Official Freewing Twin 80mm/90mm A-10 Thunderbolt II Thread
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New colours for an old A-10 :-)
It isn't finished yet, some details are missing. And weathering will look great. But flying the grey one for many years it was time for a new look. Another option would have been the prototype colours, something no one has done yet?
Timo
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You seem to be missing the steering arm that goes in that space. See my photo above and link below.Needed to change the the bent rod after a firm nose bounce. I notice there is quite a gap between the top of the strut and the retract body. I must not have noticed it because where the grub screw has marked the axle is in the same place but the whole nose leg now rests on the gear grub screw ! If I try to push the strut further onto the new pin, the rear sliding strut then will not attatch to the nosewheel.
Perhaps i never noticed it but is that gap on anyones A10?
Thanks
She’s not gonna steer without the arm being present and connected to the nose steering servo.
-GGLeave a comment:
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Needed to change the the bent rod after a firm nose bounce. I notice there is quite a gap between the top of the strut and the retract body. I must not have noticed it because where the grub screw has marked the axle is in the same place but the whole nose leg now rests on the gear grub screw ! If I try to push the strut further onto the new pin, the rear sliding strut then will not attatch to the nosewheel.
Perhaps i never noticed it but is that gap on anyones A10?
Thanks1 PhotoLeave a comment:
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What do you mean by that? I told him it was on page 149.
I'll do what xviper was incapable of doing.
RichLeave a comment:
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I'll do what xviper was incapable of doing.There are 169 pages of photos in this thread. In fact, page 149 of those photos shows some pictures of the nose gear that I'm sure will depict what will help you in your resolution of the problem. It's somewhat tedious to go through all the photos but I'll bet there are other photos that show the same thing from different angles.
RichLeave a comment:
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There are 169 pages of photos in this thread. In fact, page 149 of those photos shows some pictures of the nose gear that I'm sure will depict what will help you in your resolution of the problem. It's somewhat tedious to go through all the photos but I'll bet there are other photos that show the same thing from different angles.Leave a comment:
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I have the V1 and can take some pictures for you. Before I do, I'm not so sure the gear door spring is turning the nose gear such that it won't retract properly. Take a close look at the nose gear turning servo and its linkage assembly and see if that's the problem. I have experienced this on numerous occasions on other aircraft, and a little 3n1 oil seems to clear the issue up, although temporally, oil dissipates and the issues returns.
RichLeave a comment:
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Does anyone have a picture of the nose gear installation in a V1? I'm not sure what happened but the spring that holds the gear door turns the nose gear left such that is doesn't retract properly.Leave a comment:
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Did you ever do a throttle calibration?
Took a while, but replaced UBEC with larger capacity one. Same result, 20%-30% difference between batteries. Flying buddy thought that perhaps one of the EDFs may have had a rub or other issue that caused more power draw. Inspected EDFs and did notice some wear on the case of one the fans. Did not find slop or any issue that may cause rubbing. Swapped EDFs and issue went away. Any thoughts on what may have happenned?Leave a comment:
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Took a while, but replaced UBEC with larger capacity one. Same result, 20%-30% difference between batteries. Flying buddy thought that perhaps one of the EDFs may have had a rub or other issue that caused more power draw. Inspected EDFs and did notice some wear on the case of one the fans. Did not find slop or any issue that may cause rubbing. Swapped EDFs and issue went away. Any thoughts on what may have happenned?Leave a comment:
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Took a while, but replaced UBEC with larger capacity one. Same result, 20%-30% difference between batteries. Flying buddy thought that perhaps one of the EDFs may have had a rub or other issue that caused more power draw. Inspected EDFs and did notice some wear on the case of one the fans. Did not find slop or any issue that may cause rubbing. Swapped EDFs and issue went away. Any thoughts on what may have happenned?Leave a comment:
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One nice effect of the V2 release last year was that I was able to get a super deal on a nicely upgraded and modified V1….:)Leave a comment:
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Well, at least we know now what happened. I upgraded my old V1 to the newer V2 reversing ESCs before selling it and I don't recall any issues with wiring length.Thanks for the help and the link. I agree that I was sent the ESC from a different model. I got these from another vender since motion at the time was out. I could not help but notice that the ones from motion do have extra caps so I went ahead and ordered theirs since they look like they should be a simple instillation and I'm sure in time I'll find a use for the others.
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Thanks for the help and the link. I agree that I was sent the ESC from a different model. I got these from another vender since motion at the time was out. I could not help but notice that the ones from motion do have extra caps so I went ahead and ordered theirs since they look like they should be a simple instillation and I'm sure in time I'll find a use for the others.
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I would say "no" (re: more caps). Did you order the ones from "spare parts" for the A-10 80mm V2? Those should have had wiring of the proper length. If not, then I would suggest they sent ones from a different model.I have an older A-10 V1 80mm that I am planning to install a reversing ESC. I ordered a freewing 100A V2 reversing ESC and unfortunately the battery cables are only about a foot long and to get to the battery bay I'll need another 2 feet or so. Will more capacitors need to be installed on the ESC end to prevent damage to the ESC?
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I have an older A-10 V1 80mm that I am planning to install a reversing ESC. I ordered a freewing 100A V2 reversing ESC and unfortunately the battery cables are only about a foot long and to get to the battery bay I'll need another 2 feet or so. Will more capacitors need to be installed on the ESC end to prevent damage to the ESC?Leave a comment:
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The V2 is worth it. In addition, you'll be able to get parts for the V2 if you need them. V1 parts are not interchangeable.Leave a comment:

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