Official FlightLine RC 1600mm F7F-3 Tigercat Thread

[OV10]

Can't count me as everyone :P. Used a 2.5mm ID washer under that hub screw head so it wouldn't pull through plastic.
I always use an appropriated sized washer under screw heads that attach spinners to the back plate.;)
Only problem I had on the Tiger and Lightning was that foam don't tolerate incineration at all :Scared:

[Mad Baron]

here is a pic of mine after assembly right before it rolled off the table

[rifleman_btx]

Man with everyone having issues with their props, im wondering if i just go too easy on my plane and not pushing them hard enough. :Straight-Face:

[Grossman56]

The all plastic design of the propeller hub on the F7F can easily fail. What happens is the mounting screw can push through the plastic retainer, resulting in nothing actually holding the prop assembly to the shaft.

The problem is caused by a gap between the plastic retainer and the prop shaft.

In my case it wasn't obvious what was happening because it didn't always happen. Some prop replacements would be fine, others wouldn't, or would only happen after several flights.

At first I thought some batch of the hubs had a manufacturing fault. It only takes a few mm of a gap for anyone to cause the retainer to fail when mounting the prop assembly instead I discovered the problem is the screws used to mount the props to the hub are too long.

Depending on how tightly you screw the propeller blades on to the hub can leave a portion of the screw coming out the back of the hub. The fact the fault was intermittent is because not every assembly had screw tips coming out the back of the hub. No screw tip, the hub assembly sits properly on the shaft and the palstic retainer is supported. If any of the screw tips extend out the back of the hub, the assembly could fail when you tighten it on the shaft.

The fix is to file or grind off the extending screw tips flush to the hub or use slightly shorter screws to hold the prop blades on to the hub.

Ultimately, a redesign of the assembly to something like the one used on the B24 would be best. In the meantime, check your hubs. If you have protruding screws, you probably have weakened or damaged the retainer. I'd recommend replacing the hubs with new ones to be safe. This is too awesome a plane to lose because a prop came off in flight.

I had the same thing with brand new hubs, resulting in the prop not sitting flush with the shaft, so, I knocked off the protruding tips and they work fine, but its a good idea to check the hub screw as well, I also had one tighten and fail, on the ground thankfully, so I have a few that ride in the spare parts box.

Grossman56

[Dual Prop Dave]

I have a FL Tigercat a few months old and the graphic numbers and letters are lifting up and in one case on tail, one letter came right off when I checked it. Has anyone else had a problems? I have ordered a new set, is there a sealant that could be brushed on over it, after it is applied?
Thanks Rick

I'm having the same problem with my Tigercat and P-38 decals also.
I followed the advice of George over at TiredIron Aviation, and lightly brushed a small amount of the supplied glue that comes with these foamies on the loose parts and reapplied them and they stayed perfectly in place.

Hope this helps.

Dave

[MesRcPilot]

Respected Gilatrout , all this mentioned is present with all the similar products around the world and it is good that you have written it and warned. I want and need disassemble, control, and reassemble the whole mode l(In mine case Spit 1600). Thanks a lot, this is very useful for me ;)
Note:I have to admit that FL have the smallest number of construction and other defects on their products.

[Gilatrout]

The all plastic design of the propeller hub on the F7F can easily fail. What happens is the mounting screw can push through the plastic retainer, resulting in nothing actually holding the prop assembly to the shaft.

The problem is caused by a gap between the plastic retainer and the prop shaft.

In my case it wasn't obvious what was happening because it didn't always happen. Some prop replacements would be fine, others wouldn't, or would only happen after several flights.

At first I thought some batch of the hubs had a manufacturing fault. It only takes a few mm of a gap for anyone to cause the retainer to fail when mounting the prop assembly instead I discovered the problem is the screws used to mount the props to the hub are too long.

Depending on how tightly you screw the propeller blades on to the hub can leave a portion of the screw coming out the back of the hub. The fact the fault was intermittent is because not every assembly had screw tips coming out the back of the hub. No screw tip, the hub assembly sits properly on the shaft and the palstic retainer is supported. If any of the screw tips extend out the back of the hub, the assembly could fail when you tighten it on the shaft.

The fix is to file or grind off the extending screw tips flush to the hub or use slightly shorter screws to hold the prop blades on to the hub.

Ultimately, a redesign of the assembly to something like the one used on the B24 would be best. In the meantime, check your hubs. If you have protruding screws, you probably have weakened or damaged the retainer. I'd recommend replacing the hubs with new ones to be safe. This is too awesome a plane to lose because a prop came off in flight.

[Ole-Timer]

Some of the stickers don’t stick very well even on a clean surface. I use a monokote iron on low to help activate the glue, it works well.

[rifleman_btx]

Never had a problem with mine, but i did with one of the P38s. Lost one sticker off the tail. No issues since though.

[RMatteson]

I have a FL Tigercat a few months old and the graphic numbers and letters are lifting up and in one case on tail, one letter came right off when I checked it. Has anyone else had a problems? I have ordered a new set, is there a sealant that could be brushed on over it, after it is applied?
Thanks Rick

[themudduck]

I'm using Admiral 3600's, they're worked out great. I don't remember what my timer is set for. They are both set back (not pushed all the way forward)

[rifleman_btx]

Im using 4000mah nanotech 25c packs. Run them for 7 minutes and still come in with around 3.9v per cell. It did require moving the straps back. But otherwise, a nonissue and great performance.

[Mad Baron]

What size 4s batteries is everyone using the MRC site suggests 3000. Started the build this evening!

[TiredIronGRB]

I finally got a round to putting the FMS motors, props, front strut and wheels on the Flightline Tigercat and converting it to 6S...I’m betting this girl will be fast.

[Mad Baron]

My Wife and grandkids were at home when it arrived I even saw the UPS truck going down the highway on my way home. It is sad that some porch pirates steal what someone payed for with their hard earned paycheck. Glad you was able to get home and secure your plane that you ordered.

[Wildcard]

Lol I know how you feel....a plane I ordered last week arrived when i was at work and I could see on my video doorbell the ups guy putting it on the doorstep. Needless to say I took an early lunch to run home and move it safely inside. It’s the feeing of being 5 years old on Christmas morning all over lol.

[Mad Baron]

Well the Tigercat has landed via UPS!!:)

[Mad Baron]

It should be here when I get home after work :). Thanks for the tips on setting up the plane. First thing is to test the electronics after opening the kit.

[Grossman56]

On Saturday my Tcat went to the Sparta Tn UPS what is sad about it is I am about 25 miles from Sparta. Still have to wait till Tuesday :pop

there is light at the end of the tunnel

One more day MB, just think, 24 hours from now, you'll be getting the first whiff of EDF foam from a brand new box!!:Cool::Cool::Cool:
Nothing better my friend.
A tip(s), looking from the top of the plane, the prop pitch is towards the wingtip, don't want to fly backwards. watch your elevator mix, mine didn't need anything in mid flap and just a bit in full, play around with it and see where you like it. The gear has a delay before deploying, is about 4 seconds, let it deploy before dropping flaps, mine will porpoise a bit if I don't let the gear deploy first. Unless taking off into a breeze, half flaps is the way to go, at least here at 5,000 feet. Same is true for landing, if going into a breeze, half flaps will do, or full with power is good as well, again depends on how you like to fly, I've landed with no flaps, half and full. See how you like it, it may be fine where you are, mine flew great out of the box at Nefi, but back here in the high plains, the hotter motors I changed to are the way to go, same ESC, same props, you need the motors, mounts and two ESC adaptors (FMS motors)

Grossman56

[rifleman_btx]

Yes indeed! You're gonna love it! I have the rest of the parts coming sometime next week to get an old plane in the air again. My little eflite P40