E-flite Carbon-Z T-28 BNF Basic 1981mm (78") Wingspan

[paladin]

shore up the flap hinge.
replace control linkages with at least 4-40 (what I have 150~flights on)
put a appropriately sized steering servo in.(mine is locked down, I use up E and throttle to turn)

Joe

[PaulZ]

Hello T-28 fans! I just placed an order for this big boy, fyi Horizon Hobby has a limited amount right now!
This will be my "ARF" project for this year, planning to do the following:
1) Upgrade the power system, 3-blade prop and maybe 8s or 12s setup
2) Upgrade retracts (don't want holes burned in the wings) and landing gear with suspension struts
3) Add gear doors to nose gear
4) Full scale lighting system with nav, landing and strobe lights

Any tips and suggestions welcome!

[paladin]

Has anyone had problem with the wing retract mount breaking. I was taxing on the runway and when I took off the right wing retract got hung up. Once on the ground I noticed the plate was broken and it allowed the retract to shift hitting the wing. I cannot find the plate I have to reorder a whole new right wing. I'm looking to expoy the mount or try to reinforce it with some wood. Any thoughts I'd appreciate.

at the end of last year I had to cycle the lg several times to get them both to come down. turned out that it was the right wing retract mount (plastic) was no longer glued in and the mount would hang by the two screws mounting it to the top of the wing and the retract hitting the wheel well while I flew. once I knew what the problem was I took those two screws out and the plastic part came right out. the next question was what to glue?

the purpose for the long strap forward of the retract pocket was an attempt to allow the plastic to move without exceeding its plastic limit. so I recognized that gluing that in would not be good, then the question became where to put the glue? mine had damage on the aft part of the mount, it had cracked right at the edges of the aft ear. I recognize this as a high stress area once the retract gets slammed into the socket on every landing. I was able to push it back into place, I did not glue it together because it happened because the foam under it was giving and putting a higher stress on the area not supported by the lg ear and I recognized I needed to support it from the foam side so I let that glue rejoin it.

I put 15 minute epoxy in the aft lg well, on the aft lg ledge and on the wing surface and pushed the mount in place with tape over the screw holes where I epoxied. then put the two screws in to mount it to the front anchor to the top of the wing. once the glue in my mixing cup started to get hard I put the retract in and screwed it in (mistake!). once dry everything worked great.

next trip to the flying field I got 2 flights then the retract would not come down. after bellying it in I took the gear out and manually moved the follower so I could still fly w/o retracts. in doing so the small told me the motor had burned up. when removing the aft lg mounting screws they were epoxied in so a little soldering iron on the screws and they came out. the new retract went right in w/o a problem and has ~10 flights on it w/o a problem.

since then I have been debating buying a wing set, just because I cant expect this to be available in the future. I hope this answers your question, if not let me know if I can help

Joe

[xviper]

Has anyone had problem with the wing retract mount breaking. I was taxing on the runway and when I took off the right wing retract got hung up. Once on the ground I noticed the plate was broken and it allowed the retract to shift hitting the wing. I cannot find the plate I have to reorder a whole new right wing. I'm looking to expoy the mount or try to reinforce it with some wood. Any thoughts I'd appreciate.

Those retracts seem to have to take a lot of abuse, especially if you operate from grass. There’s a lot of vibration as the plane rolls along the ground. My plate cracked in several places as well as the little plastic thing that attaches one end of the wire that holds the door. All repairs were improvised as parts are either non-existent or very costly. For the cracks in the plate, I squeezed glue (sometimes FoamTac, sometimes epoxy, depending on the location of the crack) in and under the crack and applied clear Gorilla tape over the crack and surrounding area for reinforcement. After several repairs, the retracts are quite sturdy now but I must admit that I grease the landings pretty much every time now, removing the cause of much of the damage that occurred when the plane was new.

[dweb4]

Has anyone had problem with the wing retract mount breaking. I was taxing on the runway and when I took off the right wing retract got hung up. Once on the ground I noticed the plate was broken and it allowed the retract to shift hitting the wing. I cannot find the plate I have to reorder a whole new right wing. I'm looking to expoy the mount or try to reinforce it with some wood. Any thoughts I'd appreciate.

[MANFRED]

Exactly Alpha, PActra green tint, masked and sprayed, my first attempt at tinting. I redid the cockpits on both the mask the dreaded gathering. Why is it manufacturers cannot pull a plastic mold of all interiors to avoid this unsightly blew. Surely all of us would pay a bit more for this feature. Thanks!!!

[Alpha]

MANFRED Superb refinishes by both of you! How did you tint the canopy? Masked and painted with Tamiya Clear Green? Or is that trans cellophane? The edges look too sharp to be a Rit-Dye job.

[MANFRED]

Well after much work my T-28 has a new look. The grey yellow red China Lake scheme looks great in the air. My Friend J Price redid his in a Viet era camp and it looks awesome in the air. Both have a redone cockpit and sound cards. We are flying with a 3 blade 16x8 Master and it hauls butt around the field.

[Twowingtj]

OV10 It's the stock A-10 oleo that I have as well. Reduced spring tension for the lighter model.

[OV10]

The pins should be solid, the A-10 strut is drilled 12-13mm deep for the pin.

OV10 Have you changed struts on yours yet? Getting ready to paint both of our T-28s and considering doing the struts at the same time.

I'm looking for a set of Razorback main oleo's and I still have the wrecked A-10 original nose oleo(not the upgrade trailing link one you guys are pondering on) to use.
That's my plan for change as soon as I get the mains and this stupid weather settles to let me get the bird out of the rollin hanger.

[Mikdys]

The pins should be solid, the A-10 strut is drilled 12-13mm deep for the pin.

OV10 Have you changed struts on yours yet? Getting ready to paint both of our T-28s and considering doing the struts at the same time.

Thanks - I understand now (the pin needs to extend 12-13mm beyond the steering arm)

[Twowingtj]

Thanks - not sure what you mean by "drilled to about 12-13mm" though, should the pin not be solid?

The pins should be solid, the A-10 strut is drilled 12-13mm deep for the pin.

OV10 Have you changed struts on yours yet? Getting ready to paint both of our T-28s and considering doing the struts at the same time.

[Mikdys]

Mikdys Looks like 5mm and 48-50mm from the bottom of the pin head or C-clip. The strut is drilled to about 12-13mm.

Thanks - not sure what you mean by "drilled to about 12-13mm" though, should the pin not be solid?

[OV10]

Mikdys I was actually looking at the same thing yesterday after I ran across the stock A-10 nose strut in my spare parts stash. The pin will need to be longer than the stock A-10 pin, in order to use the stock T-28 steering arm. Other than that, it should work.

I haven't found anything that might work to replace the mains with yet.

Twowingtj
TJ.........TI said way back on post #22 that the FMS 1500 P-47 struts work.

[Twowingtj]

Mikdys Looks like 5mm and 48-50mm from the bottom of the pin head or C-clip. The strut is drilled to about 12-13mm.

[Mikdys]

Mikdys I was actually looking at the same thing yesterday after I ran across the stock A-10 nose strut in my spare parts stash. The pin will need to be longer than the stock A-10 pin, in order to use the stock T-28 steering arm. Other than that, it should work.

I haven't found anything that might work to replace the mains with yet.

Thanks for the advice, I'll save a couple of dollars and make the pin instead. Have you any idea of the dimensions needed? I'm guessing it will need to be 5mm diameter and 60mm long maybe.

[Twowingtj]

Mikdys I was actually looking at the same thing yesterday after I ran across the stock A-10 nose strut in my spare parts stash. The pin will need to be longer than the stock A-10 pin, in order to use the stock T-28 steering arm. Other than that, it should work.

I haven't found anything that might work to replace the mains with yet.

[Mikdys]

I've measured the original gear now and this Freewing A10 replacement should fit perfectly. It will need a connecting pin and they sell these separately:

https://www.motionrc.eu/products/fre...ing-pin#qa-tab

I'm also going to fit a 14 x 9 Master Airscrew 3 Blade Propeller to make it look more scale.

I'll confirm once it's all fitted up and working...

[Mikdys]

Re front strut I've been looking at this:

https://www.motionrc.eu/collections/...-tire-b#qa-tab

According to Q&A dimensions are:

length from top of strut to end of tire 183mm (extended)
length from top of strut to end of tire about 160mm (compressed)
Tire size 70mm

I've no idea if this will fit, yet, so when I get a minute spare I'm going to take my front retract out and measure its dimensions and check to see if the replacement strut will bolt onto the same fitting. More another day...

[Cobra1365]

Nice plane. Why does the pilot look scared to death? 😉