Tired-Iron's P-38 Build

[TiredIronGRB]

No sir. I have not had any trouble with any parts that I have done this. I would only advise doing this on set screws in metal collars be it pot metal or any other metal. Only leave the heated Allen wrench as long as it takes to lossen the locktite. I've had a lot of guys flying helis to get set screws out for them. The method has worked quite well.

That's what I'm saying, your method (only heating the grub screw) is much better than heating the pot metal.

[Pheonix]

I used 3" for the main and 2 1/4 for the nose without problems. I used the Dubro low bounce tires. I thought the FMS tires were just too hard for me as I do not have the struts to reduce the shock. I am still working on it and might make other changes since I will not be able to fly this weekend. It is raining now and forecast for the weekend also.

[Dewey H Lee]

I'm sorry Tiredirongrb I thought that was a question. My bad. I have really enjoyed following your building and hope to gain the same skills that you and others have exhibited.

[TiredIronGRB]

I'm sorry Tiredirongrb I thought that was a question. My bad. I have really enjoyed following your building and hope to gain the same skills that you and others have exhibited.

Thanks Dewey!

[Grossman56]

You know, the more I see the L/G with the P51 struts, the more I think that this should be the way V2 comes stock. They look so amazingly real that it should be a no brainer.

Grossman56

[Aros]

Agreed. These should definitely be heavily considered for V2. I know cost was a reason for the existing struts but man it's worth a price point increase having scale oleos on this bad girl.

[Grossman56]

Yes definitely, and with the Robart diamond tread tires, that's a complete winner.

[Aros]

I say FlightLineRC just clones Tired Iron's bird and be done with it. :D

[TiredIronGRB]

Lol...I think we better see if it flies first.

[Grossman56]

It's sure pretty, maybe he had best leave it on the ground for us to admire!
Seriously though, its pretty cool to see the modders jump on this one and create an even better looking bird, great job!!

Grossman56

[Trobinson99]

My install is basically done. I fabricated a new axle for the nose gear, but I also ordered 2 more lower arms and axles. For the nose gear, all I did was cut the stock gear leg to length so I could install the new strut to it without changing anything about the steering linkage. My mains compress a lot just like everyone is saying. My nose does not compress at all. With the rake of the nose (I only added 1 washers worth of space on all retracts), the compression force is not properly aligned to cause it to move. It WILL compress, if you get it started a little. So, my intent is to put a small spacer in the track where the spring set screw goes, to stop it from extending all the way. I will put a spacer in the mains to keep them extended more as well. I' m not too worried about any lost travel. Its still better than no suspension, and looks totally awesome anyway.

-CC

Hi CubCrazy, when you made the mod to the struts, I assume you left about 3/8" from the stock strut below the steering arm to install into the top of the oleo. With the mains compressing and the nose gear strut lengthened was there any concern on the change to the AoA. From what I can tell with my experimenting, the nose is going to raise about 1/2" with the extra length of the steering arm.

Am I worrying over nothing?

T

[Hink64]

What would the best method in removing the nose gear clip? Man that thing is shoe horned in there.

[TiredIronGRB]

What would the best method in removing the nose gear clip? Man that thing is shoe horned in there.

You will need to disassemble the retract.

[Hink64]

TI - is that what you did or just cut the original shaft and use it to connect to the FW struts?

[PlaneCrazy]

I used about an inch of the stock strut with the C-clip and the new strut mounts on it.

I am in the process of doing the nose wheel after successfully doing the mains. Do you have a 0.250" increase in length in the nose strut. With the FW strut up against the trunion, there is about a 1/4 increase from the trunion to the center of the axle. Still trying to figure this out as I am still a little confused about the steering as well.

Thanks
Andy

[TiredIronGRB]

Go back and look at the pictures, I cut the stock strut without removing it from the retract. I didn't use the steering trunion I made one in the FW strut which is all the way up against the retract.

[PlaneCrazy]

Go back and look at the pictures, I cut the stock strut without removing it from the retract. I didn't use the steering trunion I made one in the FW strut which is all the way up against the retract.

I see that but if the FW strut is all the way up against the retract it is still 1/4" longer.

[TiredIronGRB]

I also cut about .5" off the spring and pinned the inner strut to prevent down travel.

[Trobinson99]

I am in the process of doing the nose wheel after successfully doing the mains. Do you have a 0.250" increase in length in the nose strut. With the FW strut up against the trunion, there is about a 1/4 increase from the trunion to the center of the axle. Still trying to figure this out as I am still a little confused about the steering as well. Thanks Andy

Andy, see how mine turned out...yes you get 1/4 to 1/2" rise in the nose. I finished upgrading the struts and adding oleo suspension. I am not sure I am happy with the nose gear. It has raised the nose at least 1/2". I am concerned about the impact to the AoA. Not sure if I should retap the shock and lower it or just go and fly and see how it handles on take off and landing.

[PlaneCrazy]

Andy, see how mine turned out...yes you get 1/4 to 1/2" rise in the nose. I finished upgrading the struts and adding oleo suspension. I am not sure I am happy with the nose gear. It has raised the nose at least 1/2". I am concerned about the impact to the AoA. Not sure if I should retap the shock and lower it or just go and fly and see how it handles on take off and landing.

Tr, I have a spare strut that I can work with......I'm one who bought two rights and then learned I needed two lefts. I have a friend that has a dream shop set up to do just models.........of all kinds from giant scale warbirds to small foamies. He has lathes, milling machines, saws......you get the picture. Anyway we are talking about milling out the end of the FW strut so it will accept the stock steering arm..in otherwords, bury the round piece and arm in the end of the stock FW P51 strut. Then I would JB weld the whole thing and then to get the proper length, I'll do as Tired Iron suggested and clip the spring..........or buy a shorter one and pin the inner tube to limit downward movement. Drilling out the strut will still leave approx. 0.050" walls which should be plenty for strength. Film at 11.... :huh: