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Discussion: Heng Long's 1/16 scale M1A2 Abrams RTR, Upgrade Edition!
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Tankme Welcome to Hobby Squawk, Tankme! Which version of tank do you have, and where did you purchase it? For all of my TK6-equipped tanks, I press the start button briefly. It doesn't need to be pressed and held.
Do you have multiple tanks?
Also, depending on the version of MFCB inside the tank, you should also be able to "rebind" the radio to the tank.
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Help I cannot get my new tank started. Battery charged all.light flashing press and hold the lock button to start and nothing.
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Track doesnt look properley tensioned mine has metal tracks did the same so when i did upgrade of motors re tightend them and locked tighted screws in important places. Hope this helps.
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Thank you! I just adjusted the idler wheel position a notch forward and the problem disappeared.Originally posted by Rubicon99 View Post
First make sure the screw holding the sprocket on is tight. They do at times loosen and cause the sprocket to spread or wobble.
If that is not it, then you might be seeing what is called “track stretch” and happened when the tracks start to wear in. It will continue over the life of the tracks. In this case you would simply adjust the idler wheel one notch forward. Based on your photo I doubt that this is your issue. I would need to see the main body of the track section that contacts the ground while the tank is suspended off the ground. The amount of slack in the track “hang down” would be helpful to see to properly judge you track tension.
Also you IMO you would be best served to remove the inside retaining ring (one closet to hull) on the sprocket as this will keep debris from getting clogged between the rings and causing the “riding up” effect similar to that seen in your photo.
Hope this helps with some starting points.
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First make sure the screw holding the sprocket on is tight. They do at times loosen and cause the sprocket to spread or wobble.Originally posted by Draig73 View PostSend help, my left track keeps doing this. It didn’t do this when I first got it. The other track is working perfectly but this one just suddenly started to do this. Do I just adjust the tension of the track?
If that is not it, then you might be seeing what is called “track stretch” and happened when the tracks start to wear in. It will continue over the life of the tracks. In this case you would simply adjust the idler wheel one notch forward. Based on your photo I doubt that this is your issue. I would need to see the main body of the track section that contacts the ground while the tank is suspended off the ground. The amount of slack in the track “hang down” would be helpful to see to properly judge you track tension.
Also you IMO you would be best served to remove the inside retaining ring (one closet to hull) on the sprocket as this will keep debris from getting clogged between the rings and causing the “riding up” effect similar to that seen in your photo.
Hope this helps with some starting points.
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Send help, my left track keeps doing this. It didn’t do this when I first got it. The other track is working perfectly but this one just suddenly started to do this. Do I just adjust the tension of the track?
1 Photo
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Understood. Much obliged.Originally posted by Rubicon99 View Post
Yes and no. 20 feet is a really short distance so I am assuming you are outside in direct sunlight or bright overcast.
Were the IR receiver is located also has a lot to do with it. The Abrams for example is placed to the rear of the turret and blocked by hatches, optics and guns. They are providing hard to hit in this area. Also we have found that the IR receivers have to be shot at the base not at the dome. So aiming low usually produces the best results. Moving the IR receivers to the forward half of the turret greatly improves overall reliability in taking hits.
Fortunately adding a small magnet inside the turrets forward section is relatively easy and will work as a new IR attachment point just like the stock one.
There are some more nuances but they should be discussed in another already existing thread “IR Battle System” so we keep this thread on topic.
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Yes and no. 20 feet is a really short distance so I am assuming you are outside in direct sunlight or bright overcast.Originally posted by JDMac761stBP View Post
Yes. It has the adjustable tank recoil function. My Sherman and King Tiger have the same function. On a side note. During IR battles, the King Tiger can hit from a longer distance than the other two tanks. Twenty to twenty-five feet consistently. Shouldn't all the tanks register hits from the same distance?
Were the IR receiver is located also has a lot to do with it. The Abrams for example is placed to the rear of the turret and blocked by hatches, optics and guns. They are providing hard to hit in this area. Also we have found that the IR receivers have to be shot at the base not at the dome. So aiming low usually produces the best results. Moving the IR receivers to the forward half of the turret greatly improves overall reliability in taking hits.
Fortunately adding a small magnet inside the turrets forward section is relatively easy and will work as a new IR attachment point just like the stock one.
There are some more nuances but they should be discussed in another already existing thread “IR Battle System” so we keep this thread on topic.
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Yes. It has the adjustable tank recoil function. My Sherman and King Tiger have the same function. On a side note. During IR battles, the King Tiger can hit from a longer distance than the other two tanks. Twenty to twenty-five feet consistently. Shouldn't all the tanks register hits from the same distance?Originally posted by Alpha;n227419
Just to clarify, you received an Abrams from that seller with the latest hull, but would you also please confirm if you have the latest version of TK? The easiest way to tell is to confirm that you have adjustable track recoil. Tap the K button and S button
at the same time, and see if the track recoil changes. You should have four levels of track recoil.
Whoever that CS guy was, he was
obviously guessing when he said that the TK6 doesn't require an on/off switch. It does. He probably just didn't know where the switch
was located. Glad Rubicon99 got you sorted out!
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Thank you very much this was very helpful! Happy Tanking!Originally posted by Rubicon99 View Post
The motors can be found on EBay just search Heng Long 390 motors. They should cost about $25 delivered for two. I am hoping Motion RC chooses to stock these as upgrades as time goes on.
In modern tanks like the Abrams, 3:1 gearboxes are the way to go for top end scale speed. With Heng Long’s new 6.0(6.1)systems and 390 motors you don’t need a 4:1 gearbox. The system has excellent low speed control which is even better then that of the industry leading Tamiya Abrams and which becomes even smoother with the 390 motors.
Now you can buy upgrade 3:1 gearboxes that have thicker support walls and are all bearing shafts. Taigen and HengLong both make these. Heng Long is currently the only one though that has the upgraded 3:1 gearboxes that have a factory option to come with 390 motors already installed. Also the Taigen drive shafts need to be filed down as the are .25mm to wide in diameter. Not hard but a PITA if one was not expecting it.
For the Abrams you need to be looking at the High Low gearboxes in 58(or59)mm shafts (long shafts).
All that said the new stock steal gearboxes are pretty darn durable. I have three sets of these in three different 6.0 tanks and I do not baby my tanks. If you have Instagram visit me @fsttanks to see some of my photos and videos.
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The motors can be found on EBay just search Heng Long 390 motors. They should cost about $25 delivered for two. I am hoping Motion RC chooses to stock these as upgrades as time goes on.Originally posted by Draig73 View Post
Thank you! Now my problem is where would I be able to buy those, would the ones from Taigen work? and would it be a 3:1 or a 4:1 gear box. Im sorry for all the questions hahaha I'm a new guy when it comes into these things
The axle bearings are a little harder to find. I have bought mine through Aliexpress.com in the Tankzone store. Aliexpress in like a Chinese Amazon. They are safe to buy from. Again I hope the bearings become something Motion RC will be stocking or better yet included with there tanks.
In modern tanks like the Abrams, 3:1 gearboxes are the way to go for top end scale speed. With Heng Long’s new 6.0(6.1)systems and 390 motors you don’t need a 4:1 gearbox. The system has excellent low speed control which is even better then that of the industry leading Tamiya Abrams and which becomes even smoother with the 390 motors.
Now you can buy upgrade 3:1 gearboxes that have thicker support walls and are all bearing shafts. Taigen and HengLong both make these. Heng Long is currently the only one though that has the upgraded 3:1 gearboxes that have a factory option to come with 390 motors already installed. Also the Taigen drive shafts need to be filed down as the are ~.25mm too wide in diameter. Not hard but a PITA if one was not expecting it.
For the Abrams you need to be looking at the High Low gearboxes in 58(or59)mm shafts (long shafts).
All that said the new stock steal gearboxes are pretty darn durable. I have three sets of these in three different 6.0 tanks and I do not baby my tanks. If you have Instagram visit me @fsttanks to see some of my photos and videos.
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D7, Welcome to Hobby Squawk. Glad you are here. Best, LBOriginally posted by Draig73 View Post
Thank you! Now my problem is where would I be able to buy those, would the ones from Taigen work? and would it be a 3:1 or a 4:1 gear box. Im sorry for all the questions hahaha I'm a new guy when it comes into these things
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Thank you! Now my problem is where would I be able to buy those, would the ones from Taigen work? and would it be a 3:1 or a 4:1 gear box. Im sorry for all the questions hahaha I'm a new guy when it comes into these thingsOriginally posted by Rubicon99 View Post
The best overall upgrade you can make is to swap in the RED Heng Long 390 motors. These will provide for more scale like top end speed and will enhance low speed turning torque in rough or soft terrain surfaces.
Also look at adding the rear drive shaft axle bearing. This in combination with the new adjustable idler wheels (that tension the tracks) will greatly add support to the shafts and reduces sprocket play. Sprocket play(wobble) is one of the leading causes of track lose on the Abrams.
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The best overall upgrade you can make is to swap in the RED Heng Long 390 motors. These will provide for more scale like top end speed and will enhance low speed turning torque in rough or soft terrain surfaces.Originally posted by Draig73 View PostHey Alpha I just bought an upgraded Abrams what must have upgrades do you recommend? It comes with metal gear and tracks already.
Also look at adding the rear drive shaft axle bearing. This in combination with the new adjustable idler wheels (that tension the tracks) will greatly add support to the shafts and reduces sprocket play. Sprocket play(wobble) is one of the leading causes of track lose on the Abrams.
There is a lot more that can be done, but it becomes more of tuning little things here and there to adjust for your style of driving and use needs.
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Hey Alpha I just bought an upgraded Abrams what must have upgrades do you recommend? It comes with metal gear and tracks already.
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Just to clarify, you received an Abrams from that seller with the latest hull, but would you also please confirm if you have the latest version of TK? The easiest way to tell is to confirm that you have adjustable track recoil. Tap the K button and S button at the same time, and see if the track recoil changes. You should have four levels of track recoil.
Whoever that CS guy was, he was obviously guessing when he said that the TK6 doesn't require an on/off switch. It does. He probably just didn't know where the switch was located. Glad Rubicon99 got you sorted out!
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That's the thing. Empty ON/OFF slot. Okay. Checked under the vent. You are correct, sir. Problem solved. Thank you.Originally posted by Rubicon99 View Post
The 6.0 due require an
on off switch. Are you saying there was NO slot at all on the bottom of the tank? If
so there is chance you got one of the newest Abrams upper hulls meant for the metal lower hull version with 6.1 system that has an
on off switch located under one of the side engine vents? I suspect the basic 6.0 manual would not have shown this.
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The 6.0 due require an on off switch. Are you saying there was NO slot at all on the bottom of the tank? If so there is chance you got one of the newest Abrams upper hulls meant for the metal lower hull version with 6.1 system that has an on off switch located under one of the side engine vents? I suspect the basic 6.0 manual would not have shown this.Originally posted by JDMac761stBP View Post
They sold me a lemon. No ON/OFF switch on the bottom of the tank. How do you start it without one? You can't. The CS guy told me the TK6 version doesn't require ON/OFF switch. Do you anything about these guys. https://rcworldstore.com/ ?
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They sold me a lemon. No ON/OFF switch on the bottom of the tank. How do you start it without one? You can't. The CS guy told me the TK6 version doesn't require ON/OFF switch. Do you anything about these guys. https://rcworldstore.com/ ?Originally posted by Alpha View PostJDMac761stBP Another member here bought an Abrams for around $250 from a local hobby store reasoning it was the TK6, as I presumed it was too based on the price. However I believe he ended up returning it after discovering that it was in fact an obsolete 5.3 version. Accordingly, unfortunately everyone should be wary of what they're buying, and double-check before purchasing from a local store or even Amazon. Heng Long told me directly to my face that their own Amazon store is mostly being used to sell off the TK5.3, since they're fine in that configuration for most budget-minded drivers. But for actual RC Hobby tankers, the TK6 is truly leaps and bounds ahead of the earlier TK5 series. In summary, if shopping online or at a store this season for Heng Long tanks, keep in mind that just because it's expensive doesn't mean it's the latest TK6 version, so please ask the seller to clarify first! I'd hate to see anyone overpay for something they didn't want.
To be clear, all of Motion RC's tanks use the latest TK6. We are not bringing in anything with the older electronics.
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