Tired-Iron's P-38 Build

[Hink64]

TI - is that what you did or just cut the original shaft and use it to connect to the FW struts?

[TiredIronGRB]

What would the best method in removing the nose gear clip? Man that thing is shoe horned in there.

You will need to disassemble the retract.

[Hink64]

What would the best method in removing the nose gear clip? Man that thing is shoe horned in there.

[Trobinson99]

My install is basically done. I fabricated a new axle for the nose gear, but I also ordered 2 more lower arms and axles. For the nose gear, all I did was cut the stock gear leg to length so I could install the new strut to it without changing anything about the steering linkage. My mains compress a lot just like everyone is saying. My nose does not compress at all. With the rake of the nose (I only added 1 washers worth of space on all retracts), the compression force is not properly aligned to cause it to move. It WILL compress, if you get it started a little. So, my intent is to put a small spacer in the track where the spring set screw goes, to stop it from extending all the way. I will put a spacer in the mains to keep them extended more as well. I' m not too worried about any lost travel. Its still better than no suspension, and looks totally awesome anyway.

-CC

Hi CubCrazy, when you made the mod to the struts, I assume you left about 3/8" from the stock strut below the steering arm to install into the top of the oleo. With the mains compressing and the nose gear strut lengthened was there any concern on the change to the AoA. From what I can tell with my experimenting, the nose is going to raise about 1/2" with the extra length of the steering arm.

Am I worrying over nothing?

T

[Grossman56]

It's sure pretty, maybe he had best leave it on the ground for us to admire!
Seriously though, its pretty cool to see the modders jump on this one and create an even better looking bird, great job!!

Grossman56

[TiredIronGRB]

Lol...I think we better see if it flies first.

[Aros]

I say FlightLineRC just clones Tired Iron's bird and be done with it. :D

[Grossman56]

Yes definitely, and with the Robart diamond tread tires, that's a complete winner.

[Aros]

Agreed. These should definitely be heavily considered for V2. I know cost was a reason for the existing struts but man it's worth a price point increase having scale oleos on this bad girl.

[Grossman56]

You know, the more I see the L/G with the P51 struts, the more I think that this should be the way V2 comes stock. They look so amazingly real that it should be a no brainer.

Grossman56

[TiredIronGRB]

I'm sorry Tiredirongrb I thought that was a question. My bad. I have really enjoyed following your building and hope to gain the same skills that you and others have exhibited.

Thanks Dewey!

[Dewey H Lee]

I'm sorry Tiredirongrb I thought that was a question. My bad. I have really enjoyed following your building and hope to gain the same skills that you and others have exhibited.

[Pheonix]

I used 3" for the main and 2 1/4 for the nose without problems. I used the Dubro low bounce tires. I thought the FMS tires were just too hard for me as I do not have the struts to reduce the shock. I am still working on it and might make other changes since I will not be able to fly this weekend. It is raining now and forecast for the weekend also.

[TiredIronGRB]

No sir. I have not had any trouble with any parts that I have done this. I would only advise doing this on set screws in metal collars be it pot metal or any other metal. Only leave the heated Allen wrench as long as it takes to lossen the locktite. I've had a lot of guys flying helis to get set screws out for them. The method has worked quite well.

That's what I'm saying, your method (only heating the grub screw) is much better than heating the pot metal.

[Dewey H Lee]

No sir. I have not had any trouble with any parts that I have done this. I would only advise doing this on set screws in metal collars be it pot metal or any other metal. Only leave the heated Allen wrench as long as it takes to lossen the locktite. I've had a lot of guys flying helis to get set screws out for them. The method has worked quite well.

[TiredIronGRB]

I got the Robart 3" mains and 2.75" nose done today, I did have to trim a little. Be sure to test right side up as well, that's when I found they didn't clear.

[Aros]

Nice job CubCrazy...Man I have to catch up to you guys upgrading your struts to the P-51 struts...Really looks awesome.

[TiredIronGRB]

Coming from a job that had me removeing loctited screws a lot has helped me help some of my friends in my club. One of the methods I have used is to get a sacrificial Alan wrench the size of the screw and heat it cherry red and then slip it into the screw momentarily and then remove. Now you should be able to use a good one to remove it. The fit transfers the heat quicker to break down the locktite.

And doesn't weaken the pot metal around it.

By the way Sir. Beautiful Job on your build.

Thank you very much!

[Dewey H Lee]

By the way Sir. Beautiful Job on your build.

[Dewey H Lee]

Coming from a job that had me removeing loctited screws a lot has helped me help some of my friends in my club. One of the methods I have used is to get a sacrificial Alan wrench the size of the screw and heat it cherry red and then slip it into the screw momentarily and then remove. Now you should be able to use a good one to remove it. The fit transfers the heat quicker to break down the locktite.