Official Dynam 1500mm B-26 Marauder Thread

[rifleman_btx]

Would that be second to last?

[quitcherbitchen]

Jing Li on the RC Groups was bragging about their commitment quality

[themudduck]

So I got my Maruader today and overall I'm stoked to have a new plane. It did have some shipping rash but nothing too major. What erks the hell out of me are the sloppy glued on engine nacelles gapped seams and just misfitting. They dont even lay flush with the wing requiring sanding and gap fill. Even the magnets on the cockpit hatch and top wing cover are not flush causing gaps. Looks like I got a project plane needing some adjustments, cutting, gap fill, sanding and painting to do.

It's just said to spend good money and have issues like this

Check this thread earlier on, when we first received these models everyone posted about the fixes that were needed. Around post 385 for me. There are definitely several things you'll need to check. Flap hinges, wing mounting pads, magnet placement, loose guns, stab shim, tail weights, balance point, elevator control throw etc. Not to mention the racecar wheels and WWI pilots!! But once you've sorted out these issues it is a really nice-flying plane. I really enjoy mine a lot.

We are hoping that Dynam will fix some (or most) of these issues when they bring out the P61 (uses the same motors, props, and landing gear). Motion is working on that.

[Saltydawg]

So I got my Maruader today and overall I'm stoked to have a new plane. It did have some shipping rash but nothing too major. What erks the hell out of me are the sloppy glued on engine nacelles gapped seams and just misfitting. They dont even lay flush with the wing requiring sanding and gap fill. Even the magnets on the cockpit hatch and top wing cover are not flush causing gaps. Looks like I got a project plane needing some adjustments, cutting, gap fill, sanding and painting to do.

It's just said to spend good money and have issues like this

[quitcherbitchen]

I just think the Dynam boards are a bit of substandard engineering. Must have been a patent they had to work around --Though I heavily doubt it--in order to make them so wonky with the whole 8 second delay and temp sensitive.

[Mad Baron]

You might want to take a look at the retracts from the Durafly line at HobbyKing. They seem to be the same design but not the same control board. I took one of the retracts from an old Vampire and transplanted the mounting plate from the stock B26 nose retract and then the whole strut assembly over and it all worked. The holes for the mounting plate is the same. Unfortunately, the Vampire part is not in stock and you have to buy all 3 but if you're looking for a complete replacement, this might not be a bad way to go. You can also look at other Durafly plane parts and see if you can buy just a single retract.

See the similarities ............................................
Vampire ...............


B-26 ..................................

I will check these out as I am getting aggravated with the stock retracts. I just don't understand why the Dynam retracts are sensitive to cooler temps. I'm thinking that maybe the grease that is used on the gears in the retract is possibly too thick it might be stalling the gear train and maybe fouling the limit switch. I might open one of the retracts to see if that might be the problem. I just checked out these Durafly retracts and they are out of stock right now.

[NoDirt!]

Which Freewing? My nose gear only works every third try. Are they direct drop in?

Check back a page : https://www.hobbysquawk.com/forum/rc...227#post115227
Wag727 used E-flite 15-20's and it sounded like they fit without too much trouble. Probably not the cheapest way to go but if they're not a lot of fuss...
I've been hoping he would post how they worked out and maybe a photo of the nose gear.

[xviper]

You might want to take a look at the retracts from the Durafly line at HobbyKing. They seem to be the same design but not the same control board. I took one of the retracts from an old Vampire and transplanted the mounting plate from the stock B26 nose retract and then the whole strut assembly over and it all worked. The holes for the mounting plate is the same. Unfortunately, the Vampire part is not in stock and you have to buy all 3 but if you're looking for a complete replacement, this might not be a bad way to go. You can also look at other Durafly plane parts and see if you can buy just a single retract.

See the similarities ............................................
Vampire ...............


B-26 ..................................

[rifleman_btx]

To me that would be the next best option.

[quitcherbitchen]

OK then maybe do a board transplant from another retract. Seems the Dynam boards are the problem.

[rifleman_btx]

I posted the extreme surgery I needed to do to make it work in the thread.. it wasn't easy at all unfortunately. In fact it very much sucked as I had to redesign the entire retract body on the nose gear by using the original dynam mount plate.

[quitcherbitchen]

Which Freewing? My nose gear only works every third try. Are they direct drop in?

[rifleman_btx]

Yeah that's why mine now has freewing in it as well

[xviper]

Dynam retracts have always been intermittent. The cooler it gets, the more intermittent. Even in warm temps, they sometimes don't work. Once near freezing, they are more likely to not work at all. Since I replaced mine with retracts from old, dead planes (FMS, Freewing), they work all the time regardless of temperature outside. Yours has proven to be temperamental. I wouldn't trust them even in the summer months. I've done many belly landings because they stopped working when it came time to land.

[Mad Baron]

I know this might have been brought up already but here goes I took my B-26 to the flying field today but didn't fly it because the retracts were not cooperating. When I plugged in the battery and I waited for the gear to initialize just 2 would work and a several seconds later the 3rd gear initialized before it extended and when retracting it had the same issue. After several cycles of the gear they worked ok but I was worried that the gear would not work in flight. It was in the mid 60s today so I don't think the temperature was to blame. I really don't want to modify another brand of gear into my plane but it might come to that. Any thoughts?

[rifleman_btx]

I'm gonna definitely check into those as possible issues and have checked for a loose servo already. Thanks guys!

[Bearcat]

I am using a 3600, with no tail weights, and I have a 1-inch chunk of foam behind the battery to keep it from slipping backwards.

I am using the 55-60 point and I find that it flies very well-balanced there (as determined by flight testing for balance).

You can use a bigger battery, and use the tail weights, but you guys are flying a heavier plane at the same balance point. That provides advantages and disadvantages, and consequences.
Heavier planes need more power and penetrate the wind better (higher wing loading). But they crash harder as well.
Personally I've always felt that lighter is better. That's my mantra. Ommmmmmmmmmmmmm

I agree- I took out both flew her this way using a 4000 and 3600 Admiral batteries..I do like the 3600 for the speed but wind does affect her some, the 4000 size is no issue at all.

[quitcherbitchen]

Maybe a loose servo in the pocket

[fhhuber]

Sudden trim change definitely means something broke.

[xviper]

I had to add full trim from out of nowhere with mine today, I don't know if I have a warped wing or what but I did max the aileron trim on her today. Other than that she did fly well once she was trimmed. Looped and rolled just fine.

That's a bit alarming. Check to see if one or both aileron hinges are separating. I had a similar occurrence with my Canadair water bomber last time out. On the second flight, I had to use almost all of my UP elevator. Upon inspection, I noticed that the elevator hinges was pulling out of the control surface. This plane has a left and right elevator that are connected by a wire that holds both sides in sync and only one side has the horn that is connected to the servo. With one side being so sloppy, it needed a lot of UP to average out the other droopy side.