Official Nexa OV-10 Bronco 1800mm ARF Discussion Thread

[fhhuber]

I have experienced failures of the connections between battery and ESC. Having a separate RX pack is the only defense vs this failure in flight.

We are using current equal to what is used in arc welding. a small flaw in a solder joint can lead t heating the connection,melting the solder and disconnecting the battery from the power system. You might see signs of the issue before failure or you might suddenly find you have no power and no control.

Every model using more than 4S, I use a separate RX battery, not a BEC.

[Rosytime]

The A-10 ESCs I'm using have a separate BEC already in the harness. It's rated at 5 volts and should be plenty for the servos. As I said I'm using the 225s servos and at 5volts should be more than enough torque. They also fit perfectly in the servo slot on the hatches. I looked at Savox also but there wasn't one that for perfectly as the Hi-Tech. Again, I'm using what I have on hand and some of it is overkill.

[MikeT]

Here's the real deal Bob ;)
The A-10 came with OPTO ESC's which means they had no internal BEC whereas the Dual 100A ESC's came prewired with a 8A UBEC into one of the EC5 connectors.
Now the ZTW UBEC that you referenced is a great choice and one that I plan to use (have about half dozen in the parts supply bin).
You have 2 choices on wiring this in. You can wire this into the two Beatle ESC's you mentioned(similar to the A-10 config) or go with a separate battery powering the ZTW, but either way the red wires of the two throttle connectors on the Beatle ESC's need to be isolated (cuts out the internal BEC). If going with a separate battery for the ZTW UBEC, I would recommend the 1300mAh 2S Admiral LiPo.
A separate power battery is a pain in the arse to incorporate into the electrical system. I prefer to wire into the flight battery and then use the Scorpion BackupGuard for those instances where pilot/mechanical errors zap the flight battery.
With the Scorpion, that is where the ZTW adjustable voltages of 5, 5.5, and 6 are perfect. I set mine usually at 5.5v when used on most systems that aren't using Hitec servos and at 6v in those that are.
The reason for the higher BEC voltage is because the Scorpion kicks on at 5v which is where the majority of BEC's on ARF planes are set which just drains the Scorpion as soon as the system is initialized.
As always, if you need some further technical insight just feel free to give me a jingle.;)

Great explanation. Although I don't find using a separate flight pack that much trouble.

Mike

[sam51401]

FYI
So been looking at servo options and went to several sites that carry the Pichler ARF of this plane and see what their listing gives for servo size. I found 3.0kg/4.8v and 3.5kg/6v listed in the specs and looking at the HS-225MG, its 3.9kg/4.8v and 4.8kg/6v. I will be getting these or a similar Savox servo to install.

[OV10]

So I use one of these?

https://www.motionrc.com/products/ztw-10a-bec-ubec

and what battery should I use? I’m new to electrics but remember reading on the official FW A-10 forum that it didn’t require the removal of one of the ESC power wires, both could remain to power the rec? Help!:Confused:

Here's the real deal Bob ;)
The A-10 came with OPTO ESC's which means they had no internal BEC whereas the Dual 100A ESC's came prewired with a 8A UBEC into one of the EC5 connectors.
Now the ZTW UBEC that you referenced is a great choice and one that I plan to use (have about half dozen in the parts supply bin).
You have 2 choices on wiring this in. You can wire this into the two Beatle ESC's you mentioned(similar to the A-10 config) or go with a separate battery powering the ZTW, but either way the red wires of the two throttle connectors on the Beatle ESC's need to be isolated (cuts out the internal BEC). If going with a separate battery for the ZTW UBEC, I would recommend the 1300mAh 2S Admiral LiPo.
A separate power battery is a pain in the arse to incorporate into the electrical system. I prefer to wire into the flight battery and then use the Scorpion BackupGuard for those instances where pilot/mechanical errors zap the flight battery.
With the Scorpion, that is where the ZTW adjustable voltages of 5, 5.5, and 6 are perfect. I set mine usually at 5.5v when used on most systems that aren't using Hitec servos and at 6v in those that are.
The reason for the higher BEC voltage is because the Scorpion kicks on at 5v which is where the majority of BEC's on ARF planes are set which just drains the Scorpion as soon as the system is initialized.
As always, if you need some further technical insight just feel free to give me a jingle.;)

[Boots Whirlygig]

I'd run a separate battery to power the electronics. .
Mike

So I use one of these?

https://www.motionrc.com/products/ztw-10a-bec-ubec

and what battery should I use? I’m new to electrics but remember reading on the official FW A-10 forum that it didn’t require the removal of one of the ESC power wires, both could remain to power the rec? Help!:Confused:

[sam51401]

Hello Sam..........sorry ya missed post #33 where I indicated what the scale prop size would be at 14.5".
I did forget to give the full scale diameter as a reference............102 inches.;)

Thanks as I overlooked that post. So I'm trying diff props in ecalc to get a feel for several combinations.
I got mine today and will retrieve it a little later.
One thing needs clarified on the spinners, one diagram has spinner dia at 258mm(2.25") but another diagram of the cowl has dia at 263mm(2.5") I think. 2 1/2" three blade spinners can be had at tower by the way.
Can anyone confirm spinner dia that will fit the cowl flange please?

Update: motors on hand EMax 4030/10, 6s 6250, Castle Ice 100a.

[Spitfire4life]

Hey OV-10, glad you found the new manual helpful.

Its an over used saying but balsa does indeed fly better, and like Aros said, nothing to take away from the massive progress in foam, but if you are looking for a more all weather model and great longevity, balsa and composite is where its at. Its perhaps a larger investment, but its sound one that will be far longer lasting. After a year I think most find that you struggle to keep a foam model looking pristine, but a balsa (and especially composite models) will keep their looks for years if take care of.

If you havn't yet taken the plunge into balsa but are considering it, you'll not much more better placed than with one of the BH range.

S.

[Twowingtj]

I've had some balsa models for over 20 years. Very durable and more resistant to hanger rash. You still have to handle them like you care about them and maintain them well of course.

[Aros]

Having flown both foam and balsa for years I can say unequivocally that there's definitely a more solid feel with balsa. Both in the air and on the ground as mentioned. It's not a slam on foam, in fact the new gen foam models we are producing with Freewing have most definitely bridged the gap between the two, where foam has a more rigid feel to it than in year's past. As much as I love my foam models it's hard to replace the look and feel of flying balsa and composite.

[Woodcock]

I couldn’t wait, had to see how it looks, so like a kid on Xmas morning I tore thru the wrapping! This is a big beautiful Bronco!
Just shy of six foot by six foot.

Im going four cell with the FMS 4258-650kv and ZTW Beatles 70A ESCs.

Question about the ZTW Beatles, will they provide adequate power for eight servos, three retracts and lights? After I got them I see they are 3A, all my others are 5A. :Confused:

I think that's a really nice looking model. Don't be to hard on the foam folks that have never flown a plane like this. They will not be believers until they have flown one of these. I believe Balsa and Composite flys better than foam, but this may be chalked up to personal opinion. My foam planes seem to fly fine. But when you land, a balsa plane does not sound like you just landed a foam bear cooler with wheels. They sound much better, feel better to the touch, solid, and smooth. The finish of a balsa model will hold up much better over time, with no gatering ever.

Woody

[OV10]

I have been searching for the dia of the real prop but haven't found that yet. Does anyone know what the prop dia is and what size of MA 3 blade prop may be most suitable? As for spinners, Tower has Dubro 3 blade spinners in 2.5" that will fit and the MA props do come in a pusher version that i can have counter rotating.
Im thinking a 50ish size motor as like the MRC Tomcat 5035 or similar running on 6s, i have plenty of those 6s for the EDF's.

Hello Sam..........sorry ya missed post #33 where I indicated what the scale prop size would be at 14.5".
I did forget to give the full scale diameter as a reference............102 inches.;)

[OV10]

Hi OV10, this is taken from the manual that's on our site ;) Hope this is helpful and that you get your's by the weekend.

S.

Stuart...........Thanx for posting those dims. When this was first announced the manual hadn't been put on the site.
I have now D/L'd the manual. It is a better rearrangement of the PICHLER manual and more comprehensive at 45 pgs versus 36 :Cool:

[sam51401]

I have been searching for the dia of the real prop but haven't found that yet. Does anyone know what the prop dia is and what size of MA 3 blade prop may be most suitable? As for spinners, Tower has Dubro 3 blade spinners in 2.5" that will fit and the MA props do come in a pusher version that i can have counter rotating.
Im thinking a 50ish size motor as like the MRC Tomcat 5035 or similar running on 6s, i have plenty of those 6s for the EDF's.

[MikeT]

I'd run a separate battery to power the electronics. .
Mike

[Boots Whirlygig]

I couldn’t wait, had to see how it looks, so like a kid on Xmas morning I tore thru the wrapping! This is a big beautiful Bronco!
Just shy of six foot by six foot.

Im going four cell with the FMS 4258-650kv and ZTW Beatles 70A ESCs.

Question about the ZTW Beatles, will they provide adequate power for eight servos, three retracts and lights? After I got them I see they are 3A, all my others are 5A. :Confused:

[Spitfire4life]

Hi OV10, this is taken from the manual that's on our site ;) Hope this is helpful and that you get your's by the weekend.

S.

[OV10]

I'm busy doing my equip mod research and posted earlier on my power plant selection. My next task is a better LG. Just as Boots wasn't too excited based on his remark about them, I too am looking to remedy the not so stellar stock provision. Since I don't have a bird in hand.........yet, maybe one of ya'll that does could provide some measurements of the struts(both nose and main) to further my research.
Possibly a rough drawn hand sketch posted as a PDF.:Cool:
I'm close and can't wait to share but don't want to jump the gun if my discovery dimensions aren't gonna hack it.
Boots, give the 4258-kV460 motor some serious consideration. ;)

[Rosytime]

On my smaller OV-10 I have 3 bladed props. I did a google search once I figured out what size I needed. The only downside is that I had counter rotating props and they don't make the spinners in both patterns. I had to carve out the clockwise spinner to make it work. Now if you want to spend the money Dave Brown and some others will make whatever size and orientation spinner you want. The spinners in the kit are just a tad over 2 1/4 inches.

[Boots Whirlygig]

Rosytime, the power 32s should be ideal! I’m thinking of using FMS 4258-650kv or FW 4258-580kv, but then finding the compatable 3 blade spinners becomes an issue.
Hey Woody you can put me down for proper struts, just doesn’t look right with those skinny legs and tiny tires, not really the all terrain look!
This video should make everyone a Bronco believer, you’ll swear he flies it thru a tree!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q4PTYocezBw