Official Dynam 1500mm B-26 Marauder Thread

[Mad Baron]

I had to go to a pickup. with camper shell and a trailer because sometimes I haul 2x 50cc models a 33cc P-51 and a Top Flight (.46 glow engines size) B-25 along with an assortment of Dynam foamies.

I bought a pickup truck and put a shell on it just for hauling my planes. Now I have too many (not a bad thing:)) I have got a 5x10 cargo trailer & GMC Yukon to haul my fleet. :Cool:

[rifleman_btx]

Before long you might need a CDL! Lol

[fhhuber]

I had to go to a pickup. with camper shell and a trailer because sometimes I haul 2x 50cc models a 33cc P-51 and a Top Flight (.46 glow engines size) B-25 along with an assortment of Dynam foamies.

[UK Arthur]

Thanks Rifleman, saved me the trouble of looking for your post about the replaced nose gear.

Fortunately fhhuber, the B26 goes into my car fully assembled. The car will be 20 years old in the Spring, and has just had welding done to get it through its annual test. Dunno what would replace it for me, modern cars are fatter outside but narrower inside.

[fhhuber]

Fore some aircraft, to simplify the wiring (and because of very long wires) people have used multiple receivers, such as one in each engine nacelle of a B-25 doing the throttle, flap, aileron and retract for that wing and one in the fuselage for the tail surfaces, nose-wheel, bomb bay and other options.

It makes field assembly very easy for large models as all you connect is a power wire, not a bunch of servo leads.

[rifleman_btx]

I just used the retracts off of my dead flight line p38. The mains were direct drop in. But the nose gear, I had to take the mounting plate off the dynam nose gear, epoxy it to the top of the flight line/freewing, then carefully drill holes to use the dynam screws to reinforce the bond. Finally had to cut the original bottom mount tabs off. Everything now fits and works perfectly.

Here's what I did

[rifleman_btx]

I did a retract swap, but it was a pain and required alot of surgery and the y ends on the for the mains were glued in at the factory and I had to pretty much destroy and replace the cables for them. It's a big pain but can be done. I did leave a report in this thread on what I did.

[UK Arthur]

Hi TMD, I like your idea of a crystal for each Rx.
Shortening the bunch of cables would save a bit of weight. (And "every little helps") A one-way trip though.

My retracts don't work in the cold, of course. The nose retract is up-side down compared to the norm, is there an after-market replacement?
Also, during my build I tried to take one of the main legs from the unit (to fit oleos), but it didn't want to, despite rotating it back and forth. Is this typical with this model?

Arthur.

[themudduck]

Putting both main and satellite Rxs below the cockpit has them closer together than I would prefer, but I wanted to be able to see their L E D' s light up to know that both had locked to the tranny when the battery is connected, without removing the wing cover each time. Putting them into the wing was tempting, and would have allowed most control cables to be shortened, and a clearer battery space.
Decisions, decisions; so many decisions!

Maybe you could stick a plastic tube in the top cover, aligned with the receiver so you can see the red light... maybe it could even look like a beacon if you put some kind of crystal in the top to make it reflect?

[UK Arthur]

Putting both main and satellite Rxs below the cockpit has them closer together than I would prefer, but I wanted to be able to see their L E D' s light up to know that both had locked to the tranny when the battery is connected, without removing the wing cover each time. Putting them into the wing was tempting, and would have allowed most control cables to be shortened, and a clearer battery space.
Decisions, decisions; so many decisions!

[NoDirt!]

I went the same route when I saw the Baron's set up. I had to "countersink" the Velcro on the receiver otherwise the hatch would not close.

[Mad Baron]

I originally put the rx under the canopy but it was too crowded with all the wires plus it's easy to access if the need arises mounted on top of the wing

[themudduck]

This is how I tamed the rats nest of wires. In the first pic I used small wire ties to secure the wires and some clear scotch tape to hold the wires on each side of the fuse. The second pic is how I mounted the receiver and run the antenna wires thru some plastic tubes. The third pic is how I ran the wires to the receiver I cut out a small hole just above the wing to run the wires.

3rd pic... I like that idea, it gets the receiver away from potential sources of interference and blockage. And you have easy access with the top hatch. Very good!

CapeCoral - hope you feel better soon bud!

[capecoral]

Thansk gang good input and comfort level that i found the high points. I like to idea of separating the RX into the vacant top space. will advise on maiden down with flu crud

[rifleman_btx]

Both look good to me

[UK Arthur]

Cables

My battery cables kept separate from the rest, which are in a handy poly tube, all are kept clear of the battery space by the wood dowel which is lodged into the pockets of the fuselage molding.

[Mad Baron]

This is how I tamed the rats nest of wires. In the first pic I used small wire ties to secure the wires and some clear scotch tape to hold the wires on each side of the fuse. The second pic is how I mounted the receiver and run the antenna wires thru some plastic tubes. The third pic is how I ran the wires to the receiver I cut out a small hole just above the wing to run the wires.

[themudduck]

First what do you do with the Hugh bundle of wires. I am thinking of putting in a shelf wire on bottom batt on top???
read a ton of stuff and printed out severl sheets that sort of list the items
did elevate the stab 3mm
checked and found 3 loose linkages
to me wheels not an issue
relocated magnet in top hatch
worked all foam hinges
checked rudder throw not hitting elev
set throws to ones in IM elev not over 1/2"
removed wing and checked for snagged wires.
AT 60MM and 2 4c 2600 she is pretty nose heavy. so that my issues for today think i hit the critical ones from what i have
set expo to 40% high 30 MED 20 low all surfaces

You may need a little "Up" trim to start . By the way, use "some" flap for takeoff and full flaps for landing, every time. All the points you mentioned sound real good, you nailed it.

After a lot of flight testing, I found that 65mm was too far back, I ended up around 57-58mm (gear down). But as you can tell from the thread, there are several opinions about where the CG should be.

For the wires - I used small-size zip ties and compressed the rats-nest of wires into a neat & tidy bundle. I've never touched it since the first flight.

[capecoral]

First what do you do with the Hugh bundle of wires. I am thinking of putting in a shelf wire on bottom batt on top???
read a ton of stuff and printed out severl sheets that sort of list the items
did elevate the stab 3mm
checked and found 3 loose linkages
to me wheels not an issue
relocated magnet in top hatch
worked all foam hinges
checked rudder trow not hitting elev
set trows to ones in IM elev not over 1/2"
removed wing and checked for snagged wires.
AT 60MM and 2 4c 2600 she is pretty nose heavy. so that my issues for today think i hit the critical ones from what i have
set expo to 40% high 30 MED 20 low all surfaces

[rifleman_btx]

Yes! Please do this, don't have a maiden flight end up like mine and need almost a whole new airframe before you have a chance to enjoy the bird. Also cg to 65mm