Official Freewing 64mm F-86 Sabre Thread

[chipset35]

Your experience is not typical for these planes. EDF's can be difficult to fly, but this forum is literally filled with people who love flying these planes, and are pleased with freewings quality ( generally). If you cared to share where you are from, perhaps someone here might be able to help you get over the rough spots.

Been having the senior members of my RC club here in Virginia helping me along the way.
I took all of the electronics out of the FW Sabre F-86 and tossed the fuselage, but kept the wings.

[chipset35]

The EDF unit is not set in the groove of the fuselage when you unpackage it. You have to move it aft into the groove. When you mount the wing, the groove built into the wing captures the lower flange of the unit and locks it in place..

That is correct.
And that groove is not enough to keep the EDF from shifting.

[Race 22 Crew]

The EDF unit is not set in the groove of the fuselage when you unpackage it. You have to move it aft into the groove. When you mount the wing, the groove built into the wing captures the lower flange of the unit and locks it in place..

[RCjetdude]

Reading back through this you said you mounted the EDF as the instruction manual states. Was it not already secure in the fuselage when you got it?

[bbaumer]

I ended up shelving the 64mm Freewing F-86 Sabre and giving up.
The issue is that the several attempts I tried; before realizing the thrust was reversed, due to the EDF having the wires crossed from the factory affecting thrust, caused the foam to become too damaged around the nose of the aircraft.
Then even with experts at my clubs field helping me, the jet was now able to get some air speed, but kept making a hard right turn into the ground regardless of control, trim, etc etc.
Upon inspection, the way the EDF mounts is a very bad design, as the only things holding it in place are one small plastic tab that inserts into the bottom of the wing where there is a larger foam notch (useless), the friction from the wires beneath the EDF in the foam channel for them.
And, the friction of being pushed into the foam which surrounds the mounting point.
As a result, between that weak design and the four ground impacts, the EDF keeps shifting/moving upon throttle up and results in the before mentioned crashes.
At this point I will salvage the electronics from it.
Kind of scared to purchase another Freewing Product at this point.

Your experience is not typical for these planes. EDF's can be difficult to fly, but this forum is literally filled with people who love flying these planes, and are pleased with freewings quality ( generally). If you cared to share where you are from, perhaps someone here might be able to help you get over the rough spots.

[chipset35]

So you tried to fly this jet with the thrust reversed?

When I flew it with the thrust reversed I did not know at the time that it was reversed.
Then of course after realizing this and fixing the issue, tried to fly it, but the EDF keeps moving at throttle and throwing the whole flight off.

[RCjetdude]

So you tried to fly this jet with the thrust reversed?

[chipset35]

I ended up shelving the 64mm Freewing F-86 Sabre and giving up.
The issue is that the several attempts I tried; before realizing the thrust was reversed, due to the EDF having the wires crossed from the factory affecting thrust, caused the foam to become too damaged around the nose of the aircraft.
Then even with experts at my clubs field helping me, the jet was now able to get some air speed, but kept making a hard right turn into the ground regardless of control, trim, etc etc.
Upon inspection, the way the EDF mounts is a very bad design, as the only things holding it in place are one small plastic tab that inserts into the bottom of the wing where there is a larger foam notch (useless), the friction from the wires beneath the EDF in the foam channel for them.
And, the friction of being pushed into the foam which surrounds the mounting point.
As a result, between that weak design and the four ground impacts, the EDF keeps shifting/moving upon throttle up and results in the before mentioned crashes.
At this point I will salvage the electronics from it.
Kind of scared to purchase another Freewing Product at this point.

[rifleman_btx]

Yeah the color code doesnt mean anything, they are more of a reference guide if you pull the system apart and remember what colors go together to give forward thrust. I have to write it down or I'll forget what went to what in 30 seconds. All 3 wires are interchangeable.

[chipset35]

Air moving backwards sounds like reversed motor rotation.

Try swapping the connections of any 2 of the 3 leads between motor and ESC. (sometimes that's hard to reach after the model is assembled)

Color code between motor and ESC is essentially meaningless. Matching red to red, black to black, etc is not necessary.
The ESC provides a variable voltage and frequency simulated 3 phase AC to the motor. The only thing that happens by changing which wire is connected to which is reversing the rotation of the motor.

Thank You so much!
I will try it today as there are three color matched wires, red, black and yellow.
But the yellow does not have a yellow mate it only has a blue one.
Should I try swapping the red and blue first or is it a swap each until it works?

[fhhuber]

Air moving backwards sounds like reversed motor rotation.

Try swapping the connections of any 2 of the 3 leads between motor and ESC. (sometimes that's hard to reach after the model is assembled)

Color code between motor and ESC is essentially meaningless. Matching red to red, black to black, etc is not necessary.
The ESC provides a variable voltage and frequency simulated 3 phase AC to the motor. The only thing that happens by changing which wire is connected to which is reversing the rotation of the motor.

[chipset35]

I have a problem with my Freewing F-86 Sabre 64mm....everytime I give it throttle it does not move and in fact seems that there is more air being forced out the front than the back of the jet!
I mounted the EDF as the instruction manual states.
Just to make sure, one side of the EDF has the fan blades and the other has a small gold color motor(?) or something on it.
Which way should it be?
The photo in the manual shows the gold part to the rear and the fan to the front.
Any help would be appreciated as I have never got this thing to work properly.
Motion RC told me to do a throttle recalibration which I did.

[hotrod23t]

Sorry wrog thread

[hotrod23t]

Just purchased the power system from new mirage jet going too install in my f86 this wpuld be an upgrade yes? The flying wt is within 3 oz

[Race 22 Crew]

I’ve got a scale. I’ll have to do an experiment to see what I get.

[fhhuber]

Now, do I order the 80mm F86 or the A4?

A4

No question about it.

*****

This is something I say a lot...

You may not be getting max thrust for launch at full throttle.

There is some rpm above which any propeller or EDF fan "stalls" due to lack of intake air when the aircraft has no forward airspeed. advancing the throttle further is counterproductive, especially for hand launch.
Conventional 2-blade open prop planes make up for it with huge disc area and thus usually can still produce static thrust near equal to aircraft weight, or even greater than aircraft weight with the prop stalled.
the EDF doesn't have the disc area.

Tie the plane's tail to a fish scale (put a model without landing gear on a small 4 wheel wagon or something so it can pull without sliding on the belly. do not block any intake or "cheater holes") and measure thrust as you slowly increase throttle. You'll find a point where thrust drops (usually suddenly) as you continue to increase throttle. That is max throttle you should be using at hand launch. Max static thrust. Let the plane build some speed, then gradually add more. (maybe 5 to 10 seconds after release you can be at full throttle and not stall the fan, depending on climb angle)

Its counter-intuitive because you think that more throttle = more thrust. But that is only true if the fan can take in air fast enough to not stall.

[Race 22 Crew]

One more item to be aware of. The nose takes a beating even with good landings. Park Flyer Plastics has an aftermarket plastic nose piece. Works well at protecting the nose.

[Race 22 Crew]

A couple photos from my set up.

[Race 22 Crew]

I started out with the same issues with launching as many have for my first three attempts. Overhand and underhand attempts that resulted in nose damage twice. I have flown for years and have had several hand launch airplanes. The airplane was in the ground before I could even get my hand on the sticks on two attempts. I’m flying with 3s 2200 batteries so I knew I’m a bit heavy to start with. I fly without tanks and have added wing tip skids to protect the wing servos.

I launch at full throttle and pretty much stay flat out, low alt, high speed fly bys. As my timer goes off at 2.5 mins I’ll make one last pass to a break away at mid field, come back to half throttle, fly the downwind, base and final. Chop throttle as I approach the end of our runway (I land on the grass next to it) and keep wings level as I feed in elevator to keep it just off the ground as the speed bleeds off until it touches down. Cells are right at 3.80V

So after flying it for it for about a year and a half, a couple tips that have worked for me since my first three attempts. Using a straight edge, set the elevators level with the top surface of the horizontal stab. I like the high rate on my elevator so I don’t run out of elevator on approach, and low rate on the ailerons. I have actually toned the ailerons down even more. Mine likes a lot of elevator in the turns to keep the turn level. As you ready for launch, trim in all but a couple clicks of up elevator. I hold the fuselage just behind the wings. Apply full throttle, lift to a 15-20 degree nose up attitude, and give it a good FIRM toss into the wind. Don’t baby it, but you are not throwing a touchdown either. Using this method the airplane will usually fly a nice arc and then start a gentle climb out as it builds speed. It will still occasionally give me a little roll, especially if you have a little cross wind, but you have time to get on the sticks now to level quickly as it climbs out. I will usually start a turn as it climbs out and away. At this point I am trimming out the elevator back to neutral and in my case, two more clicks down to trim for full throttle.

After resetting my elevator neutral to level with the top of the horz, this procedure has worked every time since those first three attempts.

This last week in a decent to make a pass it gave me an uncommanded roll, which I was able to correct, but something didn’t seem right so I landed. I found some wrinkles in the top of the wings that weren’t there before. Upon inspection I found both of the wing spars had broken loose for about three inches on the inboard side. The wrinkles on the top of the wings are right above where the spars broke loose. I would suggest checking your spars if you have been flying yours for a while now. I just about folded my wing. Spar repairs are in progress.

Overall, I really enjoy flying the F86. Its not overpowered by any means and I don’t expect much vertical from it. After a pass, I’ll climb out 45 degrees away to trade the airspeed for altitude, do a smooth turn back for another high speed pass. Repeat repeat and repeat. It is a fun airplane and I look forward to flying it every trip to the field.

Sorry for being a bit long, the info above has worked for me and my setup/flying style. Hopefully my experiences will help someone who may be struggling find what works for them.

Now, do I order the 80mm F86 or the A4?

[Asher1]

Has anyone tried using a 4 cell bat instead of the 3 recommend