Tired-Iron's P-38 Build

[Aros]

Wow, actual, honest to goodness nose art! That is amazing work!

Agreed! So cool!

[CubCrazy]

TH,
Did you settle on 3 inch mains, and 2.75 for the nose? My Robart 3 inch and 2.75 inch tires should be here today, and now I'm wondering if I should have gone with 2.75 on mains. ( I still can, just means I won't have a matching nosewheel till I make another order)

-CC

[TiredIronGRB]

Yes, I had the 3" FMS on the mains and they cleared...my 3" Robarts should be here any time and I'll post up pictures once I have them installed.

[CubCrazy]

I just installed one of the mains with the FW tire still on it. Already looks 1000% better. If the FW tires were a bit smaller, I would probably just run them. I'm super impressed with the FW Stang gear legs. Might be adapting them to some other projects.

[TiredIronGRB]

I just installed one of the mains with the FW tire still on it. Already looks 1000% better. If the FW tires were a bit smaller, I would probably just run them. I'm super impressed with the FW Stang gear legs. Might be adapting them to some other projects.

Cool, I'm glad to see others using these.

[stitch]

hey can someone answer me a question,in pic,s of these planes shows servo,s are glued in and no covers on them,but i just seen some pic,s in here that shows they are covered so which is it they have covers on servo,s or not??

[Lon]

hey can someone answer me a question,in pic,s of these planes shows servo,s are glued in and no covers on them,but i just seen some pic,s in here that shows they are covered so which is it they have covers on servo,s or not??

I have seen some posts of people covering and then painting over the servos. I myself found some good matching paint and just painted the exposed servos. You can see in the picture the matching paint almost makes them disappear.

[TiredIronGRB]

Clear Gorilla tape works great, just cut it with scissors to cover servos or any other void then paint to match.

[tdevince]

I'm super impressed with the FW Stang gear legs.

+1, I don't own any FW aircraft, just FMS in the foamies so I was not familiar with the difference. Like you, I was very impressed with the quality of the FW gear when I got them.

[CubCrazy]

What I am not impressed with, is manufacturers putting glue/loctite compound on little tiny grub screws. I will have to order another Gear supporting arm and axle because the grub screw for the axle stripped out immediately. I tried to drill it out, and I still may be able to salvage it to go fly in the AM, but I doubt it. Stock nose gear will probably remain till I get the MORE parts in.

Note to all manufacturers: STOP PUTTING LOCKING COMPOUNDS OF ANY KIND ON GRUB SCREWS!!

[ruffneckx1]

AMEN !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Woody

[CubCrazy]

My install is basically done. I fabricated a new axle for the nose gear, but I also ordered 2 more lower arms and axles. For the nose gear, all I did was cut the stock gear leg to length so I could install the new strut to it without changing anything about the steering linkage. My mains compress a lot just like everyone is saying. My nose does not compress at all. With the rake of the nose (I only added 1 washers worth of space on all retracts), the compression force is not properly aligned to cause it to move. It WILL compress, if you get it started a little. So, my intent is to put a small spacer in the track where the spring set screw goes, to stop it from extending all the way. I will put a spacer in the mains to keep them extended more as well. I' m not too worried about any lost travel. Its still better than no suspension, and looks totally awesome anyway.

-CC

[CubCrazy]

Well, I am seeing the obvious drawback of sliding the FW nose strut onto the OEM strut post the way I did. Impossible to run a 2.75 inch nose tire, and have the door close. Tire wouldnt even go in the wheel well. I shaved quite a bit of foam before I just gave up, and put one of the OEM mains on the nose. I made a skin for the nose gear door to tighten the gap I created after shaving so much foam. I will likely order a Robart to match on the nose, but for now, its done.

-CC

[TiredIronGRB]

Well, I am seeing the obvious drawback of sliding the FW nose strut onto the OEM strut post the way I did. Impossible to run a 2.75 inch nose tire, and have the door close. Tire wouldnt even go in the wheel well. I shaved quite a bit of foam before I just gave up, and put one of the OEM mains on the nose. I made a skin for the nose gear door to tighten the gap I created after shaving so much foam. I will likely order a Robart to match on the nose, but for now, its done.

-CC

That's why I had to do mine the way I did...I agree on the loctite, I had to heat mine to get them out.

[Dewey H Lee]

Coming from a job that had me removeing loctited screws a lot has helped me help some of my friends in my club. One of the methods I have used is to get a sacrificial Alan wrench the size of the screw and heat it cherry red and then slip it into the screw momentarily and then remove. Now you should be able to use a good one to remove it. The fit transfers the heat quicker to break down the locktite.

[Dewey H Lee]

By the way Sir. Beautiful Job on your build.

[TiredIronGRB]

Coming from a job that had me removeing loctited screws a lot has helped me help some of my friends in my club. One of the methods I have used is to get a sacrificial Alan wrench the size of the screw and heat it cherry red and then slip it into the screw momentarily and then remove. Now you should be able to use a good one to remove it. The fit transfers the heat quicker to break down the locktite.

And doesn't weaken the pot metal around it.

By the way Sir. Beautiful Job on your build.

Thank you very much!

[Aros]

Nice job CubCrazy...Man I have to catch up to you guys upgrading your struts to the P-51 struts...Really looks awesome.

[TiredIronGRB]

I got the Robart 3" mains and 2.75" nose done today, I did have to trim a little. Be sure to test right side up as well, that's when I found they didn't clear.

[Dewey H Lee]

No sir. I have not had any trouble with any parts that I have done this. I would only advise doing this on set screws in metal collars be it pot metal or any other metal. Only leave the heated Allen wrench as long as it takes to lossen the locktite. I've had a lot of guys flying helis to get set screws out for them. The method has worked quite well.