Customization Log: Heng Long 1/16 M1A2 Abrams "Pro Plus"

[Alpha]

Heng Long sells its 1/16 scale RC tanks in four primary editions: Original, Upgrade, Upgrade A, and Professional. The higher the edition, the higher the metal parts content, features, and cost.

The "Pro Plus" is a *possible* fifth tier, envisioned as a very limited production edition above the Professional edition, that I've been working on with Heng Long this year. Essentially, it takes an Abrams Professional Edition (metal road wheels, idler wheel, sprocket, and tracks), and adds the following upgrades:

1) Full metal lower hull, separable from upper hull via CNC clamps (no screws required)
2) CNC Adjustable idlers
3) CNC Fully Enclosed gearboxes with steel gears, bearings, and 390 motors with a fast gear ratio befitting a modern MBT
4) Genuine torsion bar suspension
5) 2s 7000mAh battery with onboard charging via functional hatch on the rear engine deck (3s capable)
6) 360 degree turret traverse
7) Dual smoker units, both upgraded to CNC heaters (Each about 5s the volume produced by the stock smoker unit)
8) Dual speaker (one bass, one tweeter) in resonance chamber enclosure
9) Servo driven barrel recoil
10) LED barrel flash
11) Barrel smoke (via dedicated smoker inside the turret
12) Prototype TK6.1S 160 amp MFCB
13) Retains the use of IR Battle functions
14) Taillight and turn signal upgrades
15) Provision for a function APU to power additional beacons or FPV in the turret (3DPUP CITV)


The point of this thread is to document the personal customizations I do over time to this test platform. I also hope to garner feedback and suggestions from other tankers regarding this potential "Pro Plus" series. Are these features that there is a market for, even at this high price point? Which other models would tankers want to see receive the "Pro Plus" treatment, with barrel flash/smoke/recoil, torsion bar suspension, and onboard charging?

Heng Long and Motion RC are willing to meet customer preferences for more elite editions up market, if and when such a demand materializes.

For now, enjoy the journey.

[Alpha]

The CNC hull, torsion bar suspension, CNC adjustable idlers, and CNC motors comprise the practical driving performance advantages of the Pro Plus. They create the power, transfer it to the running gear, and ensure the vehicle is rigid while its suspension remains supple. It also makes the darn thing heavy. My all up weight is 20lbs!

A Quick Detach (QD) upper hull is ideal for quickly accessing the interior. No one wants to flip a 20lb tank upside down to unscrew six screws. CNC'd mounts on either side of the hull are simply flexed outward, and the entire upper hull is then pulled back to unseat a CNC'd toe up at the front. The result is that I can remove the upper hull in a single ~3 second motion. Eventually I'll put a QD loom so that the turret loom can be separated with one plug, also. HL's craftsmen hand adjusted the toe anchor for a smooth fit that removes the inconsistencies inherent in mating metal parts to existing molded surfaces. Alignment is important, and this step gets lots of attention.



Onboard charging was another must. A 2s 7000mAh battery is currently included, but a 2s 10,000 could easily fit, or 8.4v, 9.6v, or 11.1v. The onboard charging port and system On/Off switch is currently accessible under a hatch on the engine deck, although it's blocked by the bustle rack with the turret facing forward. I may relocate it to a hatch further aft eventually, but that would require a mold change so for now I just move the turret manually a few clicks to open the hatch door. We plan to add a status LED on the charge port interface. Note also the empty 3-wire port for a possible firmware upgrade port or other peripheral.

Removing the upper hull is quick and easy, and reveals the inner bits. Excuse the mess. As I said, it's a work in progress.

[Alpha]

The tank itself performs excellently on all terrain. The torsion bar suspension works extremely well, a noticeable improvement over the simplified mass production systems. It should be better, because it costs significantly more. I'm normally not the guy who adds "upgrades" just for the sake of saying they're in there, but torsion bar suspension is, to me, worth every penny.

Satisfied with the driving performance, I turn my attention to aesthetics. It's well known that Heng Long's Abrams doesn't include a non-skid coating, so I added my interpretation of one using Tamiya putty, Mr. Surfacer 1000, and several stiff brushes. This is a common technique used by armor modelers to depict different types of surface finishes. I'm not trying to be factory perfect, as most Abrams' coatings were not perfectly consistent, so I set a 45 minute timer and when it rang, I moved on. Tamiya makes a surfacing agent specifically for this type of non-skid surface, but I can't find it here in China, so I made do.



After a quick coat of primer, I cut out the doghouse doors with a hobby knife. A proper hobby saw would have been quicker, but overall I find Heng Long's plastic upper hull and turret to be really nice to work with. It's easy to cut, file, shape, sand, and weld with ABS glue.



I also cut out the port side sprocket guard, as seen in the photo below, just to break up the monotony of the side skirts, worked on a few details, then prepared for paint.

[Alpha]

Paint happened... fast forward...

I airbrushed the tank in NATO colors using AK Interactive's NATO Camo set for the Leopard 2. It's a sharp contrast compared to my desert Abrams, but not for long. To the right is one of the reference photos from which I am drawing inspiration. I have always been drawn to how the sand seems to be trying to return this NATO camo Abrams back to the more common desert sand paint scheme. It's a hybrid of both schemes! Before I go any further, let me say to my friends the rivet counters out there, I'm not going for a perfectly scale upper hull or a perfect replication of a single tank with this specific tank. Rather, I'm blending elements as I prefer.



While I know that eventually 90% of my weathering will be covered up by simulated sand/dust pigments and powders, I will still know it's there underneath. Additionally, I think that the secret to depth in scale modeling is layers, layers, layers. With that in mind, I begin with a series of washes that I'm testing from a factory here in China. Again I set a 60 minute timer and went as quickly as I could while still being deliberate. 11 different colored washes were used. I also used AMMO-by-Mig's "Streaking Grime"




Satisfied by the time the timer rang, I sealed everything with Tamiya clear. Note, I didn't apply the hairspray chipping technique because on an Abrams hull there isn't usually a lot of chipping, at least not the 3 layer kind that is benefited by the hairspray technique. The road wheels, however, are an entirely different project, which I will get to much later when I have another hour to spare!

[Alpha]

Next: Pigments! This is a surprisingly nuanced technique, that I haven't mastered. These are finely, finely ground pigments. So fine, in fact, that they can be airbrushed. For this tank, however, I apply them with a makeup applicator, using the brush end and the padded end. The brush blots and blends, while the pad separates and defines. I have several colors of these pigments --essentially expensive colored dirt-- but with the Abrams' color palette, I confined use to just eight.

Wanting to finish the rest of the chapter of my audiobook entitled "Winston Churchill: Walking With Destiny", I spent the remaining 40 minutes at this stage. Half of that time was spent on the "oil stains" on the front glacis from my reference photo. I will need to tidy this up with a "wet look" wash after this pigment stage, but it's important to lay down the base of the "oil" or whatever crud that is in the real tank's photo.



I've seen many Abrams, including the one in my inspiration reference photos, with duct taped/velcro along the turret. I used toothpick wrappers, abundant here in China with all the takeout food I order, to simulate the textured surface. It was quick, free, and will be neat knowing that I have toothpick wrappers disguised on my fancy pricey tank. Note the sags, also. I need to continue this effect up and around the main cannon and connect it to the other side. If anyone knows what that strapping is used for, please share!

[Alpha]

Subscribe to this thread and stay tuned for future updates!

FPV-enabled CITV
Functional APU
Beacon

[StormyDog1962]

Given most of us are also plastic modelers doing weathering and special effects will produce some great results.

[Alpha]

The Abrams' APU ("Auxiliary Power Unit") is mounted on the rear bustle rack of the Abrams' turret. I noticed that it was empty, and that it perfectly fit a 2s 350mAh battery from one of my XK Innovations micro gliders. I rigged a switch and a 7.4V-to-5V DC/DC converter, and my APU is actually functional! It provides 5V of power to a beacon or an FPV camera.

[RCjetdude]

The Abrams' APU ("Auxiliary Power Unit") is mounted on the rear bustle rack of the Abrams' turret. I noticed that it was empty, and that it perfectly fit a 2s 350mAh battery from one of my XK Innovations micro gliders. I rigged a switch and a 7.4V-to-5V DC/DC converter, and my APU is actually functional! It provides 5V of power to a beacon or an FPV camera.

Excellent idea! The Abrams is definitely my favorite and I am ready for a pre-order button with the whole shebang!

[Pilot.Vrf201]

Alpha,

Are you going to show how to add smoke and glow to the barrel?

Love what you are doing to the tank, keep it up!

[Davy101]

Alpha,
The velcro stripping along the front, sides and rear of the Abrams, if fact most US vehicular combat systems, is so crews can attach the I-MILES CVTESS (Instrument-able Multiple Integrated Laser Engagement System Combat Vehicle Tactical Engagement Simulation System) receivers to all sides of the vehicle. MILES is used in training to simulate direct fire engagements and the velcro retains receiver sensors that register hits. Often times, this velco is glued to the metal and is not removed after the exercise is over. The tank will also have a shot launcher attached to the bar above the main gun barrel. The launcher is loaded with a smoke pyrotechnic to simulate main gun fire.

[Alpha]

Davy101 Thank you for the knowledge, I appreciate the opportunity to learn! That's quite an acronym!

[Alpha]

Alpha,

Are you going to show how to add smoke and glow to the barrel?

Love what you are doing to the tank, keep it up!

Thanks! Yes, I plan to show more of the inside of the tank as time goes on. Currently though my limited weekly tanker time is filled working on another upcoming project. I'll create a separate thread for this in the coming week or two. Serious tankers will probably recognize where we're trying to drive Heng Long to in the future...

[Rubicon99]

Can’t wait to see these up close.

[Two tanks]

Very nice tank!!!

[Tankme]

Can anyone help me with my tank? I'm having issues

[Joeyd]

What is the lenght Of the abrams and challenger not including the barrell?

[Rubicon99]

Can anyone help me with my tank? I'm having issues

Would help to know what the issue are?

[Rubicon99]

What is the lenght Of the abrams and challenger not including the barrell?

I don’t have the exact measurements off hand but I do own both tanks. The Challenger hull is ~1 to 1.5cm longer with the rear fuel drums removed. With the fuel drums attached the Challengers length is ~ 4cm longer.

The Challenger 2 is easily the overall largest of the 1/16 Heng Long tanks.

[Joeyd]

Thank you..
been wanting for a long time to get back into tanks..I have a grandson and stepson that love then.. I am going to make some kind of Playfield in my yard... My tanks are the 1/6 stuart tank, bought it new at walmart. 21st century 1/9 tank, marui type 90 tank 1/24.. And hen long tiger 1/16 purchase all new,
I am will be adding a few more tanks. Tiger 2, I will get one or the other tanks mentioned in my post along with a all metal tiger. Almost forgot I have an abrams 1/ 35