battery bay I'll need another 2 feet or so. Will more capacitors need to be installed on the ESC end to prevent damage to the ESC?

I would say "no" (re: more caps). Did you order the ones from "spare parts" for the A-10 80mm V2? Those should have had wiring of the proper length. If not, then I would suggest they sent ones from a different model.

https://www.motionrc.com/products/freewing-80mm-edf-a-10-100a-dual-esc-2-050d002001

[motorc]

I have an older A-10 V1 80mm that I am planning to install a reversing ESC. I ordered a freewing 100A V2 reversing ESC and unfortunately the battery cables are only about a foot long and to get to the battery bay I'll need another 2 feet or so. Will more capacitors need to be installed on the ESC end to prevent damage to the ESC?

[Twowingtj]

The V2 is worth it. In addition, you'll be able to get parts for the V2 if you need them. V1 parts are not interchangeable.

[xviper]

Get the V2. More power, more features.

[GliderGuy]

Hello all. I have the opportunity to buy a v-1 new in box for $500. What do u think about that price? It’s non negotiable because the shipping is ridiculous. Looking for opinions? Yes or get the version 2 with sales tax will be $250 more.

I can tell you that I am totally impressed with V2 in all aspects. Had a V1 which was good, but Much more impressed with V2.

-GG

[bth9318]

Hello all. I have the opportunity to buy a v-1 new in box for $500. What do u think about that price? It’s non negotiable because the shipping is ridiculous. Looking for opinions? Yes or get the version 2 with sales tax will be $250 more.

[GliderGuy]

Hope that storm area was moving away from you.
Nice flying!

-GG

[Airguardian]

Sorry, duplicate.

[Airguardian]

Long time no brrrt!

[GliderGuy]

Glider guy. I no U have been over the choke thing a good amount!!! Put up with me just 1 more time.. I lost a beautiful wunala dreaming al37 some time ago.. it simply flew away on takeoff . and suspected my dynam detrum radio.. and have now changed to spectrum .. I now believe it was likely RF related.. I have 2 8s. 90mm jets that I'm sure need RF chokes.
. I'm ordering now there is a large size difference. 2 to about 6 or 8 mm. What sizes should I order. And where to place them.. and how many?? U have done diagrams. .
But I can't remember what thread. Thanx in advance. After reading hbuffs loss. I gota do it

Smart man!

If you order one of the several variety packs on Amazon, you will have a lot of “size” choices. Use the largest size for any given location that will fit. Obviously, the power lead wires will take the larger size, and you can put several wires down the choke’s center valley/trough.

For added RF noise protection, put a small one near each servo that is on a long wire.

Place the choke(s) as near to the ESC(s) as possible. Include ALL the wires on the non-motor side. No need to put chokes on the motor side of the ESC(s). The motor side of the ESC(s) is relatively RF “quiet. Several wires can be in one choke.

I always add a small one near the green ring one near the receiver, too.

Here is a rough image covering the above.

-GG