Official Freewing Twin 80mm/90mm A-10 Thunderbolt II Thread

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  • Lextek
    replied
    Has anyone replaced the stock wheels with Dubro low-bounce?

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  • Timo
    replied
    New colours for an old A-10 :-)
    It isn't finished yet, some details are missing. And weathering will look great. But flying the grey one for many years it was time for a new look. Another option would have been the prototype colours, something no one has done yet?

    Timo

    Click image for larger version

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  • 400driver
    replied
    Genius !!!! That has kept me awake last night, mant thanks.

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  • GliderGuy
    replied
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_0780.jpg Views:	0 Size:	106.8 KB ID:	449803
    Originally posted by 400driver
    Needed to change the the bent rod after a firm nose bounce. I notice there is quite a gap between the top of the strut and the retract body. I must not have noticed it because where the grub screw has marked the axle is in the same place but the whole nose leg now rests on the gear grub screw ! If I try to push the strut further onto the new pin, the rear sliding strut then will not attatch to the nosewheel.
    Perhaps i never noticed it but is that gap on anyones A10?
    Thanks
    You seem to be missing the steering arm that goes in that space. See my photo above and link below.

    Buy Freewing Nose Gear Steering Arm N527 online at Motion RC. Order online with fast delivery.


    She’s not gonna steer without the arm being present and connected to the nose steering servo.

    -GG

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  • 400driver
    replied
    Needed to change the the bent rod after a firm nose bounce. I notice there is quite a gap between the top of the strut and the retract body. I must not have noticed it because where the grub screw has marked the axle is in the same place but the whole nose leg now rests on the gear grub screw ! If I try to push the strut further onto the new pin, the rear sliding strut then will not attatch to the nosewheel.
    Perhaps i never noticed it but is that gap on anyones A10?
    Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • xviper
    replied
    Originally posted by jetpltrich

    I'll do what xviper was incapable of doing.



    Rich
    What do you mean by that? I told him it was on page 149.

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  • jetpltrich
    replied
    Originally posted by xviper
    There are 169 pages of photos in this thread. In fact, page 149 of those photos shows some pictures of the nose gear that I'm sure will depict what will help you in your resolution of the problem. It's somewhat tedious to go through all the photos but I'll bet there are other photos that show the same thing from different angles.
    I'll do what xviper was incapable of doing.



    Rich

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  • xviper
    replied
    There are 169 pages of photos in this thread. In fact, page 149 of those photos shows some pictures of the nose gear that I'm sure will depict what will help you in your resolution of the problem. It's somewhat tedious to go through all the photos but I'll bet there are other photos that show the same thing from different angles.

    Leave a comment:


  • jetpltrich
    replied
    Originally posted by Robbie9859901
    Does anyone have a picture of the nose gear installation in a V1? I'm not sure what happened but the spring that holds the gear door turns the nose gear left such that is doesn't retract properly.
    I have the V1 and can take some pictures for you. Before I do, I'm not so sure the gear door spring is turning the nose gear such that it won't retract properly. Take a close look at the nose gear turning servo and its linkage assembly and see if that's the problem. I have experienced this on numerous occasions on other aircraft, and a little 3n1 oil seems to clear the issue up, although temporally, oil dissipates and the issues returns.

    Rich

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  • Robbie9859901
    replied
    Does anyone have a picture of the nose gear installation in a V1? I'm not sure what happened but the spring that holds the gear door turns the nose gear left such that is doesn't retract properly.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ah's Availble
    replied
    Originally posted by xviper
    Did you ever do a throttle calibration?
    Yes, each time I made a change to the setup. Especially mindful of this on twins to avoid asymmetric thrust.

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  • xviper
    replied
    Originally posted by Ah's Availble

    Took a while, but replaced UBEC with larger capacity one. Same result, 20%-30% difference between batteries. Flying buddy thought that perhaps one of the EDFs may have had a rub or other issue that caused more power draw. Inspected EDFs and did notice some wear on the case of one the fans. Did not find slop or any issue that may cause rubbing. Swapped EDFs and issue went away. Any thoughts on what may have happenned?
    Did you ever do a throttle calibration?

    Leave a comment:


  • Ah's Availble
    replied
    Originally posted by Ah's Availble
    Flew it again today with batteries swapped. Same result 45% left on UBEC battery and 65% on other battery. I checked all or the servos and made sure none were stalling or growling. Open to any thoughts.
    Took a while, but replaced UBEC with larger capacity one. Same result, 20%-30% difference between batteries. Flying buddy thought that perhaps one of the EDFs may have had a rub or other issue that caused more power draw. Inspected EDFs and did notice some wear on the case of one the fans. Did not find slop or any issue that may cause rubbing. Swapped EDFs and issue went away. Any thoughts on what may have happenned?

    Leave a comment:


  • Ah's Availble
    replied
    Originally posted by Ah's Availble
    Flew it again today with batteries swapped. Same result 45% left on UBEC battery and 65% on other battery. I checked all or the servos and made sure none were stalling or growling. Open to any thoughts.
    Took a while, but replaced UBEC with larger capacity one. Same result, 20%-30% difference between batteries. Flying buddy thought that perhaps one of the EDFs may have had a rub or other issue that caused more power draw. Inspected EDFs and did notice some wear on the case of one the fans. Did not find slop or any issue that may cause rubbing. Swapped EDFs and issue went away. Any thoughts on what may have happenned?

    Leave a comment:


  • tab28682
    replied
    One nice effect of the V2 release last year was that I was able to get a super deal on a nicely upgraded and modified V1….:)

    Leave a comment:


  • xviper
    replied
    Originally posted by motorc
    Thanks for the help and the link. I agree that I was sent the ESC from a different model. I got these from another vender since motion at the time was out. I could not help but notice that the ones from motion do have extra caps so I went ahead and ordered theirs since they look like they should be a simple instillation and I'm sure in time I'll find a use for the others.
    Well, at least we know now what happened. I upgraded my old V1 to the newer V2 reversing ESCs before selling it and I don't recall any issues with wiring length.

    Leave a comment:


  • motorc
    replied
    Thanks for the help and the link. I agree that I was sent the ESC from a different model. I got these from another vender since motion at the time was out. I could not help but notice that the ones from motion do have extra caps so I went ahead and ordered theirs since they look like they should be a simple instillation and I'm sure in time I'll find a use for the others.

    Leave a comment:


  • xviper
    replied
    Originally posted by motorc
    I have an older A-10 V1 80mm that I am planning to install a reversing ESC. I ordered a freewing 100A V2 reversing ESC and unfortunately the battery cables are only about a foot long and to get to the battery bay I'll need another 2 feet or so. Will more capacitors need to be installed on the ESC end to prevent damage to the ESC?
    I would say "no" (re: more caps). Did you order the ones from "spare parts" for the A-10 80mm V2? Those should have had wiring of the proper length. If not, then I would suggest they sent ones from a different model.
    Buy Freewing 80mm EDF A-10 100A Dual ESC (2) online at Motion RC. Order online with fast delivery.

    Leave a comment:


  • motorc
    replied
    I have an older A-10 V1 80mm that I am planning to install a reversing ESC. I ordered a freewing 100A V2 reversing ESC and unfortunately the battery cables are only about a foot long and to get to the battery bay I'll need another 2 feet or so. Will more capacitors need to be installed on the ESC end to prevent damage to the ESC?

    Leave a comment:


  • Twowingtj
    replied
    The V2 is worth it. In addition, you'll be able to get parts for the V2 if you need them. V1 parts are not interchangeable.

    Leave a comment:

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