Just can't make up my mind.
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HK 1600mm DC-3 Build
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Originally posted by Kloverzero View PostWhile I am not a fan of HobbyKing, I do love the C-47. I have the old Royal kit, but it got a little banged up. I had thought of buying the Dynam kit, and replacing the fixed gear with the retracts from the Freewing Mosquito. It would be pretty close to correct, and I can do some minor modification to make them even closer to scale. I was going to get the white DC-3 version, and do my own paint job on it. I think I like the looks of this one better, so now I am on the fence again....decisions decisions...LOL
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Originally posted by Alpha.MotionRC View PostNice workshop, SfC Wade. I may have missed it, but what livery do you plan on depicting? I recommend Callie Graphics; she collaborated with Hobbyking on this plane's release and she has a variety of decals to choose from. A tip would be to apply a coat of clear Varathane over the decals to help lock them in. Other than that they look great.
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Hey there SfC Wade, I maxed out my throws on the maiden of my HK 1600mm C-47. Personally I preferred having all the throw I could get to maneuver the aircraft.Live Q&A every Tuesday and Friday at 9pm EST on my Twitch Livestream
Live chat with me and other RC Nuts on my Discord
Camp my Instagram @Alpha.Makes
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I'm with Alpha on this. Max out throws (100%) for high rates, 75% on mid and 50% on low if you have 3-position switches for these. You need max rate on rudder for ground turning, max rate for elevator for ground operations on rough ground. I fly in an unconventional way in that I like to do rolls and loops. You'll high rates for rolling. However, I suggest you start with mid rates and adjust to taste after your first flight. Don't forget lots of airspeed before cranking on the sticks, especially taking off - don't try to climb to steep, use lots of power until it's up. Use more power when banking in a turn.
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Originally posted by SfC Wade View PostAlpha, I can understand that one but with me, I have a tendency to over correct.
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Originally posted by F106DeltaDart View PostLooking forward to your maiden flight Wade! Mine is still on the bench behind a few other projects right now. Planning on ordering the same power system as well depending on how you like it.
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Originally posted by xviper2 View PostI'm with Alpha on this. Max out throws (100%) for high rates, 75% on mid and 50% on low if you have 3-position switches for these. You need max rate on rudder for ground turning, max rate for elevator for ground operations on rough ground. I fly in an unconventional way in that I like to do rolls and loops. You'll high rates for rolling. However, I suggest you start with mid rates and adjust to taste after your first flight. Don't forget lots of airspeed before cranking on the sticks, especially taking off - don't try to climb to steep, use lots of power until it's up. Use more power when banking in a turn.
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Originally posted by SfC Wade View PostThe Build is comming along fine. I am starting on the paint job now. I am useing painters blue tape but afraid it may pull up the paint when I remove it. Any help/ sugestions would be appreacated.
This is the critcal point.
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Another thing to do is rub the tape along your pants a little bit before applying. It helps soften the amount of tackiness while still providing enough to stick. In the end, I always have matching paint and detail brushes on standby, knowing inevitably there will be some bleeds or peel ups that need attending to.My YouTube RC videos:
https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda
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Originally posted by xviper2 View PostRyan gave a really good hint on one of his "how to" videos as to how to avoid pulling up paint. Take a sharp razor blade or X-acto blade and lightly score along the edge of the tape. Don't go very deep, only about the thickness of the paint. This way, when you pull the tape, it won't lift the paint that it's next to.
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Originally posted by Aros.MotionRC View PostAnother thing to do is rub the tape along your pants a little bit before applying. It helps soften the amount of tackiness while still providing enough to stick. In the end, I always have matching paint and detail brushes on standby, knowing inevitably there will be some bleeds or peel ups that need attending to.
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