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Tired-Iron's P-38 Build
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Yes, Brandon Moon used P-40 struts but had to us part of the stock strut with the Z bend in it.
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I'm new to the site, so please forgive if this question has already been covered. Has anyone looked for struts mounting the main wheel from the side instead of the center-offset P-51 struts? Having the suspension is worth doing, but the look isn't quite right. Regardless, great job improving an already top-notch ARF.
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Ok, thought I'd share how I modified the FW P51 Strut for use as the nose gear in this plane. I cut off the stock nose gear strut at the bottom of the steering tiller. Then I drilled out the top of the compression cylinder of the P51 strut to the depth of the stock wire. Then I opened up the side of the cylinder enough to slide over the tiller arm. This gives a length that is about 1/4" longer than the stock nose strut. I then drilled a hole in the spring shaft that shortened the length of travel when there was no weight on the nose gear. I found a spring that was the same weight material but about 1/4" which works just fine. I then JB welded the cylinder to the steering tiller and re-assembled the whole strut and it fits just fine with the Robart 2.5" tire. A pretty simple exercise with minimal change. Forgot to say that I used a roll pin in the compression shaft rather than bothering to drill and tap like the original.7 Photos
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When you are typing a response, click the camera at the top left of the box. It will give you two options, click the upload tab and direct it to you pictures. The pictures have to be within a certain size. I use Photo Shop Elements from Adobe and resize my pics to around 1500 pixels and then save them in a folder called web shots. Then when I want to upload, I just go to that folder and select the picture and the computer does the rest.Originally posted by PlaneCrazy View PostHow do you upload pictures?
Just like that.
Grossman561 Photo
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I was not happy with the increase in length of the NG. I was especially worried about the higher AoA.
So I dismantled the nose gear, removed the centre pin and drilled a new stop hole halfway down the shaft,(3/8-1/2") tapped it to 3mm, clipped the spring back by about 1/4 and re-assembled.
I think this is much better.5 Photos
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Originally posted by PlaneCrazy View PostI just got done modifying my nose gear strut and it came out perfect. The mod uses the stock steering tiller and a Robart 2-1/2 wheel with the suspension rod re-drilled to shorten the compression stroke by 1/4". I'll take some pictures and post them later. Oh, I'm using the Freewing 1400mm P51 strut for the nose gear.
Cool, I'm glad you got it finished.
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Originally posted by TSHobbies View PostI clipped the spring on mine,whcih worked fine, but when the plane lifts off, the stryt would extend to full length,making it too long to retract,so I had to tie the scissor at to keep it from extending too far..it still works..it just wont extend further than I want it to.
I drilled the center strut shaft and put a roll pin through it to keep the strut from fully extending.
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I just got done modifying my nose gear strut and it came out perfect. The mod uses the stock steering tiller and a Robart 2-1/2 wheel with the suspension rod re-drilled to shorten the compression stroke by 1/4". I'll take some pictures and post them later. Oh, I'm using the Freewing 1400mm P51 strut for the nose gear.
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I clipped the spring on mine,whcih worked fine, but when the plane lifts off, the stryt would extend to full length,making it too long to retract,so I had to tie the scissor at to keep it from extending too far..it still works..it just wont extend further than I want it to.
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I don't think so TI. If it can be reamed out straight, that will leave 0.050 walls which, when bonded to the steering tiller will become one solid piece. I can't see that much sideward force being exerted on this strut. Anyway, we'll find out. I'm not sure we'll mill it out or just drill it out because I have access to a good drill press as well and some sharp drills. Can't drill too deep though because the spring cavity about dead ends at about the same depth as the strut wire so gotta be careful there.Originally posted by TiredIronGRB View PostMilling out the strut was my first plan but was afraid it would be too weak.
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Milling out the strut was my first plan but was afraid it would be too weak.
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Tr, I have a spare strut that I can work with......I'm one who bought two rights and then learned I needed two lefts. I have a friend that has a dream shop set up to do just models.........of all kinds from giant scale warbirds to small foamies. He has lathes, milling machines, saws......you get the picture. Anyway we are talking about milling out the end of the FW strut so it will accept the stock steering arm..in otherwords, bury the round piece and arm in the end of the stock FW P51 strut. Then I would JB weld the whole thing and then to get the proper length, I'll do as Tired Iron suggested and clip the spring..........or buy a shorter one and pin the inner tube to limit downward movement. Drilling out the strut will still leave approx. 0.050" walls which should be plenty for strength. Film at 11.... :huh:Originally posted by Trobinson99 View PostAndy, see how mine turned out...yes you get 1/4 to 1/2" rise in the nose. I finished upgrading the struts and adding oleo suspension. I am not sure I am happy with the nose gear. It has raised the nose at least 1/2". I am concerned about the impact to the AoA. Not sure if I should retap the shock and lower it or just go and fly and see how it handles on take off and landing.
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Andy, see how mine turned out...yes you get 1/4 to 1/2" rise in the nose. I finished upgrading the struts and adding oleo suspension. I am not sure I am happy with the nose gear. It has raised the nose at least 1/2". I am concerned about the impact to the AoA. Not sure if I should retap the shock and lower it or just go and fly and see how it handles on take off and landing.Originally posted by PlaneCrazy View PostI am in the process of doing the nose wheel after successfully doing the mains. Do you have a 0.250" increase in length in the nose strut. With the FW strut up against the trunion, there is about a 1/4 increase from the trunion to the center of the axle. Still trying to figure this out as I am still a little confused about the steering as well. Thanks Andy4 Photos
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I also cut about .5" off the spring and pinned the inner strut to prevent down travel.
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I see that but if the FW strut is all the way up against the retract it is still 1/4" longer.Originally posted by TiredIronGRB View PostGo back and look at the pictures, I cut the stock strut without removing it from the retract. I didn't use the steering trunion I made one in the FW strut which is all the way up against the retract.
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Go back and look at the pictures, I cut the stock strut without removing it from the retract. I didn't use the steering trunion I made one in the FW strut which is all the way up against the retract.
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I am in the process of doing the nose wheel after successfully doing the mains. Do you have a 0.250" increase in length in the nose strut. With the FW strut up against the trunion, there is about a 1/4 increase from the trunion to the center of the axle. Still trying to figure this out as I am still a little confused about the steering as well.Originally posted by TiredIronGRB View Post
I used about an inch of the stock strut with the C-clip and the new strut mounts on it.
Thanks
Andy
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