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Tired-Iron's P-38 Build
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TI, this is a really great build/mod blog. Thank you for doing it. I have to admit that after reading all 7 pages, I am still a tad unclear about what mods have to be made to stock and FMS P-51 struts. Are you somehow grafting (for lack of a better word) the lower shock-absorbing end of the P-51 strut onto the base of a stock strut? I apologize if I'm being overly dense.
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I think it was a 1/8" Bob.Originally posted by BadBob View Post
What size washer did you use?
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What size washer did you use?Originally posted by TiredIronGRB View PostI found a solution for getting the nose gear door to shut when adding washers under the rear mounting tabs to correct the rake, if you move the door pull rod to the other side of the mounting tab it will allow the door to shut.
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Stock position.
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New position.
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These post will be on the announcement of the p38 and not just those two. There is a bunch of knowledgeable people that posted that information. I don't want to take away from anyone.
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Aero dale if you will look back through earlier post of the p38 you will find numerous post on cg. BTW there's alot of reading but alot of good information that you might need. Somebody else may be able to chime in to help you Zero in on it. Also maybe PM Lon or Aros 2 very Knowledgeable men on the plane.
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P-38 is looking mighty fine, love the detail work, Great Job with the screening!
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Would appreciate comments from people currently flying the Flightline P-38 Lightning regarding CG location. I am not able to get the CG far enough forward to put it according to instructions even with two batteries. Has it been typical to add weight to the nose of the P-38?
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Bob, here's the main P-38 thread.Originally posted by BadBob View PostI just got my 3300 mah, 60C, 4S Turnigy battery packs from HobbyKing and noticed that they have these weird plugs on them. They have a male on one side and a female on the other. What the heck is this? I want to put Deans on them but I'm told by my local hobby shop that the wires on these batteries are rated at 10AWG and the Deans could overheat. What about it guys, a little help here.
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I just got my 3300 mah, 60C, 4S Turnigy battery packs from HobbyKing and noticed that they have these weird plugs on them. They have a male on one side and a female on the other. What the heck is this? I want to put Deans on them but I'm told by my local hobby shop that the wires on these batteries are rated at 10AWG and the Deans could overheat. What about it guys, a little help here.
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Just curious, but does painting the prop spinners effect the overall prop balance?Originally posted by TiredIronGRB View PostA little more paint work...and some of the decals modified/applied
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No more yellow, can't wait to get my nose-art done.
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Had to cover up all that clear plastic.
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Just curious, but does painting the prop spinners effect the overall prop balance?Originally posted by TiredIronGRB View PostA little more paint work...and some of the decals modified/applied
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No more yellow, can't wait to get my nose-art done.
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Had to cover up all that clear plastic.
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I didn't cut them, I just cut out the screen to fit tight and pushed it in.
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How did you cut away the air intakes to get the screens in? I'm considering using a hot wire cutter and gluing them back on with foam-cure and micro balloon filler.Originally posted by TiredIronGRB View Post[ATTACH=CONFIG]n35484[/ATTACH]
Painted the clear plastic around the lights.
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I did the gear rake mod using two washers under the rear of the mounting flange.
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It's a good idea to glue the washers together to prevent a cussing fit.
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These were a job to cut out.
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But they turned out nice.
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I primed the spinners and cowls with an alkyd olive drab to cover the yellow, once they dry for a day I'll paint them with the same acrylic paint I used on the nose.
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May have missed this question somewhere, but how much average flight time do you get from your 2-5200's at 10C? Just want to be sure I'm seeing 2 of them before I order a set. Thanks. Love your build post!Originally posted by TiredIronGRB View PostBeen doing a little detailing waiting on my HotRod pinstriping guy to come do my nose art...
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Painted the nose, haven't decided what to do with the spinners and cowl.
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Cut some aluminum screen for the cowls, will probably do some for the rear air intakes as well.
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Like most kits the guns come with solid ends so I drilled them out.
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Went to Lowes and matched the paint colors, the sample paint comes in a low sheen which matches nicely.
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Nice fit.
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Hi guys.
New to the site. A little off topic here. Just got my '38 and going through the manual. On P.11, Integrated Circuit Module and receiver set up. It shows that the Ailerons, L/G and flaps plug into the RX from the ICM, but isn't clear as to where. Do they go into the standard plugs, I.E., Ail=Ch.1, L/G=Ch. 5 and flaps=Ch.6? (Forget why the Ail channel is in Ch. 1 and the Thr. is Ch.3 on this plane). I plan on adding the MrSound Sound System V4.1 W/TT-25 later. Motion tells me that I will need 2 of these even tho there's an option in just 1 for 2 speakers. Also I'll need an extra channel I guess if I want the machine gun sound effect. I'm using a Graupner MZ-24, 12 ch. TX and I have an extra 12 channel RX.
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Hello Ocalavol and welcome to the Squawk.Originally posted by Ocalavol View PostI'm new to the site, so please forgive if this question has already been covered. Has anyone looked for struts mounting the main wheel from the side instead of the center-offset P-51 struts? Having the suspension is worth doing, but the look isn't quite right. Regardless, great job improving an already top-notch ARF.
Brandonmoon who contributes a lot of good mod info over on the RCG forum just recently started contributing here on the Squawk but I can't seem to locate his FMS 1400 P-40B strut mod for the FlightLine P-38 so here is a link to it over on RCG.
Best Regards,
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